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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-01-2011 07:21 PM
hduff
Quote:
Originally Posted by HVAC Phil
First off, i'm not adding the tank for extra air capacity. The main goal is to help remove moisture.
Try building and using this. Works very well to remove moisture.
http://route60garage.blogspot.com/20...anzinator.html
05-07-2011 08:21 AM
matts37chev
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
As long as the tank is rated to at least the same pressure as the main tank a relief valve is not necessary, the valve discharge rate has to exceed the pump CFM rating and tank volume doesn't matter. As for what you want it for that will work unless the compressor is too small, I would not add more than about 20% to the original volume and certainly no more than 25%. if the compressor is a large one with a 100% duty cycle this is not going to be nearly as critical. The cooling tank ("Thump tanks" is what we called them) should be plumbed into the system well downstream of the main tank for best results, plumbing in really close will largely negate the benefits. Then the "in" supply pipe should be near the bottom of the tank with the take-off point at the top, it is best if the air enters from the side near the bottom and not directly up from the bottom. In any case use ONLY existing fittings /ports on the tank and never attempt to weld extra ports to the tank, one of the catastrophic ruptures I saw was because of doing this. Basically never weld on a tank for any reason.
^^^^^^that pretty well covers it
05-07-2011 05:48 AM
oldred As long as the tank is rated to at least the same pressure as the main tank a relief valve is not necessary, the valve discharge rate has to exceed the pump CFM rating and tank volume doesn't matter. As for what you want it for that will work unless the compressor is too small, I would not add more than about 20% to the original volume and certainly no more than 25%. if the compressor is a large one with a 100% duty cycle this is not going to be nearly as critical. The cooling tank ("Thump tanks" is what we called them) should be plumbed into the system well downstream of the main tank for best results, plumbing in really close will largely negate the benefits. Then the "in" supply pipe should be near the bottom of the tank with the take-off point at the top, it is best if the air enters from the side near the bottom and not directly up from the bottom. In any case use ONLY existing fittings /ports on the tank and never attempt to weld extra ports to the tank, one of the catastrophic ruptures I saw was because of doing this. Basically never weld on a tank for any reason.
05-07-2011 05:21 AM
HVAC Phil
Adding compressor storage tank

First off, i'm not adding the tank for extra air capacity. The main goal is to help remove moisture. I have my old CH 26 gal tank i could use. What i'm looking for, is the proper way to plumb this into my system, while it being safe. Does the storage tank need a pop off valve? Anyone have a simple diagram to plumb it in?

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