|10-30-2011 12:24 AM|
|byron peters||Need alittle info on installing engine and transmission after suubframe install 305 and 700 r4|
|08-13-2011 08:34 AM|
|shine||somebody ban this spamer or at least teach him/her english.|
|08-08-2011 11:37 PM|
here is how it came out
truck with nova front end installed
|08-08-2011 02:50 PM|
|08-04-2011 05:33 PM|
|08-04-2011 01:31 AM|
|enjenjo||I boxed up to the steering box mount, and left the mount itself as it was. I can get a picture for you if that would help.|
|08-03-2011 02:26 PM|
|08-02-2011 03:12 PM|
|byron peters||ok so i got the sub frame measured leveled and welded the question i have now is about boxing it in what is safe to do around the powering steering mount? box it all the way around except that?|
|07-15-2011 04:09 PM|
|byron peters||thanks i have fisrt gen then|
|07-15-2011 03:46 PM|
|Tony@AirRideTech||1st gen is a rear steer.... 2nd gen is a front steer.|
|07-15-2011 03:36 PM|
|07-15-2011 03:16 PM|
|byron peters||very insightful and thanks very much now a couple questions how do you determine what sub you have (1st or 2nd gen)? i picked it up when i got the truck and previous owner could not remember the year it came off. i measured it out and all appears to be true as far as i could tell also do you no of any place i would be able to get some reseach material?|
|07-15-2011 08:29 AM|
If you plan on doing this I would suggest getting very educated on the subject of that swap. First of all the geometry on the first gen F body subframe / 2nd Gen Nova leaves alot to be desired out of the box... then if the clip is stubbed in off it gets worse. Common on that crossmember is also installing it to high in an attempt to lower it too much. Then by trying to get the truck up to a drivable height, the geometry is so far out that nothing can be done to correct it. Unfortunately here with what we do we talk to alot of guys that try to use an air suspension to band aid the problem because it is a done truck.
Im not saying this is the worse idea on the planet. I have seen a number of them done correctly and now with the pro touring movement as strong as it is, there are tons of bolt on aftermarket parts to correct the poor geometry issues that subframe is plagued with.
I would suggest at first looking at it from a price conscience standpoint. You will need to look at your crossmember and determine what will need to be rebuilt in order to make it spec right... brakes, bushings, tie rod ends ect.. ect... Then look at what it will take to correct the geometry and / or stub it in there correctly and hope that clip has never been hit, bent, or excesive crossmemeber sag that would need to be corrected. I would then weigh that against just simply finding you a weld in crossmember that has been engineered for your application and will be fabricated to run it at the height you want. That route, out of the box you would be getting better geometry, brakes and steering with a much simpler install with predictable results.
|07-15-2011 05:29 AM|
|byron peters||Thanks all for the insight my sub is a rear steer can any one elaborate on the too far to the back look? Does that happen with all sub frames?|
|07-14-2011 09:25 PM|
I would seriously consider fixing up and using the original suspension over grafting on a sub-frame. It makes for a much better vehicle overall.
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