|02-19-2013 03:25 PM|
|JeffB||And to quote Paul Harvey "And the rest of the story" And like posted above your first "contribution" to this site is to bash a business|
|02-19-2013 12:11 PM|
|327NUT||You know Greg, not taking sides or anything but I just called Tuff Dawg, the owner told me that if you are the man that put that engine in a boat then you were out of the warranty period. He also said that you sent them an email telling them that the engine blew up and you wanted a completely new engine.....is that true? First post "raw doggin" an engine builder? He's waiting for you to call him @ 1 (602) 395-0800|
|02-19-2013 12:02 PM|
Roller blocks that are setup and ready for roller go for more money among rebuilders. So they use flat cam older blocks with vortec heads and intake or blocks were not drilled for roller running gear.
Either way i agree if your going vortec atleast you should get a good cam setup. It does sound pretty lame to not get a roller setup.
Factory roller lifters are not good for high rpm engine. Flat cams will make more rpm than oem style rollers with stock lifters. If you going for 6500 rpm flat cam will out perform oem roller applications. Now once you go full retrofit roller you can get proper lifters and cams for any rpm range. Flat may still have some advantages but cant see them in a hopped up vortec.
|02-19-2013 05:43 AM|
Tuff Dawg Engines
Greg here - in Melbourne Australia.
Purchased a Tuff Dawg engine crate motor recently.
We ran it for about 30 hours then it let go (blew up) like I've never seen an engine let go before. Pistons shattered, bent conrods,etc.
Contacted Tuff Dawg several times to try and work out a repair or replacement or some solution.
After one short reply from them they have refused to reply to any form of contact. Lousy service.
So if youre thinking about a Tuff Dawg engine CHANGE YOUR MIND AND GO SOMEWHERE ELSE.
I'm happy for you to send them this message and see what reply you get. Maybe I'll get a reply too!
|05-13-2011 08:33 AM|
|05-12-2011 10:28 PM|
|327NUT||I was just on their website...they show the regular gray bottle of VR-1 dino oil and then they show a blue bottle of "Valvoline Racing Synthetic VR-1"....must be new.|
|05-12-2011 10:18 PM|
Unless Valvoline has aded a new product that I am not aware of, VR-1 is NOT synthetic. VR-1 is dino based racing oil with less detergent and high ZDDP. Synpower is their synthetic branding.
Edit: After checking it out, it looks like they DO offer a VR 1 branding in synthetic now. My mistake!
|05-12-2011 04:11 PM|
|JeffB||Heres a chance to protect that new engine,visit the Valvoline website there is a rebate you can download for a case of VR-1 Racing Synthetic,you must purchase it before 5/30/11.FREE is good|
|05-12-2011 03:19 PM|
Tuff Dawg Engines
I just ordered the Ford 302/280hp Turnkey. I have been reading the reviews recently and hoping i get what i payed for. This engine is a true Turnkey and i sure do hope all is well after a coulple of thousand miles. I will not be driving it hard but also want to have a little fun. Mostly just from the house to the shows. I should have never read the reviews
Have a good one!
|04-04-2011 06:17 PM|
|cool rockin daddy||
|04-04-2011 04:14 PM|
|327NUT||"Dino" is slang for petroleum.....from Amzoil website "That is why we recommend running the factory installed petroleum oil for the first 500 miles"|
|04-04-2011 12:47 PM|
|04-04-2011 11:13 AM|
|75chev4x4||Called these guys about there rebuilt l31 vortec engine and it's $2495 for this motor but they put a flat tappet cam in it, ***? For $2700 they build one with a roller cam, whats the point of the vortec besides the heads if they put a flat tappet cam in it?|
|04-04-2011 02:28 AM|
|327NUT||Just to clarify....do not do a break-in on a new engine or even just a cam/lifter change with any type of synthetic oil, Mobil 1 included. After the break-in procedure with a GOOD break-in oil drive the car 500 or so miles then drain the petroleum based oil and change the filter. Then if you wish you can fill with your choice of synthetic or a good grade petroleum oil with a high value of ZDDP. Even Amsoil recommends using a dino based oil for break-in.|
|04-04-2011 12:43 AM|
I've been hearing lots of problems from machine shops with using the 'new' SN oils in flat tappet engines. Research Mobil 1 and some other sites and they say if the ZDDP is over 800 you'll be fine. Moile 1 is over and most of the better synthetics. Couldn't find the spec on Penz or Castrol. Most that are real high ZDDP say 'off road use'. They mess up the street rodders gas now their oil...What gives?? I'm using Mobil1..it's also recommended for flat tappet Viper.
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|