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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-19-2011 05:10 PM
LATECH
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac88
So basically, I need to change out the distributor with one not needing the EEC? I'm going to post some pictures of what I'm trying to sort through. I just want to get the car running so I can get it to a shop and let someone go through all this wiring and tell me what's what.
Thats the worst, most cobbled, unproffesional looking abortion I have seen yet. I wish I could drop by for an hour or two, I would love to straighten that mess out.I think your house is a bit of a drive though LOL
07-19-2011 05:04 PM
LATECH Dont forget the ignition module (box)
07-19-2011 03:57 PM
LATECH Get the single vac dizzy, and a new coil
I saw where napa sells the resistor wire you will need, you could also use a ceramic ballast resistor.
07-19-2011 01:21 PM
Mac88
Duraspark

No luck at the pull yard. I'm going to autozone to buy one now. I know I need the steel gear, but does it make a difference whether I get one vac or two? Should I still buy a coil, or just use the factory coil that's on the car now?
07-18-2011 07:40 PM
Mac88
Re

latech
I sent you a pm
07-18-2011 07:26 PM
LATECH I have done conversions like this many times, I allways have a big pile of wires left over.
I am doing a dodge dakota right now, it's looking good, only have to weave the cooling fan setup in the loom and its time to tape it up, then Cover it with a convoluted wrap.
I'll keep an eye on your progress
07-18-2011 07:22 PM
LATECH This might help:
http://www.webpages.charter.net/1bad6t/duraspark.html

Arrrrgh linkie no workie.
Just google duraspark 2 and youll get a buttload of info
07-18-2011 07:19 PM
LATECH Go to the u pull it yard and get the complete dura spark 2 system off of a 76-77 ish 5.0 . The dizzy will have the vacuum can and the module will have a blue grommet. Get the coil and bracket too.Look the harness over well, most of the duraspark is pretty easy to see. The only place you should need to clip it will be at the red wire for the power from the ignition, clip it on the side closest to the ignition switch( keeping the connector intact) as you will need the white wire to hook to the starter solenoid for the Ignition bypass(during starting).
You can power it with the output from the EEC 4 relay and from the correct starter solenoid.
If you are running a msd then follow there instructions using the output wire from the EEC 4 relay (blue w/red) for the white wire on the msd box (ignition switch on/off circuit)
Sounds like you have a fuel pump on the motor so ignore fule pump wiring , change the sending unit to a non efi sender to eliminate the fuel pump being there as it can cause a starvation problem.
07-18-2011 02:54 PM
Mac88
Re

I went down to autozone and picked up a new ignition switch. Its amazing how much simplier everything looks in there now without all those wirres and toggles. Now I have to figure out this distributor. Is there a specific vacuum or mechanical distributor I need to look for, or will any 302 distributor work?
07-18-2011 01:33 PM
Mac88
Re

Thanks! I'm learning as I go, and I'm always looking to save money.
07-18-2011 01:31 PM
RippinRon got to autozones website and join and you can find repair guides and wiring diagrams. Break it down to what you need, ignition etc. Save yourself some money and figure it out.
07-18-2011 01:02 PM
Mac88 So basically, I need to change out the distributor with one not needing the EEC? I'm going to post some pictures of what I'm trying to sort through. I just want to get the car running so I can get it to a shop and let someone go through all this wiring and tell me what's what.
07-18-2011 12:55 PM
RippinRon The EEC harness is separate from the the rest. It has three parts the main, the injector and 02 sensor section. The original distributor controls the timing with the eec. The fuel pump is controlled with the eec but goes through the oil pressure switch and only stays running with oil pressure.
07-18-2011 12:28 PM
Mac88
Re

88 Mustang GT
I bought the car from someone who started working on it and stopped. He was running a carb, had toggle swith ignition, push button start, etc., but wires are everywhere. There was a MSD box half way connected, he said there was a electric fuel pump back there, just not connected. So I completely removed the harness to clean up the engine bay a little. The plan was to switch to a 351W later this year anyways, but I still want the car running, in the event i try to sell the 302. Any advice on how to started cleaning up this wiring nightmare?
07-18-2011 12:23 PM
RippinRon What are you working on?
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