|11-09-2011 07:30 PM|
|67MercCat||Well the perches came in today, they look good, I guess there's not much room for error with the Speedway perches. It turns out they got the hole size right this time Timothale so no drilling is required for this round. Next I'll be ordering the driveshaft after the perches are set in place and the appropriate measurements are made.|
|11-01-2011 09:35 AM|
Cool, sounds good I'm going to make the order. I hope the Chinese (Speedeway suppliers) can at least get these spring perches right. Gotta wait until this rent week is over before getting them and then I'll move on to the driveshaft. I thought it would be more involved than this. thanks guys.
I'll be buying this kit from http://www.ultrastang.com/info11.php to put disc brakes on my rear end from a Mark VII after the 9 inch is installed in place.
|10-31-2011 07:31 AM|
Those are the ones,one size fits all. Most ford 9 In. use a 3 inch axle tube. early Mustang and I think fairlane with the 271 hp engines had smaller tubes so the 4 spindle U bolt air tool could torque them, the same as for 6 cyl mustangs, on the final assembly line. double check the spring center bolt and make sure the hole in the perch is big enough. If needed drill out before welding. My Brother had a fairlane he used to drag race and had the rear mounted traction bars, he used to break the spring tie bolt , after 4 replacements he drilled out the spring bolts holes and used the bolts spec'd for a full sized Galaxie.
|10-30-2011 10:46 PM|
no yoke needed. I got my driveshaft and yoke from a 87 mustang (AOD equipped), the driveline company told me to bring the driveshaft and they would change the u-joint flange (I think thats what its called) to match the 9 inch pinion yoke and supply the u-joints for $180. The measurements are taken from the rear of the transmission housing to the flat surface of the pinion yoke, submit them and the spit out a functioning shortened balanced driveshaft.
As for the spring perches are these the ones your referring to timothale?
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Weld-O...Tubes,632.html Another guy said he used them on his 9 inch rear end.
Does the width of the leaf springs determine the the width of the perches I should order? Or is it one size fits all (9 inch) type of deal?
|10-30-2011 08:32 AM|
Hi,if you have to buy a yoke,STAY AWAY FROM SPEEDWAYS,theirs are made in china,holes for joints are too small.i had a yoke from them machined to correct size,when i started putting the joint in,i broke the yoke,that was an almost $200.00 lesson...
|10-30-2011 08:22 AM|
look in your speedway catalog or go to a trailer supply Co, The bigger ones have a lot of parts handy for fabbing rods , or a good steel supply co that has parts to build wrought iron fences, brackets drilled plates etc.
|10-29-2011 10:37 PM|
|67MercCat||Any suggestions for a 4X4 supply where I can buy some perches for a good price? I've been searching and haven't come up with anything reasonable....|
|10-27-2011 03:37 PM|
Ford 9 inch
Hey, I would say you got it going on. We have done a bunch of those conversions and finally learned not to mess around with drive lines, its cheaper to pay somebody that has the proper equipment...good luck..pc
|10-26-2011 08:07 PM|
yeah man thats so lame, I always wonder what caused the car to look like its drive crooked haha. I'm going to use the leaf springs as a guide (for straightness) and I'm going to remove the current rear end and place the 9 inch rear end housing on the plates, adjust the pinion angle using an adjustable jack stand and tack weld them to the housing.
As far as the welding, I've been told to weld 1 inch at a time and switch from side to side in intervals to get around the heat issue.
I went to the driveline company today and they told me to bring in my current shaft and they'll shorten it to go from my T5
|10-26-2011 06:41 AM|
Ford 9 inch
The 9 inch is the way to go, but be careful welding on the axle tubes, don't get them too hot and make sure the housing is square with the front wheels. There is nothing uglier than a nice looking car "dog tracking" down the highway..............pc
|10-25-2011 10:16 PM|
|67MercCat||thx for the heads up guys but its a 9 inch. the case doesn't look like that one with the curved rib and plug...its has straight ribs and big spring perches (which I cut off today) whats the next step? buying new perches?|
|10-21-2011 05:48 AM|
|speedydeedy||No,the cross over joints do not cause a balance problem.They are correct about the 9 3/8" diff. I would do like tech and cobalt says and make sure you have a 9" because like it was stated there is no aftermarket support for the other one,only the 9". Hope this helps.|
|10-19-2011 01:04 PM|
Below is a photo of the Ford 9-3/8" rear end. The '65 T-Bird is said to have either the 9" or the 9-3/8" diff depending on the source, so it would be well worth your trouble to make sure before getting too far into it.
|10-19-2011 11:22 AM|
You may not have what you think you have. According to what I read, the diff you have is a 9 3/8", not a 9". They were a heavier duty diff used in the largest, most powerful Ford cars. I have come across them before in hot rodding. There are no aftermarket parts available for them like there are for the 9".
copied and pasted from www.ford-trucks.com ....
'63-77 Lincoln, LTD, and Thunderbirds had 9 3/8 inch centers, housings were cut away at the gasket surface for ring gear clearance, one curved rib at the front top portion of differential, strong but poor selection of axle ratios.
copied and pasted from www.mustangandfords.com ....
It also has a different pinion support, with a C8AW-B casting number.
copied and pasted from http://automotivemileposts.com/tbird...fications.html
REAR AXLE CODES
1 - 3.00:1
4 - 3.25:1
5 - 3.50:1
6 - 2.80:1
A - 3.00:1 Equa Lock
D - 3.25:1 Equa Lock
E - 3.50:1
F - 2.80:1
|10-19-2011 11:00 AM|
|327NUT||You're worrying way too much about these things, call a good driveline company and tell them your application and they will build you a properly balanced driveshaft that will mateup to your 9" and T5.|
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