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Topic Review (Newest First)
Yesterday 05:24 PM
Rodnit You got 'er Mike. Let the work begin....

I would get you those measurements if I wasn't for the most part bound to my easy chair due to a pinched nerve in my neck. Which reminds me, time for more traction....
Yesterday 04:13 PM
mikeb1
the beginning

I think I did this correct. Here are a couple pics of its current condition.

Again I would like to know if any on has an idea on how to get a template or measurements for the hood latch?
Thx in advance for any help.
Yesterday 02:50 PM
Rodnit Mike, looking forward to pix. You an either use a pic hosting site like Photobucket and upload the IMG file from the pix you transfer from your computer, that's what I mainly do. Or, when you create post, hit the Go Advanced button, then Manage Attachments and upload a pic from your computer like my example in this post.

Look forward to seeing it!
08-28-2014 07:41 PM
mikeb1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodnit View Post
Any updates Mike? Did you decide to buy it?


Well a decision has been made.....I purchased it a couple weeks ago and finally was able to get it on the trailer yesterday. Immediately I put my wheels on it so it looks better rolling around on the garage floor. Haha. I will get some pics up when I am able to figure out how.

I am missing one important part so far and that is the steel hood latch piece that the release assembly is put together on. I have all the hardware but dont have the square tubing. If anyone can get me some measurements on this I would be most grateful.

Thx for having interest.
08-24-2014 02:13 PM
Too Many Projects Look into Sanderson headers. The collector flange on the block huggers is very tight to steering components and engine mounts.

Scroll down to the bottom of the page for a drawing of the actual shorty header. This one is supposed to be good to 425hp.

http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sand...eader-Set.html
08-24-2014 01:09 PM
62restomod
headers

I found on my 34 that the block hugger type headers that dump straight down were the only ones that provide me with adequate ground clearance. The headers that dump to the rear would make the collectors the lowest point on the vehicle.

Bud
08-24-2014 12:57 PM
Rodnit They join straight down below the 2 center pipes which is behind the motor mounts. You can sorta see the one bolt in the pic. The other side is just in front of the starter......
08-24-2014 12:39 PM
daves 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodnit View Post
Hi Dave. Here's a photo I had on file. Don't know the manuf., but they're some kind of "hugger" headers. Which is nice because you can access the collectors thru the side if you need to change gaskets. Use copper...

do the 4 pipes join together by the motor mount or down and back by the ttrans or starter
08-24-2014 12:20 PM
Rodnit Hi Dave. Here's a photo I had on file. Don't know the manuf., but they're some kind of "hugger" headers. Which is nice because you can access the collectors thru the side if you need to change gaskets. Use copper...

08-24-2014 10:22 AM
daves 34 Can any one tell me the name of the headers used on the 1934 ford 3 window coupe street beast, I am looking for headers that has the collector down by the trans .
I have a chevy small block and want to build a 383 stroker but feel the headers that are on the car would not be as good.
Thank you
not sure if I put this in the right place in street beast lounge
07-30-2014 02:17 PM
Rodnit
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Hi Troy......you finally getting some sunshine over there ....

I bought an used Saginaw 4 speed for the GTO yesterday. That was the only drivetrain component I was missing to make it a "yard driver"... It was cheap enough at $300 to justify the increase in overall value of the car. Makes a big difference if they will drive on a trailer or transport truck. Now I need to get back on it and get it ready.
Oh yeah! Although storms are floating around today. A lot of shows have been on Saturdays and haven't been getting rained out. A good thing...

I had a Saginaw 4 speed in my '68. It was alright. At least you haven't given up on the "basket case"........ Forge ahead!
07-29-2014 12:35 PM
Too Many Projects
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodnit View Post
That makes it easy, I have 9"............

Thanks brickyard...........

Hi Mitch.......
Hi Troy......you finally getting some sunshine over there ....

I bought an used Saginaw 4 speed for the GTO yesterday. That was the only drivetrain component I was missing to make it a "yard driver"... It was cheap enough at $300 to justify the increase in overall value of the car. Makes a big difference if they will drive on a trailer or transport truck. Now I need to get back on it and get it ready.
07-29-2014 10:48 AM
Rodnit That makes it easy, I have 9"............

Thanks brickyard...........

Hi Mitch.......
07-29-2014 09:23 AM
Too Many Projects
Quote:
Originally Posted by brickyardboy View Post
I got that info on line from the Street Beast website before they bit the dust, so I'm not sure what the prices included. My car has an 8.8 differential, which was the common rear end that they featured in the kit. I think the 9" was an upgrade. Not sure where the casting # would be on the housing, but most will agree that the 9" was considered a bit stronger than the 8.8. I've included photos of both (first two are 9" and the second is 8.8). The 8.8 had a 10 bolt cover on the back of the housing, and the 9" carrier had a front entry, where you could remove the entire carrier to work on.
At least that's an easily identifiable difference. Some manufacturers axle housing changes were so subtle as to need casting numbers.

My neighbors kit car has a 9". We still don't know who's kit it is.
07-29-2014 09:02 AM
brickyardboy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodnit View Post
Thanks for the info brickyard. I've never seen a parts breakdown or options list. The $18k total price, was that minus engine, tranny and wheels? I didn't go line by line. Was that a basic build, or an upgrade? What year was that price?

I see 8.8 rears were common on these builds. I did some research on mine and could swear it's a standard 9", looking at the ribs. What's the physical difference between an 8.8 and 9"? Where would the casting number and date code be to verify it's a standard 9"? It does have the hump......

Thanks! Rodnit
I got that info on line from the Street Beast website before they bit the dust, so I'm not sure what the prices included. My car has an 8.8 differential, which was the common rear end that they featured in the kit. I think the 9" was an upgrade. Not sure where the casting # would be on the housing, but most will agree that the 9" was considered a bit stronger than the 8.8. I've included photos of both (first two are 9" and the second is 8.8). The 8.8 had a 10 bolt cover on the back of the housing, and the 9" carrier had a front entry, where you could remove the entire carrier to work on.
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