|05-16-2011 11:25 AM|
|freethinker52||i use a jack too. i remove the back wheels and put a jack under the rear end. then i jack it way up and get a couple of coats of base under the rockers. then let it way down to paint the top.|
|05-16-2011 11:20 AM|
|67Elcamino||Im short and what Ive done before was jack one side of the car up and quickly move jack to opposite end to do the other side.|
|05-16-2011 10:43 AM|
|05-16-2011 10:20 AM|
I've watched that video before. He's kinda cheating with two sprayers and the car disassembled. I've read many times about trying to keep a wet edge so I am a little paranoid about it. Like when you paint the top of a car that you can't completely reach across like mine, what is the right way? In this video he is able to reach all the way across the car and get to the other side so it isn't an issue.
|05-16-2011 08:45 AM|
here is a video:
|05-16-2011 08:26 AM|
ok watching this video i think you need gun technique practice. i see you going over down and back without ever releasing the trigger. i think you should practice going straight across and off the fender concentrating on your speed,distance and overlap. the way you are doing it some spots get a much heavier application. if you dont release or go off the fender at the end of the stroke for that second when you stop,go down and switch direction you will be overloading that spot.
you should also be doing the leading edge of the fender and the wheel well lip and other hidden spots first.
|05-15-2011 06:23 PM|
Looking good to start..some advice would be to just sand the fisheyes(that came from under the base) half way down. They are "sealed" now and won't reappear if you just sand them level not all the way..
Check this tube to see that you can take more time, relax and dust on the base and kinda even build with the base color. It should not be shiny at all and can even be a little rough...
Not to sand before clear ...
|05-15-2011 05:51 PM|
Pro spray is some of the best out there for the money but I've never used it.just folow the mixing ratio on the can. Dont worry about how it looks as your spraying ...since theres no metallics it's even easier all you have to worry about is your 50% overlap while spraying dont look at it from the side while your spraying.look straight at it at 90 degrees and your eyes should follow the gun...looking at your overlap ,nothing else.The base flatens out on its own as it dries...
In general,normally I dont ever touch the base when the last coat is done and dont even use a tack rag before I clear because it disturbs the metallics...being it's a solid color you might be able to get away with it but I wouldnt try it.you CAN sand between coats for dirt or trash ,someone else that uses this brand would be better suited to answear that. But tack the car and the paper with a blower before every coat,every coat but the last..
Its a little late now but what you should have used is prosprays SS then wet sand when its dry with 600 then clear SS sprays like dream compared to base.just spray it like you want it to look....
Those finish line guns come with many tips and it gets confusing....use the 1.4 for the base and clear ,the last guy I helped had a brand new one,when I went over I couldnt figure out why he was having trouble until I noticed he had the 1.7 tip ...
|05-15-2011 05:43 PM|
dont worry about orange peel in base coat the main aim is an even and consistant finish. normally base coat would just be tack ragged between coats and clear coats but i have rubbed the odd bit of dirt out of base coat. but you will need some serious blocking on those runs.
is it solvent or waterbased paint?
|05-15-2011 05:42 PM|
Nice video and I will say you are doing fine on laying the basecoat.
You are using a top notch base so you can wet sand it and since the sides are not covering good, if me I would probably just spray a couple more coats on the sides and hold the gun like we talked, six inches away and fan as wide as you can get it where the center is not blowing out.
Then while you are waiting for more paint, you can do what wet sanding you need so smooth the runs and trash out, getting ready for what we hope one last coat.
Also when you get to the sides, it looks like you need about 3-5 more pounds of air pressure, that will take care of the runs with a 50-70% overlap.
Forget the filter work, that dirt came from end of hose, car crease but most likely the masking paper build up.
Put a fresh piece of paper over the dirty masking paper, you will also do this before you clear.
|05-15-2011 05:34 PM|
I just watched your video of you painting the right front fender. You went up and over the wheel well 3 times in the same area. Then you dropped down onto the area behind the wheelwell and barely had any overlap at all.
You need to concentrate on getting equal overlap and number of passes to get a consistant coverage.
It will help with runs , you won't have 3 times the material in one area as another.
I don't go up and over a wheel opening, I travel straight across it.
I spray the lip of the wheel well with the gun aimed at the lip and do follow its up and over contour , but onlyu to get material on the lip.
Back in the day I was learning to shoot Candy Apple lime gold and found that long straight passes keeping an equal distance from the body contours, but staying on a horizontal plane helped with having even coverage.
|05-15-2011 05:15 PM|
|xpsyclonex2002||The color I am spraying is "Panther Pink", the mopar color from 1970. It's solid so no metallics to worry about. I don't think the color is coming through in the video very well.|
|05-15-2011 05:09 PM|
I am using Prospray. I may have misunderstood what the guy at SPI was saying. He told me that sometimes you can slightly over reduce if you are having troubles adjusting the gun. If it was just done for diagnostic purposes only, we didn't discuss that.
Watching the paint lay down could very well be a problem for me. I am overly concerned that the paint will orange peel or be course from being too thin. I am expecting the paint to look like float glass after every coat. I've never done it before so I don't have a frame of reference what the coats should look like.
Another question. Do you wet sand the base coat at all before clear coating?
|05-15-2011 04:54 PM|
I doubt it's waterbase. And I've never seen a waterbase that is "thin" compared to solvent.
Keep in mind, red is incredibly transparent. So, dont think you are putting it on to thin if you can still see through it after a couple of coats. I've had to put 6 + coats to get proper hiding with red's before.
|05-15-2011 03:08 PM|
|deadbodyman||If thats a water base you should ignore everything I said ,I've never used it and the same rules dont apply (I dont think)|
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