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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-31-2011 03:28 AM
madmaxx886 so I think I found the problem. I have a dual point distributor and one of the points is pretty worn out. I took the distributor out and with the key on I had full power all the way to the coil output. I have an electric conversion kit on order.
07-30-2011 09:07 PM
lg1969 When you crank the engine there is no voltage coming off the ballast resistor. The voltage is coming from the solenoid and it should go to positive terminal of the coil. It bypasses the ballast resistor. It should read a full 12 volts when you cranking it and about 10 volts when the ignition switch is on the "on" mode. I don't know how you wired yours but this how standard chevy is setup.
07-30-2011 08:48 PM
dklong is the system points or electronic ign , points you need a balast resistor , electronic you don't need one,
the balast resistor isn't put in out enough voltage, try by-passing it or replacing it
07-29-2011 03:46 PM
madmaxx886 Its a t bucket with a 327 and t350. I believe that the distributor is a mallory too (2548201) and as far as that resistor i'm actually not sure if i need it or not it came in the box with the coil, but the engine did start before I did the swap with that resistor in.
07-29-2011 03:11 PM
madmaxx886
327 wont start

so i installed a new intake and carb after getting rid of some holleys. Afterwards my engine would crank but not start. I have a mallory coil and the associated electronic ballast, there is 12.2 volts going into the ballast and 3 coming out. When i crank the engine with a multimeter on the coil it says there is about 1 volt. Im assuming that that isn't enough to spark a plug considering my timing light wont even strobe. Any advice?

Need more information, it this a full Mallory ignition system, coil, distributor and all? What vehicle? Do you need that ballast resistor?

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