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Topic Review (Newest First)
12-19-2011 09:28 PM
Rat Rod Don I did not know you could run a HEI dizzy with a MSD 6-AL box???????

Seems like a mismatch of components.

Don
12-19-2011 04:28 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by pukas84
Any advice? Thanks
Adjusting the valves w/the engine running at an idle is fine to do if the cam is broken in already. But one of the most important things when breaking in the cam and lifters is to not allow the engine to idle. Even a short amount of idling can cause grief.

Adjusting the lifter preload (or valve lash if a solid lifter) is done before the engine is started for the first time if the cam is new, especially. The timing is set statically to have enough advance to allow for an easy start up, then the timing can be set closer to where it needs to be while the engine runs for the first 20-25 minutes at >/=2000 RPM, varying the engine speed all the while. Insufficient ignition advance can cause the engine to run hot, and while it can be shut down during the break in procedure, it's generally better to complete the cam break in during one session if possible.

HERE is a page on cam break in.

HERE is a page on adjusting hydraulic lifters w/the engine off.

HERE is a list of valve train points to check.
12-19-2011 03:48 PM
oldbogie
Quote:
Originally Posted by pukas84
Any advice? Thanks
If you can adjust them with the motor running all the better, but it's usually messy with oil going everywhere. Back 'em out one at a time till it ticks, then bring it to where it doesn't thick, then add a quarter turn. Keep the engine running about 2000 RPM for half an hour, do not let it overheat use a house fan to blow air into the radiator if necessary.

An old trick was to use an old rocker cover cut about in half to catch the oil coming out the push rod end of the rocker, this helps a lot but certainly not completely. You may want to cover the exhaust with aluminum foil to reduce the smoke and fire hazard from oil getting on the exhaust.

Bogie
12-18-2011 04:06 PM
southernculture Another thing to add is that a 305's harmonic balancer is at tdc at the 12 oclock position where a 350 is at 2 ish.
07-31-2011 09:32 PM
pukas84
bump

Quote:
Originally Posted by pukas84
Finally got motor to run on its own. Again my timing seems a little off. But question: my valves needs to be adjusted again. Is it better to adjust them while the car is running? I think it is a little easier, don't have to take out spark plugs, etc. Do I readjust the valves before I start breaking in the cam, of after. Thanks.
Any advice? Thanks
07-25-2011 12:03 AM
pukas84
Finally

Finally got motor to run on its own. Again my timing seems a little off. But question: my valves needs to be adjusted again. Is it better to adjust them while the car is running? I think it is a little easier, don't have to take out spark plugs, etc. Do I readjust the valves before I start breaking in the cam, of after. Thanks.
07-23-2011 02:03 PM
jerryvarnell Yea take the #1 spark plug out put the plug wire back on the spark plug, leave the key on so it has power, hold the dizzy in one hand and hold the spark plug against the lip of the head. You might have to clean the oil n gunk off it for a good arc. Turn the distributor until you see it spark against the head. When I did mine I had to turn it very sharply for it to spark, so turn it in short little jerks and then set the dizzy in the place it's at when it sparks.

After that put your screw driver in the plug hole n do what mike said, then time it with a timing light and set the valve lash.

Valve lash is set after torqueing the springs until you can almost turn the push rods, when they won't wiggle anymore give it another 1 to 1 half turn. How many turns is determined by the set valve lash. Get a haynes rebuild book on your engine from your local auto parts store. Torque specs are also in those books .
07-21-2011 04:11 AM
mike 96 ws6
Quote:
Originally Posted by pukas84
Got a used 350 2 bolt and rebuilt it, new pistons, vortec heads, cams,
There's only 1 cam in that motor. What lift/duration is this cam?

Other than improper assembly such as your intake gasket mis-alignment, I suspect you may have a cam timing or valve adjustment issue.
I suggest the following:

(For a stock/mild aftermarket duration/lift hydraulic cam profile engine only)

1- Remove valve covers, loosen all rocker arms past ".000" clearance, and remove #1 spark plug.

2- Insert a long thin object such as a drinking straw (or screwdriver if you be carefull) into the #1 spark plug hole in order to monitor #1 piston physical position within the cylinder.

3- While keeping the straw/screwdriver from binding within the motor, manually turn crankshaft in the normal operating direction (CW viewing from the front-to-rear) until #1 piston is at top dead center after exhaust stoke.
At this exact point, the #1 exhaust valve should have just closed and #1 intake valve just starts to open)(The term for this position will be referred to as "rocking" for the remainder of these instructions).

Note: When locating the #1 piston to top dead center, if the piston is at top dead center on compression stroke the rocker arms will not be "rocking" and you'll need to rotate the crankshaft another full turn (360 degrees) in order to get the rocker arms in the correct position.

Important!!! The exhaust valve should have just finished closing and the intake valve just starting to open when the piston is at exactly top dead center. If not, your camshaft timing is set incorrectly.

If cam timing is correct, set the distributor rotor position to exactly 180 degrees opposite of #1 plug wire position and temporarily tighten the distributor (which will now have the rotor pointing to #6 on the distributor cap (for your 350 small block chevy motor)

4- Adjust #6 intake and exhaust rocker arms to "0" clearance + 1/4 turn for hydraulic lifters.

5- Next: Looking at #8 rocker arms, turn crankshaft until #8 exhaust valve just closes and #8 intake valve starts to open (rocking). At this point, adjust #5 rocker arms to "0" clearance + 1/4 turn.

6- Next: Looking at #4 rocker arms, turn crankshaft until #4 exhaust valve just closes and #4 intake valve starts to open (rocking). At this point adjust #7 rocker arms.

7- Same procedure with #3 rocker arms "rocking" and adjust #2 rocker arms

8- #6 rocker arms rocking, adjust #1 rocker arms

9- #5 rocker arms rocking, adjust #8 rocker arms

10- #7 rocker arms rocking, adjust #4 rocker arms

11- #2 rocker arms rocking, adjust #3 rocker arms

12- Now you'll need to loosen the distributor housing and turn '~10' degrees counter clockwise in order for the base timing to be close to spec. (a timing light may be needed to set correct base timing later according to specs for your motor/application).

13- Replace valve covers and re-install #1 spark plug

14- Crank the engine and run at ~ 1500-2000 RPM until hydraulic lifters adjust. (the motor may miss or the valve train may rattle (or both) upon start-up until the lifters adjust. Give it ~ 1-2 minutes for this to take place).

Hope this helps.

Mike
07-21-2011 01:14 AM
mike 96 ws6
Quote:
Originally Posted by delawarebill
is the carb "CHROMED"????? if so i think u may be buy'n a new one... a friend had similar problems and found out the chromer screwed up... $300 later it runs fine..
I doubt a chrome carb is his problem but I guess it's possible (Not very!!!).
07-21-2011 12:16 AM
pukas84 So I moved the plug wires one terminal counter clockwise and engine started up. I had to keep on giving it the gas to keep it running. if I let off the gas the engine dies. Is this now an idle problem with the carb? Can I leave the plug wires like this or do you recommend me to retime it?
07-20-2011 09:33 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by pukas84
This sounds like a good idea. If this works then I will redo the timing. I hope it works.
Oh, you will be retiming it, of that I can assure you. One terminal difference on the cap = 45º at the distributor, which is 90º at the crankshaft.
07-20-2011 09:27 PM
pukas84
Quote:
Originally Posted by delawarebill
for a quickie, u can move all your plug wire one slot in the direction u move the dizzy and that will give u more movement to play with.. u can leave them there or pull the dizzy and reinsert to alin again.
This sounds like a good idea. If this works then I will redo the timing. I hope it works.
07-20-2011 01:14 PM
mseifried Wouldn’t / Couldn’t you pull the number 1 plug and use a piston stopper / feeler to get the piston to TDC and then check make sure the distributer rotor is also pointing at the number 1 position?
07-20-2011 06:36 AM
delawarebill
bad idle

for a quickie, u can move all your plug wire one slot in the direction u move the dizzy and that will give u more movement to play with.. u can leave them there or pull the dizzy and reinsert to alin again.
07-19-2011 12:59 PM
pukas84
Quote:
Originally Posted by delawarebill
a slipped gasket thats leaking will give u a idle problem.. very lean in a few cyl's. looks like u really need to pull it and replace it. try some rtv blue around the intake/head areas, just put some one a smear it around with your finger,don't need alot.
Took off the intake and yes one of the gaskets slipped. Changed it out and now it sounds a lot better. Problem is I think my timing is still a little off. If I turn my distributor counter clockwise as far as it can go, it starts but still a little rough.
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