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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-13-2011 12:18 PM
Coolball Murphy's law is in effect LOL! Off topic but the way things have been in the last few weeks has been indescribable. I spent an entire morning last week bailing buckets of water in our living room after the roofers ripped off our roof and then it rained for 3 days straight. What a nightmare!

Back on track, I think everything is fine on this setup but it's only a starting point for my experience to look back on and compare it to. The backlash turned out in spec and the pattern is the best I could get it to. I tore down and reset with different shims at least 20 times just to try and get a feel for the work.

So if I wasn't setting the preload on the pinion or carrier (which I read you can't really determine on the carrier anyway) there is always going to be that initial thought of hesitation until it's in the car and tested and good to go,, but I'm confident under the circumstances it's as good as I could get it.
06-13-2011 11:55 AM
Originally Posted by Coolball
Hope I didn't screw this up....
LOL I understand your apprehension to a point, but where do you think there's a problem? Or are you talkin' Murphy's law here...
06-13-2011 11:38 AM
Coolball Not adjustable pinion nut as I stated, I was thinking of the preload shim type design. Whether or not it uses a crush sleeve or solid spacer is beyond my knowledge.

Sounds like I hosed the bearing preload process. Err, I put the same amount of torque on the pinion nut each time I set up but it sounds like maybe I had it too loose. I tightened it until the pinion was snug and resistance was felt while turning.

When I did final install, I installed the new bearings and crushed the new sleeve to 200 ft lb as required. It slightly moved the coast side pattern a bit towards the toe but not much from where is is in the above photos. It's pretty much a match to the used pattern in the gears.

It also ended up opening up the final backlash to .095'' which is in spec.

Hope I didn't screw this up....
06-13-2011 11:18 AM
prostreet6t9 ALL Differentials will have a crush sleeve or a solid spacer to set the pinion brg preload!!! There is NO such thing as a "adjustable pinion nut".

You NEED to keep all your preloads and backlash correct and the same during set up.

During set up I will leave the crush sleeve and pinion seal out and set the preload with the pinion nut only. When the setup is complete I will pull it apart 1 last time using the crush sleeve and seal.
06-12-2011 09:31 AM
Coolball That's the same theory I have read and this setup does use a crush sleeve versus an adjustable pinion nut. Everything I have read also says after torquing the crush sleeve to recheck the backlash and pattern as it might change too. Guess I will go for it and see what happens
06-12-2011 09:24 AM
HalfOunce In theory the pinion nut should not change the gear pattern at all, only the preload of the bearings. It uses the crush sleeve to do this as well as hold things where they need to be. So the nut wont really be torqued. Just put red lock tight and set to the correct bearing preload. Differentials without a crush sleeve use torque pinion nut.
06-12-2011 09:06 AM
Coolball The pinion nut isn't torqued yet. I was thinking not only will that procedure preload the bearings yes but also open the backlash up those .002'' ideally from the compression of the bearings. I have been torquing the bearing caps on the carrier during setup.

I loaned out the proper torque wrench from the parts house so I can finish this up. Just need to know if the pattern is agreeable? It is pretty centered on both sides with the coast side a little towards the heel which I have read is acceptable.
06-12-2011 08:51 AM
HalfOunce Not sure what you mean by "it's not torqued yet" ...The pinion not being torqued will only change the preload of the pinion bearings. However if the carrier is not torqued this will change the backlash and pattern.. you always want to make sure the carrier is torqued during setup.
06-11-2011 12:44 AM
Coolball Thanks for helping out,, whew what a long process!

After many tries I ended up using all the original shims from the 3.42 set as they came out of the donor housing. Back lash is at around .006,, but it's not torqued yet so I assume that will open up a little correct?

How does this look?
06-10-2011 04:58 PM
prostreet6t9 Either one will get you within .010 most times. I would use the shims from the "housing" being used. But then again your depending on the set up being correct if any body has been in there. By that pattern he's pretty close now,just need to see if the coast will come down a little.
06-10-2011 04:11 PM
Originally Posted by Coolball
It's a GM 10 bolt and I switched the ring and pinion to a 3.42 set of gears and used the same shims to start.
Using the original shims that were correct w/the old R&P are a starting point, but you'd like to start out w/the same shims that were used w/the same R&P you are installing. In other words, if you have the shims that were used w/the 3.42 gears, that is what you want to start with, or the equivalent new shims.
06-10-2011 02:50 PM
prostreet6t9 Keep in mind that since your working with a "used" set you may not get the "perfect" Pattern. If you could get that coast to come down a little with the drive still looking good I'd run it.
06-10-2011 02:13 PM
gearman50 coolball sounds like prostreet is giving you good feedback,ill step out for now. have a nice day
06-10-2011 01:41 PM
prostreet6t9 I thought your backlash was "Loose" with that pattern. Backlash should be 8 to 10. Always keep your backlash consistent during the set up.
06-10-2011 01:16 PM
lmsport .008-.012"
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