|06-10-2012 02:24 PM|
|Biothree||I used a plastic horse watering troft (no horses now). I bought liquid molasses at the local feed store and mixed it 10:1 with water. My 1946 parts took several days to several weeks to remove the rust. I wire brushed them once per week. It is a good solution for hard to get to rust like on window regulators. Rinse good and I soaked in water with baking soda, dryed with a blower and primed.|
|05-05-2012 01:15 AM|
I used molasses on some of my Chevy parts when we were still at the old house. It seemed to be working pretty well at first so I got ambitious and setup a spray shower to start doing bigger parts. I ended up doing the pass side fender and door and a bunch of smaller stuff with surprisingly good results. 9:1 might be a little too thin, iirc I ran it at around 4-5:1 which was cleaning stuff with pretty heavy surface rust to completely clean in 4-5 days. But that was having to run the shower (read: pump) 24 hours a day. Warm ambient temps help it work faster too, I think it virtually quit working at under 50*F or so. But even at ideal concentration and conditions, it still takes awhile to get the metal 100% derusted. And being an organic material, it does support bacteria growth so it starts to get pretty funky after a couple of weeks.
The black film is iron oxide redepositing on the surface. As others mentioned it's nothing detrimental and does act as a temporary protective coating. It should wipe right off with a good solvent.
Incidentally that Evaporust stuff you can find just about anywhere nowadays does the job faster but it's way pricier and comes already fully diluted. There are concentrates available that make it a bit more cost effective, I got some awhile back that was about $70/gal and I think you can dilute it to make up to 20 gals. I'm just in the process of getting the new shower set up now so hopefully will have some updates in the next week or so
|03-31-2012 09:54 PM|
|03-30-2012 10:31 PM|
|benchracer1||Ive been using some stuff from the local supermarket simply because I havent found any feed stores that sell the stuff. I think it works well enough to warrant finding feed grade in bulk and going to the next step......Steve|
|03-30-2012 09:29 PM|
Very interesting read (and look), thanks for posting. I am not big on "home remedies" but damn that's intresting.
And because I am an anal nut job I have to say that isn't a 27, it's a 26. At least the doors are.
|03-30-2012 07:37 PM|
The black may be iron oxide, it is the same coating that many bolts on a vehicle have. It is a protectant, but not a very good one. If so, Just clean the piece properly and coat with epoxy. No need to worry about the black parts, it will hold paint just as well as the rest of the part.
I read on the web somewhere a while back when I was first researching chelation I read where a guy suggested finding a used chest type freezer and using it as a soak tank for chelation soaking.
Just build a rack in the bottom to support your items and not have them poke holes in the interior.
When I get to that point on my current project there will be an old chest type freezer along side the shop.
I am going to try and find one with a built in drain valve.
|03-30-2012 07:36 PM|
|wayneooo||hey after your done just lift the lid add a small fan put up a tree stand instant bear bait cattle molasses and horse grain and of course donuts is what we used in maine|
|03-30-2012 06:51 PM|
|RotorHead||Looks like some kind of chemical reaction, try to buff it out with a scotch brite wheel on a die grinder.|
|03-30-2012 10:39 AM|
|benchracer1||I was able to get the molasses to work. I guess it just takes time. Some of the metal took 2+ weeks. I noticed on some of it the metal actually started turning black. Anybody seen this before?|
|02-16-2012 01:04 PM|
Have you ever seen a Cow that ate Molasses get a Rusty Stomach??? There yah go
|02-13-2012 07:05 PM|
This thread knocked over one of "my" memory banks and I remember his old mechanic that I use to hang around his shop ( mainly because I was sweet on his daughter ) and he swore that molasses would clean the rust and all of the other gunk out of engine blocks. I remember one time that I was at his shop and he was putting a flat head Ford tractor block in to a 55 gal drum and had a bunch of molasses in the old style gas cans. I asked what he was doing and he proceeded to tell me that it would remove the rust and stuff out of the block and that it was better and cheaper than having it hot tanked. Well this man was well known for imbibing adult beverages and I wrote it off to him being potted and never thought to ask how long it would take or any thing else for that matter. So maybe there was something to what he was doing....any one else heard of cleaning a block like this.
|02-13-2012 10:15 AM|
|benchracer1||I might try and get some sulphated type and give it a try. This is just a little experimental peice to get it figured out|
|02-13-2012 12:39 AM|
|evintho||I don't know what the chemical makeup of my molasses was. I just know it was 'feed grade' and I bought it at a commercial livestock feed store. I left my stuff in the mix for 2 weeks and it completely removed 80 years of severe rust.|
|02-12-2012 10:35 PM|
|benchracer1||I made up a small sample of molasses and water (9 to 1) as an experiment with molasses rust removal. I believe that I used unsulphated. I put a peice of rusty sheet metal in for a week and really did not get great results. Do I need to give it more time or do I need sulphated molasses? I provided a before and after pic........Steve|
|09-02-2011 07:54 AM|
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