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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior> Using Poly Primer instead of Poly Putty in between Epoxy and Eurethane primer
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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-21-2011 02:32 PM
abarli65 I was able to learn from everyone's replies and apply it to the deck lid. (Thank you)

I ended up needing only a bit more metal glaze to get everything feeling smooth... I even worked out a small wave on the other half, which I 'thought' was complete.

I got it to where I was comfortable enough to spray 3 coats of SPI's 2k. I have started blocking it and finding that I am pretty straight. I did have some spray imperfections, which you can see in the picture where I re-sprayed... they have since blocked out smooth.

So, I was under the notion that the SPI 2k primer was not a high build like featherfill? Was I, this entire time, questioning the use of a sprayable body filler while it being a part of my spray plan all along??

Is the SPI 2k just the same as using featherfill?

09-13-2011 02:36 PM
abarli65 I spent most of Saturday morning driving across town to pickup more filler from the paint shop. I did spend a little time knocking down the metal glaze I had on the deck lid and it is starting to smooth out... I am looking at it differently now and really examined the high spots. They are right on the bracing that attaches to the skin, so I ended up hammering on them a little bit, and will also hammer up on an area on the back edge that was rather low. I am pretty confident that I will be able to get it smoothed out in short order.

I ended up getting my primer gun back out and shooting some other sanded areas and my entire trunk. Needed something different than sanding, so ended up over the course of Sat/Sun/Mon, shooting primer, color, and clear in the trunk interior. Now I can install the tank for the last time and fill it up to pull her in and out of the garage easier. Next Saturday will be spent finishing out the hood and deck lid. I promise!

Thanks for all the info thus far!

09-12-2011 10:05 PM
skip99 agree with shine, you are taking it too far down, try rage gold, save the extreme for finishing.... I've got to where i do my body work with rage gold only, then epoxy and spray 2 coats of featherfill, then block with 180 real quick, before I da and spray urethane primer..i think it turns out nice....
09-11-2011 05:36 PM
mr4speed I noticed in one of your photos that you are using one of those 3M yellow long boards. I bought the same one about 4 years ago, and after many sessions of skimming and blocking I realized this thing was not flat. Sure enough with a simple test on a perfect flat edge this thing was only touching on the two outside edges, the center was bowed in. Bottom line I dont care who you are, if your blocks are not flat you will never get the panels straight. Do yourself a favor check all your blocks and see just how flat they really are. I ended up cutting different lenghts of 3/8 plexi glass and using that 3M block as a very expensive handle for a truly flat longboard.
09-11-2011 06:24 AM
deadbodyman Agreed and epoxpy goes one step further,it can be used as a cant spray epoxy thick enough to bury a quarter on a friday nite and sand it saturday...granted its not something pros with years of experiance would need but if a man is having trouble getting the filler and putty right he would have better luck with it.
09-10-2011 06:55 AM
shine anything you can do with poly i can do with epoxy.
09-09-2011 07:19 PM
abarli65 I have been using 40 just to get it get it grated a bit, then switch to 80.
09-09-2011 06:32 PM
swvalcon What are you using for sand paper? The biggest mistake most beginers do is try to finish with to fine of a grit. It's way easier to under cut the edge with fine paper.Try to use 80 grit untill you get the feel of it.
09-09-2011 01:57 PM
abarli65 Shine, I think I can envision what you are saying.... putting a square down, and only sanding till the edges of the square start to taper, but stays a square?

bodyman, great info. so, one good thing about taking that class was the availability of great tools... I did pickup a 6" da sander from my favorite place to spend as little money as possible (Harbor Freight). I also got one of their inline sanders as well... not as good as a hutchins, but 1/6 the price.

I am not afraid to spend on something really good if needed... I do plan on doing this all again with my son in about 12 years, so if the tool is required, I will go for it.

plus I got a bunch of 6 inch disks already... do I really need 8"? tell me it ain't so.

Totally got you on the pressure... I do tend to press rather than change out the paper. I noticed that I press less when using the 16" durablock over the 3m block.

I will get a few hours in on her tomorrow and will try to do it without the featherfill. I like trial by fire until it gets too hot.
09-09-2011 12:48 PM
Originally Posted by shine
bare steel , epoxy , filler, epoxy, epoxy, epoxy, epoxy.......
LOL Shine, thats for the really talented bodymen doing high dollar work not the weekend warriors. Starting them off with some spray fillers aint so bad..I know I've used a good bit when I started out.

your problem is that when your sanding the deck your pressing down to hard and flexing the steel over the foam that connects the inner structure to the skin. if you look underneath you'll see everywhere theres filler theres a some of that foam under it....try either skimming it with poly putty if you have some with a guide coat or the poly or 2k primers ,they'll sand a lot easier so you dont have to press down so this situation I think the poly primer and a long block with 80 will get you very close the fastest...
the trick to doing the filler work is to start sanding before it gets hard,the filler has a sweet spot between too wet to sand and to hard ,if you can slide your finger across it without smearing it ,it's ready and if you stand right there ,block in hand and wait you can just let the wieght of the block do all the work you just push it back and forth ,not 8" mud hog DA also works wonders on flimsy hoods and decks,the bigger footprint acts like a snowshoe....I've been where you are and its no fun spending twenty hours on a hood and it seems worse than when you started that mud hog will be your savior on hard patient ,sand lightly and use plenty of guide coat.
09-09-2011 11:44 AM
shine always lay your filler in a square. if you block it until you see shape your too low.
09-09-2011 11:07 AM
abarli65 some pics of my work... some areas went quick, others... not so much.

This was my very first spread of filler...

shaping out small areas like this don't seem to be an issue with me

but the large areas and complex curves are a huge learning curve

after all that filler and sanding, it still felt very wavy...
so I concentrated my efforts to one side... it feels good, and looks straight from a primer perspective

I am currently here... trying to get the right side leveled out.

oh yeah, and I have ADD when it comes to working on one spot... I get bored with it, so I like to move around a lot. I know I should work one fender till complete, but can't seem to control myself.
09-09-2011 10:51 AM
abarli65 Dave, I do use the metal glaze over my filler. I took a auto paint/body class at the community college in order to have access to their paint booth... Instructor taught me that without the glaze over the filler, the epoxy kind of gets sucked into the filler.

LOL... was wondering if you would see this. I've been reading long enough to know your thoughts... :-) if only we could get a candy apple red epoxy and a clear coat epoxy we would be all set! Get BarryK on that!

I have seen some videos of guys using a huge gob of filler and spreading it really nice and thin over an entire panel... what are they using?? my rage extreme does not seem to give me the time to mix, let alone spread that much filler onto a panel?

I am currently at the end of my gallon of rage extreme... you would think I was eating the stuff. Should I get another gallon of extreme, or switch to another product?
09-09-2011 08:48 AM
shine bare steel , epoxy , filler, epoxy, epoxy, epoxy, epoxy.......
09-09-2011 08:10 AM
Irelands child Bare steel > epoxy > filler > epoxy > poly> 2K if you want > BC/CC. Just make sure that you have epoxy on bare steel. And as DBM says, even some Icing might be desirable. I probably have that on the trunk lid I show above

For sanding, a really long board 18 to 36 inches will often 'fix' waves that keep cropping up.

Barry's recommendations are always right on but everyone has a different way and they probably aren't wrong either

Dave W
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