|05-18-2011 02:40 PM|
|cobalt327||On machined surfaces I always use razor blades and a can of carb spray or lacquer thinner/acetone and a rag to follow up with.|
|05-18-2011 02:34 PM|
Very sharp gasket scraper, or fresh single edge razor blades. With a final buffing by hand, using a sponge block of sand paper. This procedure needs to be done lightly, with just enough pressure to remove material, not the sand from the block, checking frequently for a clean surface.
There is no 'quick and easy' way to do this.
The extra time spent equals less problems, or 'come backs'.
|05-18-2011 02:18 PM|
What would u guys consider or recommend, an alternative method for cleaning surfaces that would be both safer and time efficient?
|05-17-2011 08:47 PM|
After a bit of research, I'm satisfied that I understand why wear from the abrasive disc (or anything else) happens.
So carry on gentlemen...
|05-17-2011 05:01 PM|
These fine particles, and the material cleaned will score the cylinder walls, and scratch the rings sealing edge. Much like a cylinder hone is made to do, to seat the rings.
That being said, is like honing a block with 800 grit stones. These fine particles from 800 grit, if not cleaned properly, will stay suspended in the oiling system, and take out the softer material made crankshaft, and engine bearings. No filter system made can remove these fine particles from the oil. At least none that I know of.
|05-17-2011 12:13 PM|
Particulates finer than what the filter media catches are constantly circulating through an engine. Steel, aluminum, copper alloys, carbon, dirt, etc. Filters do not catch everything, as we all know- Wix automotive oil filters catch contaminant particles larger than 25 microns, for example. If the filter were to be fine enough to catch everything, the pressure required to get oil through it would be high, and the filter would clog sooner w/the possibility of it bypassing unfiltered oil back through the engine to keep it from starving the bearings.
What I'm curious about is what makes the sub-25 micron material that the discs are made of cause bearings to fail, when the other particulates are able to pass through the bearing clearances w/o a problem.
|05-17-2011 11:42 AM|
|1ownerT||I've installed a couple of different aftermarket engines, on the info provided, they both said they will void any warranty if abrasive disc are used on parts that transfer from the old engine to the new.|
|05-17-2011 09:55 AM|
|T-bucket23||Don't have an explanation, don't know if the filters were so bad they were bypassing or even what they had for filters. I am only letting you know what was found. Abrasive material that was of the type used in the cleaning disks. Bearings were a mess on the one we took apart|
|05-17-2011 09:54 AM|
|05-17-2011 09:11 AM|
|cobalt327||Not arguing w/anyone, but it would seem to me that the particles that are large enough for the filter medium to filter out should leave only particles small enough to easily pass through the oil clearances of the bearings.|
|05-17-2011 09:03 AM|
|T-bucket23||Sent oil out to be evaluated. All instances found silicates (abrasives) in the oil. These were not jobs we originally did. We saw them after intakes had been done and original shop said it could not be anything they did.|
|05-17-2011 07:58 AM|
How did u realize the discs was the cause of youre engine failures? Did u tear one down and find sediment on the bearings and oil passages? Just curious
|05-17-2011 07:53 AM|
|05-17-2011 07:21 AM|
Thanks for the replys guys. Im 100% on the rod noise as it sounds likes it gonna come through the side of the block. Regarding the brown sanding discs, Ive never heard of these causing problems as long as u cleaned up afterwards and we do use these little 2" discs regularly. However, I will probably find something else to use then since I don't wanna take any chances. It is a very big possibility that he could have dropped something in the motor or left something in there like rags or something like that. It wouldnt surprise me it the intake isnt sealed very good as he seems inexperienced with this kind of procedure but its not a spark knock or detonation. Timing was a couple of teeth off which has been corrected. This guy is no longer working for me since he was caught using drugs in the bathroom which explained the numerous trips to the bathroom ha ha. I figure the motor is pretty much trashed so I dont think Im gonna tear it back down since time is money and since I have to provide a new motor anyways(about 1200).
|05-16-2011 07:33 PM|
Could be timing related. That one should be set at 0 degrees, and electronically adjusted with a scan tool. The engine rpm needs to be raised/goosed above 2000-2500 rpm, then let idle, for each distributor movement/timing adjustment, until it is set at 0 degrees timing (on the scan tool).
Hope this helps.
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|