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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior> Epoxy primer over 400 scratches?
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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-19-2011 06:10 PM
deadbodyman Speaking of razor blades....You wouldnt think such a small little thing would be SO important but ALL razor blades are NOT equal.....GET GOOD ONES...
I bough a box of 100 at lowes and they were the worst junk I ever used ...
stripping some peeling clear ,they nick after about two passes I had to throw them out, they wouldnt even cut masking paper without tearing it.
I got some good ones (PPG) and I stripped a whole hood today with one blade and never scratched or nicked the base coat...
The reason I mention this is I can only imagine someone that didnt know trying these and not knowing how they are supposed to work and nicking and scratching the whole job making all that extra work especially when stripping that last layer of epoxy or primer of the steel...a nicked blade is bad ,even for your sheetmetal
11-19-2011 01:12 PM
Old Fool
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
Just pay close attention to your reduction ratios its very easy to get it mixed up when everything you use has a diferent ratio...Even after 35 yrs of doing this work I get complacent and start day dreaming while mixing stuff....PAY ATTENTION.....This is what happens when you mix a 1:1 epoxy at 4:1......
Someone said using epoxy is like putting a condom on your car for protection...I never knew just how true that was till I screwed this up...
sure makes you appreciate razor blades !
11-19-2011 09:24 AM
deadbodyman Just pay close attention to your reduction ratios its very easy to get it mixed up when everything you use has a diferent ratio...Even after 35 yrs of doing this work I get complacent and start day dreaming while mixing stuff....PAY ATTENTION.....This is what happens when you mix a 1:1 epoxy at 4:1......
Someone said using epoxy is like putting a condom on your car for protection...I never knew just how true that was till I screwed this up...
11-17-2011 08:34 PM
MikeyBob Thanks all, I decided to spray some reduced epoxy, and let that dry overnight and then spray some 2k and wetsand it supercarefully with the 600 later
11-16-2011 11:33 PM
Scm1
Prep

Find a good sealer and seal over 400 grit 1 nice coat then paint after sealer has dried 15min. The rule is paint over 400-up. I base over 400 some times depending on base, if it's a light metallic paint over 600 or just seal the 400 and then apply base coat. If it's a solid or dark metallic primer sanded with 400 and goooooooo!
11-16-2011 12:57 PM
jcclark Correcting bad info like
"epoxy needing 7 days to cure so you'll have to wait""
is not attacking a post. And never meant to be.
11-16-2011 09:09 AM
shine no problem at all. but i definitely would not skip the epoxy . spray 2 coats and after 24 hours you can wet sand it.
11-16-2011 08:47 AM
skip99 those of us who have painted forever all know about the epoxy windows and recoat times,,my point was that he didnt need epoxy beteen primer and base...and since he said he was following the steps in "the perfect paint job" which say to actually wait between coats of everything so there is no shrinkage.. that is what i was referring to...and yes, some people do it this way...usually not in collision shops, but some do..usually on long term projects here like most of us do..

this is what pisses guys off and makes them quit helping... read the question..post YOUR advice, and quit attacking other posts.
11-16-2011 06:54 AM
deadbodyman No one in the colision biz that is....BTW ,the more you reduce SPI epoxy the faster it cures
11-16-2011 05:59 AM
jcclark
Quote:
Originally Posted by skip99
the epoxy actually takes 7 days to cure...so, unless you are gonna wait (like the perfect paint job) just skip it..
What????
No one waits 7 days to paint over epoxy, in fact, if you do,
you have to sand it again, like the tech sheet says.
(Otherwise you loose adhesion and the paint won't adhere well.)
And that's for SPI epoxy that has a 7 day window.(very unusual)
Most epoxies have only a 24 hr window, meaning, you have to paint over
it within 24 hrs or sanding is required again.
Spray your epoxy, wait till the next day and paint over it,
that's the way it's done.

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com...oxy_primer.pdf
11-15-2011 05:12 PM
bighotroddin I use the Omni epoxy for dealer on some stuff. Mix at a ratio of 2.1.1. I use DT reducer.

You can do the same thing with the DPLF epoxy to.
11-14-2011 02:04 PM
skip99 I believe omni epoxy calls for acetone when thinning...and yes, 2 coats of omni is PLENTY...

if you have feather fill showing...just spray another coat of 2k primer, wet sand.(400 is fine enough) seal and paint...
the epoxy actually takes 7 days to cure...so, unless you are gonna wait (like the perfect paint job) just skip it..
11-14-2011 11:46 AM
jcclark Check your tech sheet on the epoxy,
Some recommend no more than 2 coats at one spray session.
11-14-2011 07:26 AM
deadbodyman Usually the feather fill goes on first then the 2k,I'd use at least 3-4 coats of epoxy to make sure the feather fill is sealed up good then sand with 600 being careful not to sand through then paint,you wont need any other sealer
11-14-2011 07:22 AM
swvalcon If your epoxy wont fill 400 grid I sure wouldn't be using it. You should be able to paint over 400 with at most one extra coat of paint .I do it on use car work a lot. I've used omni epoxy and I wouldn't thin it more than about 10% with a good grade reducer.
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