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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-22-2011 07:03 AM
timothale
tight fit ?

Holding the big hammer on a tight nut and smacking
the other side works , the shock wave usually help to break it loose . since the screw in part is still inside you won/t distort it.
09-21-2011 03:22 PM
T-bucket23
Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale
To get tie rods and ball joints loose I hold my big sledge hammer tight against one side of the forged arm-spindle and hit the other side with another big hammer. The shock helps to get them loose easier than just pulling with a cheater bar.
Those ball joints are actually screwed into the control arm. This is what he was asking about.
09-21-2011 08:00 AM
timothale
big hammer ?

To get tie rods and ball joints loose I hold my big sledge hammer tight against one side of the forged arm-spindle and hit the other side with another big hammer. The shock helps to get them loose easier than just pulling with a cheater bar.
09-21-2011 07:26 AM
T-bucket23 Those sockets are in most of the Ball Joint kits that you can borrow or rent from the parts stores.
09-20-2011 07:57 PM
enjenjo
Quote:
Originally Posted by chevelle_502
what brand? just the number brings up the most random *****.
http://assaultech.com/spc_performanc.../i-397715.aspx
09-20-2011 07:26 PM
T-bucket23 A 3Ft pipe wrench works just fine. Took many out this way, soak it with PB blaster and it will come out. Sometimes you need to add a piece of pipe for leverage.
Recently did them on a Volare, came right out.
Never lost the threads on any and we did have some tight ones over the years.
09-20-2011 06:18 PM
chevelle_502 what brand? just the number brings up the most random *****.
09-19-2011 10:18 AM
enjenjo It's 1 29/32" Google PN 68880
09-18-2011 07:24 PM
chevelle_502 I actually bought a 72 new yorker 440 w/disc so I could change it all over. Is the socket you used a 1 7/8". Several sizes out there and they are f^%kin expensive so I want the right one the first time.
09-18-2011 04:56 PM
Bryan59EC It is a special socket

The one I have---but cannot find---is a 3/4" drive socket and I had to use a reducer for a 1/2" drive breaker bar.

Chances are real good that that sucker is in there real tight------gonna need a lot of leverage to get it out.

Have not worked on a Chrysler product since the 80s.
I did the front end on a 67 Chrysler 300-----440/4-spd car----stolen in 89

When you do find a socket----soak the threads with some penetrating oil for a day or two---might come out easier.

I would not worry about the threads----they will probably be okay.

While you are at it-----search around some junkyards for a 73 Full size Mopar and get the disc brakes----spindles and all.
Direct bolt in---I did this to my 300 because replacing the the calipers and rotors, even back in the early 80s, was way too expensive and the parts were difficult to locate. Mine had those 4-piston calipers and 2-piece rotors.
09-18-2011 03:36 PM
chevelle_502
68 chrysler upper ball joints

Ok ive scoured the internet and searched everything I could on here concerning my 68 chrysler's upper ball joints. From what Ive learned I need a square socket and depending on the condition I can thread the old ones out and the new ones back in provided the bore is in goog enough condition and the new ones tighten to 125 ft-lbs. What I want to make sure of is from what I can tell I need a 1 7/8 socket, but theres a lot of different sizes out there. Also any tips or tricks would be great.

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