|06-20-2011 08:27 PM|
|Dana Barlow||Thanks,excatly info i was looking fore|
|05-01-2011 01:34 PM|
Well I tried out the Welting foot. It's a 5/8".
It worked perfectly the first time.!!! I tried various tension settings but fairly tight seemed the best. The seam is dead snug at the outside of the roll. Straight as can be. It didn't take very long at all to make both door windlaces. They look nice. I did a test fit on the car but I need just a little more trimming on the door frame so the windlace lays flatter. The fiberglas and wood bonding adhesive are not compatible with staples at all. They just flatten out. The windlace will have to be glued on and the ply-grip strips will need some #4 or #6 flathead sheetmetal screws about 3/8 or 1/2 inch long. I have some stainless ones ordered. It will be tedious to put all those little screws in. They will require pre-drilling or they will just bore a hole with no threads. Already tried it. I tried self drilling screws too but they don't work either.
I also got some headliner material to practice with. It's just a light gray with a soft foam backing. I had to adjust the tension again...looser so it doesn't gather the stuff up. It works good now. The seam is nice and tight and the material lays flat. Just a slight curve to the final product.
I think you said earlier that I won't need a listing on it as I will be stapling it to the roof bows rather than hanging the headliner on rods. I did find some material that has a little stretch to it that is pretty tough. It looks like it might strengthen the seam. Maybe it's not really necessary.
I did manage to sew my finger a week or so ago. For a small wound it sure did sting.!!! The needle just barely touched the finger bone then completed the stitch and pulled it tight then ripped it out...or I ripped it out yanking my finger back. ouch, dang that hurt. talk about bleed!!!
|04-20-2011 09:01 PM|
Great!! I can't wait to try it. I got 1/2" foam cord for the windlace today from Rochford. It's quite a big place. The foot should be here tomorrow.
I also finished a second set of roof bows with all the backets today.
|04-19-2011 11:11 PM|
|DanTwoLakes||No, you don't need any lubricant. The thread you are using should be bonded thread, which has it's own lubricant built in to run through the machine easier. Don't ever buy thread that isn't bonded. Your sewing machine can easily sew through 1/4" plywood, there's no carpet that will slow it down.|
|04-19-2011 08:48 PM|
I have a question to go along with the carpet tutorial.
My rod has some inexpensive carpet that I put in it with the idea that it would ultimately be replaced with something better.
Now that I have my own sewing machine I may as well practice putting some binding on it.
The carpet has a rubber like backing, not very heavy but it has a 'traction feel' is the best I can describe it. Now, will I have to use some kind of lubricant on the surface or the thread???
There is no doubt that the machine will sew it without even slowing down, I just am curious. The stuff cut pretty easily with a heavy scissors so I would think I could just plow into it.
Hot dog, my welting foot for windlace is on the way I should have it Friday.
Thanks for the help.
|01-20-2011 02:58 PM|
|DanTwoLakes||I totally agree. I knew they sold cut yardage, but had to call them and have somebody explain to me how to order from the web site. It's ridiculous that they have made it so confusing.|
|01-20-2011 10:53 AM|
Wow that website has to be the most confusing, hard-to-order-from website I've been to in a long time. I had to come back to your post like three times just to figure out how to get the damned prices for anything, and even then the "Essex" product wasn't showing up, after all their talk about how cool it is. Classic example of how a great business is going to go out of business for no other reason that there web site sucks so much.
It's hard to know just how stiff I need it to be. Obviously, if the carpet I buy from them is about as stiff as a thick towel, it will just bunch up on the floor or curl/ripple easily and won't lay flat. If it's a tiny bit too stiff, it won't contour itself to the various compound curves required for it to sit there with part of itself on top of the wheel well... Hmm...
|01-20-2011 09:18 AM|
I get it from one of my suppliers, but they only sell to upholstery shops. You don't really need the backing, but I have used generic flat rubber floor mats from Wal-Mart, cut them the shape I wanted and then glued on the carpet and did the binding. Almost any carpet that doesn't have a padding attached to the back will work, but thinner carpet under the nibbed backing works better.
You can get automotive grade carpet by the yard from www.accmats.com. 80/20 Loop carpet is standard on most older cars. It's hard to figure out how to order cut yardage from them. To do that online, click on "shop online" (You need to know which carpet you want to order ahead of time before you click on shop online.), then click on "select by item" (don't fill in the part about what vehicle you want the carpet for) and then click on "select yardage". If you want softer more pliable carpet, don't order it with the poly backing, that is a stiff plastic backing, although you may like that to make floor mats out of.
|01-20-2011 07:07 AM|
Yeah nice tutorial but...
Where in the world do you get that nibbed backing? Where do you get the carpet? What type of carpet do I buy that is flexible enough for automotive floormats?
|10-13-2007 07:43 AM|
Another great tutorial. I'll be doing this one fairly soon, when I start finishing my interior this Winter. We're finally picking the colors for my truck's new paint -- I should be getting it back in a few weeks (it's been 5 months in the body shop already).
|10-13-2007 06:35 AM|
Strangely enough, that's exactly where they go! I'm glad you like them.
|10-13-2007 05:18 AM|
|Dusty82||Excellent work, Dan! Here's another one for the tutorial folder. Thanks for posting this!|
|10-12-2007 08:09 PM|
Those look like they go in a 34 Ford 3 window coupe . Very nice work
|10-12-2007 08:05 PM|
|NEW INTERIORS||Great looking work Dan!!!!!!|
|10-12-2007 03:50 PM|
|DanTwoLakes||And here's the last of the binding pictures, and the finished product.|
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