|08-10-2015 08:54 PM|
I wasn't trying to time it that way. It's just that I moved the bobbin case slightly, which happened to be sufficient to disengage the gears and put the timing out slightly. I have fixed this up now and it is sewing fine.
Just gotta get the right size thread that the machine will work with while being strong enough for the canvas jobs I have to do.
Thanks for your advice, I do have a sewing machine mechanic close by, but @ $120 an hour, I try to use him only when I have to.
|08-10-2015 07:23 AM|
|DanTwoLakes||Stop trying to time this machine by moving the bobbin case, that's not how you time the machine. If you try to run the machine with the bobbin case out of whack you can seriously damage the machine. Take the machine to a pro.|
|08-10-2015 03:10 AM|
The thread I have is M15 not sure what that is in imperial. It goes in my needle ok. The problem seems to be when the upper thread gets dragged around the bobbin to make the thread, the thread is too large to go between the bobbin case and the bottom of the machine. Whilst trying to move the bobbin case over slightly, I have put the timing out.
Does anyone have a diagram on how to set the needle/bobbin timing properly?
This much harder than building a race car!!
|08-09-2015 09:15 AM|
|DanTwoLakes||How large was the thread you got? You may need to use a larger needle. There is only one bobbin case for your machine. If you use larger thread, you will have to change bobbins more often, that's all.|
|08-09-2015 05:13 AM|
Seems I have sorted out the tension now as I am able to sew well.
I bought some thicker thread today, but it seems I may need a larger bobbin case or something?
I bought it from a lady who does lots of sewing on a Singer machine and she recommended it. It just gets tangled up when I use it.
I am sewing a lot of canvas with the machine.
Thanks in advance
|08-08-2015 01:26 AM|
Yep thats it thanks. Perhaps I was trying to overengineer it. Quite simple really isn't it?
Thanks heaps for that, put my mind at ease.
Now just gotta sort out the thread tension issue and we will be off!
|08-07-2015 07:22 AM|
What problem are you having? The foot for walking foot machines like the 545 are in two pieces. The inside part of the foot mounts on the shaft directly behind the needle shaft, and the the outside part of the foot mounts on the shaft directly behind that. There's only one way that either of those two parts will attach to their respective shafts. This is not a Pfaff 545, but it is a walking foot machine.
Here is your foot: Pfaff 145 545 1245 Machine Welt Foot Set 3 16 PW02 | eBay
This is a welt foot, but any other feet will all have two parts and attach to the shafts in the same way.
|08-07-2015 02:14 AM|
Hi I'm new round here. Used to have a 27 Ford Roadster Drag car, not that you hot rodders would really call that a hot rod.
Could someone please take a couple of closeup photos of your Pfaff 545 machine around the area of the foot? I have just bought a secondhand one and having trouble setting it up. I got a manual but not very clear pics. Thanks in advance
|01-22-2015 01:07 PM|
Thank you Dan, I noticed that even though Schmetz lists 134 as the needle - the containers that they come in show them as 134 and 135 so perhaps it is just a case of better needles than in 1900... and more options.
I have had this machine for almost 30 years- when I got it - it was black and fluffy inside. I took it totally apart and cleaned it - it took far longer to put it back together! I took it to Los Angeles to a fellow who only worked on Industrial machines and he said it was in amazing condition. He tuned it - that was many years ago!
Recently using thick thread to make some canvas covers the timing went askew -
I have gone to every forum and blog looking for information to time the machine and this forum is the first to give exact measurements. They were easy to follow and it runs perfectly.
Thanks for all the help.
|01-22-2015 07:08 AM|
|DanTwoLakes||You can use the 134 needles, that's what my needle reference chart says for your machine anyway.|
|01-21-2015 10:02 PM|
Pfaf 142 timing
I did exactly what you said and it worked! beautiful stitches! I thank you all immensely as I have been messing with this for two weeks!
Ok here is a question.
I have a 142-720/02 601-BS and the manual states that it requires a 134 FLG needle? I have looked all over and from what I understand there was something about that needle that allowed this machine to do very fast flat seams.. ?
I use the 134 -35 and have not noticed a problem. Would it make a difference if I went with only 134 needles?
I had some wonky screws and got replacements from Pfaff I checked the serial number with them and my machine is one from 1900 and was sold to the military for uniforms etc... Now that you all helped me time it - it is back making beautiful stitches and so quiet!
|05-13-2014 01:21 PM|
Replacing needle bar
You will need to slide the needle bar down, so you will need to remove the feed dog and the plate that prevents the needle bar from moving from side to side. You simply loosen the screw that holds the needle bar in place and slide it out. Immediately put the new needle bar in making sure that the bushing that holds the needle bar has not flipped over. Making sure that the timing is set properly, adjust the needle bar so that when the hook point is directly behind the needle, the hook point is 1.6 mm above needle eye.
|05-13-2014 07:37 AM|
Yes, it's extremely rare a needle bar will break. I had to replace the needle bar on my Consew 226 because I broke the screw off that holds the needle in place.
Before you do anything, mark where the present needle bar is located at each attaching point on your machine. This will give you a good starting point when you install the new one.
|05-12-2014 10:31 PM|
|Pfaff545h3||Does anyone here know how to replace the needle bar on a pfaff 545. I was told that it is rare that the bar fails. There is nobody in my area that services sewing machines. I just need to be pointed in the right direction. I have all the manuals with the parts brake down.|
|10-22-2013 06:47 PM|
Timing a Pfaff 545, Consew 226, Singer 111W and Juki LU-563
Adjust stitch length to zero (no feeding).
Turn handwheel to place needle in lowest position.
When needle is raised 2.5mm above lowest position (in sewing direction), hook point should be directly behind needle.
After setting hook timing, check that there is .1mm clearance between hook and needle.
After setting hook timing, adjust needle bar so that when hook point is directly behind needle, the hook point is 1.6mm above needle eye.
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