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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-12-2011 09:29 AM
99 to Life I would check your vacuum. I am having some new problems with my sbc 355 as I am having some vaccum issues now. I was running about 18" steady and power brakes worked fine. 7" booster, dual cyclinder with prop valve. Disc brakes front, drum rear. Stopped fine. Now I'm running about 15" of vac and there is virtually no power brakes, they are really stiff, but it does stop.

I would get vac gauge and see where you are at. I have mine connected to the manifold. Does the engine run ok, idle fine, have good response. No bogging etc.
07-08-2011 09:44 PM
27Tall T
Fatman says....

Answer to the first question about rear tires.....225x75x15. I know that really large tires would play havoc with the system, but I don't think this is the case. Second question answered is that Fatman said that there are only 2 residual valves in their system and no proportioning or metering valves of any kind. They also indicated that the booster may be the problem, but I would have to troubleshoot the system as it may be a combination of several things. Since they have been making the frames they have changed a lot of their technology, such as different types of MC, boosters, etc.... Progress! Thanks for the recommended reading material, truly interesting!
07-08-2011 07:55 PM
pepi [QUOTE= CHILD And you STILL are too interested in me - panties - makes me wonder if you are really ..... nah, not our Pepi. The consummate "expert" in my doings [/QUOTE]

I would suggest that you not flatter yourself .
07-08-2011 06:35 PM
454 Rattler What did Fatman tell you ?

Are you using huge tires on the rear ?


454 RATTLER
07-08-2011 01:11 PM
T-bucket23 You may also want to be sure they are in the proper direction in the lines
07-08-2011 11:43 AM
unix Residual valves are just check valves, there purpose is to help the pads and brake shoes stay close to the rotors and drums.

Instead of me smoking the keyboard have a read here;
http://www.mpbrakes.com/technical-su...igurations.cfm

you should be able to find the answers you are seeking. Brakes are a simple hydraulic system and power brakes just have the added benefit of vac assist.
happy reading..,
07-08-2011 07:00 AM
27Tall T
Residual bad?

Have been pondering this situation over and over and am wondering if the residual is bad? If I pound the brakes hard and the rears do not lock up, is it the residual valves fault? If there were no residuals in the system and no proportioning valve either then wouldn't the fronts brake last and the fronts first. I tried a hard brake situation and the rears did not lock up! Been researching all info. on this and there are so many conflicting reports. Some say you don't need residuals if the MC is on the firewall, but do when the MC is lowest. Others say the contrary. Some say you don't need a proportioning valve when running residuals, others say you do. Still others say don't use an adjustable proportioning valve, use a stock GM. Do you need residuals if you have just a proportioning valve, be it adjustable or non-adjustable? Where is the middle of the line in all this research and what will guarantee to work?
07-08-2011 06:23 AM
T-bucket23 Pull the master off the booster, start the car and see if the pedal moves freely. If it doesn't the booster is bad.
07-08-2011 04:24 AM
Irelands child
Quote:
Originally Posted by pepi
Tisk, tisk irelands CHILD has his panties in a wad ........... again.

LOL

So sorry I should read every word you post twice so as to not miss such relevant pertinent all encompassing information, from a hotrodders.com hotrod expert.

Now the question am I serious?
And you STILL are too interested in me - panties - makes me wonder if you are really ..... nah, not our Pepi. The consummate "expert" in my doings
07-07-2011 08:15 PM
pepi Tisk, tisk irelands CHILD has his panties in a wad ........... again.

LOL

So sorry I should read every word you post twice so as to not miss such relevant pertinent all encompassing information, from a hotrodders.com hotrod expert.

Now the question am I serious?
07-07-2011 04:53 AM
Irelands child You sure as heck didn't read my post #9 !!!!!!!!!
07-06-2011 10:48 PM
aosborn
Quote:
Originally Posted by 27Tall T
I've never heard of this procedure. Is it something that is applicable to Wilwood pads only or is this a recommended procedure for all disc brake pads? Also is it possible that my disc pads are too hard for this application? In the past they used to sell different grades of pads (soft and hard - economy and heavy duty) and I wonder if this still is a practise today.
Bedding pads used to be common on racing brake pads and less so for street cars. No street car pads that I am aware of anymore require being bedded in. Wilwood's may need to be because that is a racing brakes company, but I doubt that is the problem. "Green" pads (before being bedded in) do have poorer stopping performance, but not to the point that it takes both feet to stop the car from highway speeds. There are many different techniques to bed in pads, but most call for several medium fast stops followed by several high speed stops just to the point of lock up and then let them cool completely. It doesn' cost anything but fuel and pad material to do it, so give it a shot and then let us know how it came out. Just give yourself plenty of run-off room in the process.

Yes, there are different pad materials and compounds. Organics tend to be soft, semi-metallic are more aggressive, and carbon tend to be harder yet, but some of them work very well cold (amazing stuff!). Many race pads don't start to work well until they get up to temperature so consequently are not typically the best for street driving.

Andy
07-06-2011 09:27 PM
27Tall T
Bedding the Pads?

I've never heard of this procedure. Is it something that is applicable to Wilwood pads only or is this a recommended procedure for all disc brake pads? Also is it possible that my disc pads are too hard for this application? In the past they used to sell different grades of pads (soft and hard - economy and heavy duty) and I wonder if this still is a practise today.
07-06-2011 08:16 PM
pepi Just a thought, doing a little reading of your post 6, you say new. it may very well be that the pads need to be bed. It is a common practice. Said the booster was checked out and working, that is pretty much all there is to hard brakes. They built it, and most likely has parts that match, not familiar with the company so I give them the benefit of the doubt.

http://www.wilwood.com/TechTip/TechPadBedTip.aspx
07-06-2011 07:32 PM
pepi
Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
Brakes!!! I have Wilwood 4 wheel discs. They were terrible to the point of being frightening until I had gone through 4-5 complete break in cycles as described by Wilwood's instructions. Since that break in, they are probably about as good as any car I've ever owned. I'm not a fan of that so called metering valve(hold off valve), preferring a straight proportioning valve on the rear brakes plus the two residual valves(assuming the MC is below the floorboards).

Dave W

Did you bed the pads or just drive them out of the box?
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