|11-22-2011 02:10 PM|
I have a MILLER MATIC 220 and works great, just take ur time and practice. Key is good penatration and work on ur beads next... There is a ton of diffrent way though, stich welding, tac. ect ect.. depending on what u are working on... Do not use flux core IMHO. its messy and looks like crap. I use a mix gas but see what works for you.. Good luck
PS Friends dont let friends burn with red...
|11-16-2011 07:43 PM|
i would go to a com. college and take an evening weld class
and i would also go to the weld supply store and just talk them about your options from them to get gas
i would not buy a used bottle off the street
practice, practice, practice
|11-16-2011 07:10 PM|
|Newf Wit a 440||
Any welding supply store should be able to rent a bottle to you and you can just get a mini bottle for at home. I've been welding quite a bit with mine and still have half a tank. Use .030 wire for sheet metal applications. Your welding machine manual should have a matrix chart with wire feed speed(amps), and voltage for your wire/metal thickness that you are welding. The best gas for mig is a tri-mix. it is mostly Argon with a little CO2 and believe it or not a little O2. The manufacturer up here in Canada for this gas is Air Liquide and the gas is called Almig. When welding keep your wire stick out to a minimum(more bead control and less amps/heat), weld with a trailing motion( same as writing if you are right handed) left to right for flat welds to prevent burn through( you are depositing weld metal on weld metal rather than heating ahead of your molten puddle and burning through) and down hand for vertical seems. Also, to keep spatter down to a minimum try to keep your nozzle angle perpendicular to your workpiece. Use some scrap to experiment with the angle.
Also for filling gaps try "triggering it", pulling than releasing the trigger every second or so to allow the puddle to solidify in between pulls.
One other thing, if you are going to go with the argon gas mix(the best and not too $$), you may need to change the male fitting that goes into the bottle as it is different than a CO2 fitting. The regulator is the same, its just the end piece that screws into the bottle that you need to change. They are about 5$. A can of anti/spatter spray goes along way with saving your tips and also a quick coat on surrounding components helps with cleanup. I like the spray better than the gel for that reason.
A good starter project for a mig is a cart for it.
Cheers and good luck,
|11-09-2011 06:59 AM|
You betcha, rust gets those guys excited in a hurry!
Part of the test is a visual inspection and if the inspector determines a bottle is physically damaged or rusty that's the end of it and the hydro test is not even done. Once they mark that bottle as "failed" it then becomes just another piece of junk.
|11-09-2011 06:28 AM|
That old bottle was rusty on the bottom. , probably why it was rejected.
|11-09-2011 06:21 AM|
|oldred||Age itself does not mean much and bottles from the 40's are common due to war production, I have seen test dates as far back 1917! Theses really old bottles have been relegated to CO2 service now but a welding supply in KY I used when working in that area had a bunch of them ranging from that old 1917 bottle to several dated 1919 and a few in the 20's. If a bottle is still in good shape, no apparent damage and it's not rusty, it only needs a recent test date. If it's out of date they can not fill it until it's tested so there is usually an extra fee when exchanging an out-of-date bottle|
|11-09-2011 06:08 AM|
buying used bottles.
welding bottles have to be tested and certified every so often. Those numbers are stamped on the bottle. My old portible 2 ft high ox acety set had not been used for about 15 years. when I needed to use them again and get a refill they were still good and the supplier traded for new ones. I had a friend that moved to the east and the moving co would not take the extra bottle he had in his garage. When I took it in they said it was too old, had lots of numbers stamped on it. They would not exchange for a full bottle. JUST BEWARE when buying used bottles, Make sure you can exchange them.
|11-09-2011 06:00 AM|
Martinsr weld info
I did a search here on HR for ( basics of basics Martinsr) And it brought up the article.
|11-08-2011 09:23 PM|
this thread has bin a big help to me as i am trying to soak up all the info i can to learn what i am doing.
just want to say thank you to you all for all the good info.
if it was not for this i would have got a cheap flux core welder then bin cussing every time i blew a hole in the sheet steel.
|11-08-2011 07:54 PM|
We've also noted that the probabilty of having a supplier or delivery screw-up is inversely proportianal to how bad you need it, squared by a factor of Friday.
|11-08-2011 07:44 PM|
We discussed that a while back and most agree those dang bottles have a dump valve that is timed to automatically empty on Saturday afternoons!
J/JK of course but it sure seems to work that way.
|11-08-2011 07:39 PM|
+1 on that! That has to be the best most thorough piece I have ever seen covering light MIG welding for thin sheet like body panels.
|11-08-2011 07:33 PM|
|mmopar0521||I bought a bottle my first time at Airgas (size 40 bottle), and each time I go for a fill they trade it out for another rather than filling the one I return. Believe the fill is around $20. The bottle the first time is around $100. I ended up buying a spare after the first time I ran a bottle out after a long couple of days welding on a weekend, and couldn't get a refill.|
|11-08-2011 06:26 PM|
martin sr info
Martin Sr has written a very good guide to mig welding. I printed it a couple years ago and filed with my welding manual then gave to my son and told him to read up, improve his welds. I don't have the link but mabe he or someone else can link you up to it.
|11-08-2011 05:46 PM|
Can I buy an empty used bottle of any sort and fill with C-25? or does each bottle have to be unique to the mix?
Where do you purchase these mixes? Im in So California
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