|09-29-2011 07:39 AM|
Thank you for the kind words. Sometimes I get frustrated with people who ask questions and then get upset that the answer they get isn't what they want to hear. Most times I can ignore it, but sometimes I get testy with the people who do it.
There are certain grain patterns that all of the manufacturers copy, like Sierra, Madrid, Wallaby, Oxen, and Montana. There are even different grades of these patterns.
Any of the major brands are fine to use, but I like to stick to either transportation grade or marine grade vinyls. The major brands are Spradling, Boltaflex, Enduratex, and Naugahyde.
As far as leather goes, Rich Leather (CLICK HERE )is a good supplier. The prices are reasonable and the leather is always good quality. Don't buy the lowest grade leather, or anything that is a closeout.
|09-28-2011 02:59 PM|
Thanks and Recomondations
Once again Thanks,
I have been doing some reading on other posts and while it appears some have a hard time taking advice from those with experience I on the other hand have the opposite view point. To me gathering all the information that I can from others the have real life experiences is the fasted way I know to advance my knowledge without making alot of the same mistakes. Your time spent responding to mine and other posts is greatly appreciated by most and that is all you need to focus on.
Can you make a recommendations of a particular lines of vinyls and/or leathers that you like to use and would recommend.
I had an experience on my boat seats where I went back to the same place I purchased my materials from to get some more of the same color and it turned out to be slightly different. When I took it back the guy took me in the back room and sure enough in the same slot were several rolls all the same color code but had a different backing and slightly different color. He indicated that they bought from two different manufactures and thus the difference.
|09-28-2011 02:42 PM|
Yes, some vinyls are far easier to work with than others. In General, the heavier the vinyl the harder it is to work with. Vinyl doesn't have to be thick or stiff to be strong. Most of the vinyls now days weigh around 29 ounces per running yard. That means a piece of vinyl 36" by 54" weighs 29 ounces. Look at the specs for the vinyl. It should have an abrasion test rating. The more double rubs it can withstand, the better it is. I almost always use marine vinyls if I can. They have mildew resistant faces and backings, are oil and gas resistant, and have UV stabilized pigments so their colors don't fade.
The stretching is somewhat important. Most vinyls have a 2 way stretch, which means they stretch easily either from side to side or from top to bottom. It is important to orient all the pieces the same way when laying out for cutting. There are some 4 way stretch vinyls, but they are mostly used for specialty applications like ATV, motorcycle, and jet ski seats. The 4 way stretch vinyls have improved immensely in the past few years, but aren't needed for most jobs.
|09-28-2011 02:00 PM|
Thanks Dan that was quick,
I just remember another question that I would like some help with or maybe it has been discussed before and you can point me in the right direction.
When selecting materials in particular vinyl, I have noticed that each has it own particular characteristics. Some stretch more then others some stretch one one direction than the other, etc. etc.
What does one look for when making a decision? Are some easier to work with then others? etc. etc.
|09-28-2011 01:46 PM|
|DanTwoLakes||The belt tension is adjusted by loosening or tightening the motor mounting. The belt doesn't have to be real tight. It should have about 1/2" of play in it when you push in on it with your finger.|
|09-28-2011 01:29 PM|
Love the machine, finished up my boat seats really came out nice.
I have since totally disassembled the table and stand, the stand was real rusty to the point of being pitted. I grinded and sanded and grinded and sanded until I was blue in the face. Anyway repainted it with a gray hammered looking paint and it looks great. The feet were pretty weak due to all the rust and grinding so I built some wooden block to bolt it to, this added some strength to the feet and will allow me to move inside the house if need be. I have also ordered a new top, was going to build one but after all the time spent on the legs just decided to purchase it. That has arrived and I have attached it to the legs added a new drawer and light and it looks like a new machine. Additionally I purchased a new servo motor and installed it, so basically I have about $800 into the thing probably more than I had originally planned but it is a really nice setup and should hold it value well.
One new question, how do you set the tension on the belt?
|08-30-2011 05:03 AM|
So how are you doing with machine?
|08-26-2011 02:51 PM|
|DanTwoLakes||You only needed a few drops next to the bobbin case. There isn't anything to hold a lot of oil in that area. Too much oil is just wasting oil. A couple drops in the key locations is all that is needed.|
|08-26-2011 02:31 PM|
One more question!
One more question, I oiled up the baby following the instructions from the manual. It said to fill the bobbin well with oil so I did. Mind you not completely just the lower right part that has the little indention not to the point of touching the bobbin but you could see the oil. Then a couple of days later I look and it has all run out. Is this normal or should I have not put that much in? Thanks
|08-19-2011 08:06 AM|
You should always use sewing machine oil only. You could stain fabric if you use another type of oil, and some other oils can gum up over time. When you oil, make sure you take the end cover off the machine and oil the parts behind the cover. See the two oily wicks at the end of the two shafts in the picture? That's how they should always look. If they get dry, it can cause problems.
Changing the lower feed dog and /or the throat plate the feed dog comes up through should be done if the parts are worn out or broken, but that doesn't happen very often unless the machine was used in a factory.
|08-19-2011 07:51 AM|
Thanks for the replies all,
A couple of more questions, what type of oil should I be using and does it ever make since to replace the lower feed dog?
|08-19-2011 07:43 AM|
There are two ways to start sewing. One, like slodat said, is to hold the thread as you start sewing. The other is to turn the hand wheel until the needle penetrates the work and then start sewing.
The other thing to watch is to make sure the thread is securely set between the two disks of the top tension. If it's not, the bottom stitch will be straight for a few stitches until the thread seats itself between the tension disks.
|08-18-2011 03:55 PM|
|slodat||You need to hold tension the bottom and top thread when you start sewing. You can let go after the a few stitches when you back tack.|
|08-18-2011 03:49 PM|
First time poster somewhat long time viewer.
I just purchased a used Consew 226R-1 and it appears to be a sweet machine, however I am having 1 small problem that I am unable to figure out.
I will try and explain the best I can, when I first start out stitching something every so ofter I will get a mess on the first few stitches (10-15) always on the bottom of the stitch. Most time I really do not even realize it has happened until I turn the work over.
Any suggestions as to what to check or look for?