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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-25-2011 07:25 AM
1969chevyss I am taking my parts to the machine shop this week to get a balanced done. Here are the parts that I was told by a known good machine shop to bring in for the balance. Let me know if this sounds right.

Harmonic balancer plus bolt
Front crank timing gear plus both keys
Flywheel plus bolt
1 rod bearing
1 ring bearing
10-16-2011 07:10 AM
1969chevyss The nodular crank casting number is 14088526
10-15-2011 08:11 PM
1969chevyss Is a brand new GM nodular iron crank better than the eagle cast steel crank? Which would you use? Just asking because I found a guy who supposedly has a brand new one.
10-14-2011 03:03 PM
1969chevyss Thanks for the reply, i will check and see.
10-14-2011 02:46 PM
cobalt327 Typically an "H" bearing is used w/large crank fillets. You must check the "P" bearings to see if they crowd the fillets, and even though your .092" radius isn't huge (0.125", or 1/8", is typical in many cases), I suspect they may need to be clearanced.
10-14-2011 02:30 PM
1969chevyss I have a set of Clevite 77 P series rod and main bearings. My crank is an eagle that has a .092' radius on the rod journals, main journals, rear seal and snout for supposedly increased strength. Will my rod and main bearings work or do I need a different set?
10-08-2011 10:42 AM
Originally Posted by machine shop tom
The bores look like they may have a little TOO much chamfer. Make sure your head gasket does not over hang into the bore at the chamfer. If they do, you may need to use a 400 head gasket.
Thanks I will keep an eye on that when I install heads.
10-08-2011 08:54 AM
machine shop tom The bores look like they may have a little TOO much chamfer. Make sure your head gasket does not over hang into the bore at the chamfer. If they do, you may need to use a 400 head gasket.
10-07-2011 06:32 PM
1969chevyss Mann lol you had me sweating I was getting ready to curse the machine shop out. And you took for ever to reply back, lol. I did notice that when I compared my block to my buddies which is not chamfered. Thanks for looking. I can tell now you are going to be a big help on this build.
10-07-2011 06:28 PM
cobalt327 They need to be chamfered. And they sure look like they are. Sometimes photos can be deceiving, it looks like a lot is all, and before you ask- no it won't be a problem.
10-07-2011 11:59 AM
Originally Posted by cobalt327
Can you say chamfered bores?
What do you mean? Does it not need to be chamfered?
10-07-2011 11:38 AM
cobalt327 Can you say chamfered bores?
10-07-2011 11:18 AM
1969chevyss Here are a couple of pistures of my block after I got if from the machine shop and painted it.


10-07-2011 11:10 AM
1969chevyss I already have the Eagle rods but will take a look at the SCAT rods and see. Thanks
10-07-2011 10:13 AM
machine shop tom
Originally Posted by 1969chevyss
Just wondering, I have the eagle i beam press rods, but was considering about getting some bushd procomp rods. I also have the Scat crank from ebay and Clevite 77 p-series rod and main bearings. The only thing I'm not sure about are these piston which I got for cheap and I am starting to think I should invest in a better set, even though i wont be racing. I will probably take it all and have it balanced in about a month or so. They said it would be 170 bucks.
The Eagle SIR I-Beam rods are junk pieces that won't hold size. The Pro-Comp rods are junk, period.

Look at Scat I-beam rods. Nice pieces that are very affordable.

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