|09-26-2011 06:34 PM|
|Mutt's37Buick||Thanks for your help|
|09-26-2011 06:32 PM|
Actually these are pics I already had on my computer. I don't have the lowers any longer but I'll try and get you the upper arm pivot tube to BJ measurement tonight.
These arms are standard OE M-II width. The bottom arm is for a traditional separate coil spring and shock.
|09-26-2011 06:18 PM|
Could you take one more picture of the upper & lower with the ruler perpendicular to the pivot pin and next to the ball joint? See my sketch.
Do you know if these are the narrowed style or standard?
|09-26-2011 05:53 PM|
|Elevinpointsixtoone||I attached photo's with a ruler next to new, stock dimension, tubular M-II arms. I have 2 sets of uppers for sale BTW. I ordered some other stuff, these showed up by mistake and I don't think they realized these were missing!|
|09-26-2011 05:08 PM|
Give Tom a call. http://www.streetrodengineering.com/...gllifskits.htm
My buddy has used his parts on about 25-30 cars, he makes everything in-house, 1/4 in metal instead of the usual 3/16, nice parts. I have his kit on my coupe, check out my journal. He has an application for the 37, you can order what ever you want.
Heidts used to print out an interesting pamphlet about sprung weight and the M2 suspension. Most street rods set the engine back far enough that weight is not a problem.
|09-26-2011 04:53 PM|
Dimensions of Mustang II control arms
Can anyone provide some dimesnions for a set of stock or tubular Mustang II upper and lower control arms?
These would be the A-shaped lower control arm (no-strut design).
I would hope to use a strut rod in addition for added strength.
It's a long shot, but I'm exploring the option of using them with my Buick cross member and springs.
If you can furnish dimensions A, B, & C for a lower arm, that would help.
If you can furnish diemensions A & C for and upper arm, that would help.
See the attached sketch.
Thanks for your help.
|09-16-2011 12:29 PM|
|Elevinpointsixtoone||I suspect the Total Cost Involved M-II spindles may already have this addressed as their spindles are of their own design and not true M-II replacements. They use larger Granada pins etc. Might be worth a phone call.....|
|09-16-2011 11:00 AM|
Thanks for all your help.
Below is Speeedways response whtn I asked about Ackerman angle:
"The Mustang II spindle should still work pretty good even with a 131” wheel base. The Ackerman angle with the longer wheelbase will hardly be noticed unless you are planning on doing a lot of Autocross racing. It would only effect very tight turns like in a parking lot. In a perfect world the front tie rod when lined up with the ball joint centerline should intersect the center of the rear axle. In order to get the Ackerman correct the tie rod location on the steering arm would have to be moved inboard approximately ¼” but personally I think the stock location will be close enough.
Speedway Motors, Inc.
New Product Development
402-323-3210 ext. 2945"
1) Does anyone know of a part that could be bought, or machined, that would offset the tierod connection to the steering arm inward 1/4" and allow better steering in tight turns?
|09-12-2011 10:29 AM|
|Mutt's37Buick||Thanks for your help|
|09-09-2011 11:53 AM|
TCI also includes 1.125" lower arms with heavy duty K719 ball joints standard with their kits now.
|09-09-2011 12:37 AM|
A lot of the Speedway offerings and now much of the Heidts pieces are imported. Yes, Heidts that is now owned by a large conglomerate is importing pieces to include in their "US Produced" kits. I'd check out Total Cost Involved kits. Still all made in the USA and very competitive on price. If you want to piece together a kit on your own check this site FAB Quest:
They have a neat separate hub and 11" rotor kit for the M-II that uses the large GM 7" D-52 caliper. Quite a few crossmember options also. This is where I purchased my dads tube arms, QA-1 coil overs and front brake kit as well as a universal rear triangulated 4 link. We are very satisfied with the quality and service so far.
|09-08-2011 11:20 PM|
If you are talking a GM metric rotor, No Limit Engineering has a dual pattern rotor for that with 4 1/2, or 4 3/4 bolt pattern. They also have a 2" drop Mustang spindle that has the GM caliper bracket incorporated into it, and uses all GM metric parts, rotor, caliper, and hardware. Speedway has a large bore metric caliper that is the functional equivalent of the large GM caliper.
|09-08-2011 10:06 PM|
The only thing you need to buy from Heidts is the crossmember, top hats, and strut rod mounts....generally known as a crossmember kit. You don't need to buy all their other stuff. Stock or dropped Mustang II spindles are available almost everywhere and the Speedway kit for the big GM brakes will fit the stock Mustang spindles. Just keep in mind that you will probably have to go with 15" wheels with those big brakes. Shop around for the best deal on control arms or stop by your local wrecking yard to see if they have any used control arms. Chances are they will be good factory Ford parts and all you'll have to do is pick up some new bushings and ball joints, clean them up and hit them with a coat of POR or your choice of paint. Probably be able to get the strut rods there too all cheaper than the aftermarket.
"Instructions are just the manufacturers opinion of how it should be put together". - Tim Allen
|09-08-2011 08:48 PM|
I understand the midsize GM calipers have more surface area and better stopping tham the GM metric. Found that I cannot buy the Heidts Mustang II with midsize GM calipers and 5 x 4.5" bp. This seemed like a logical combination to allow using a Ford rear end and Ford wheel pattern all around. What are the common solutions to this problem?
|09-08-2011 08:15 PM|
Thanks so much for your feedback. I misunderstood your last post and thought you were recommending the tubular arms. Definitely want to go with the strongest option and if it saves cost that is even better.
Thanks again for your help.
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