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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-26-2011 10:30 AM
buggyman
saw

I have one from northern tool it has the swivel arm vice stays in place I too had replaced the original grease with wheel bearing grease only trouble I 've had was the capacitator I ent to get a new one but they are really small ended up get an american one bigger and just got new cover have had it for 8 years and have really worked it HARD
11-26-2011 09:42 AM
bentwings My son and I each have the "old" style HF saws and they both have cut tons of metal. I modified my vertical table with both a wood plate and a steel plate on the table to get the gap between the blade and table down to close to 0. this works for finer cuts especially on aluminum.

The only real trouble I have with both saws is that a small chip can get under the blade and cause it to jump off the big wheels. That was the primary reason for going to the tight gap sub tables.

As far as gear lube...I almost think the stock lube is whale oil. It is the stinkiest stuff on the planet. I replaced mine with standard 90-140 gear lube and it runs great. I do think you are right about the newer ones being lesser quality gears. If the gear wear out maybe McMaster would have a part that would be fitted. You might have to bore the gear or change ratio.

The motors on these are very weak. Hard to believe they are 1/2 hp. A new 1/2 hp motor is nearly the cost of a new saw.
11-26-2011 09:22 AM
tcoop
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
The older HF saws were really good ones but unfortunately the "newer" ones (some as old as 5 years) have really crappy gears that tend to wear out in a hurry. Wash that gunk out with Kerosene, mineral spirits or diesel fuel and then closely examine the gears and the bushings where the worm gear ends go through the box. If the teeth are excessively worn or broken and/or the bushings are worn out that can cause the symptoms you mention. This has been a serious flaw in the newer version of that saw, from about 5 years ago up to and including the ones they have now, and if the gears are excessively worn and/or have broken teeth it very well may not be practical to repair. The worm gear and shaft bushings however are an easy repair if that is the biggest problem, if they are worn the worm gear will slide slightly and the gears will not mesh properly causing that skip you described..

Kind of a coincidence this has come up because I have been meaning to mention this very problem since I have recommended the HF saw several times here in the past, but no more! FWIW, the Clarke brand saw at Northern Tool appears to be identical to the old saws from HF and they are priced about the same, they may be the same saw but I can only say they look to be the same. In any case I have to do a 180 on the HF saw and take back everything good I said about them, the saw they sell now is not the same saw they had 10 years ago when I bought mine.
Thanks for the advice. I also noticed the guy I bought it from didn't have the belt tight. He had it set set so he could switch speeds with little or no effort.
After I get the gears cleaned up, I am hoping that between the belt not being tight and the sticky glue type grease, that it will work like it is suppose to. This machine doesn't look like it has many hours on it at all.

Maybe the grease set up because it had been setting without being used for so long.

Thanks for the advice.
11-25-2011 07:41 PM
oldred The older HF saws were really good ones but unfortunately the "newer" ones (some as old as 5 years) have really crappy gears that tend to wear out in a hurry. Wash that gunk out with Kerosene, mineral spirits or diesel fuel and then closely examine the gears and the bushings where the worm gear ends go through the box. If the teeth are excessively worn or broken and/or the bushings are worn out that can cause the symptoms you mention. This has been a serious flaw in the newer version of that saw, from about 5 years ago up to and including the ones they have now, and if the gears are excessively worn and/or have broken teeth it very well may not be practical to repair. The worm gear and shaft bushings however are an easy repair if that is the biggest problem, if they are worn the worm gear will slide slightly and the gears will not mesh properly causing that skip you described..

Kind of a coincidence this has come up because I have been meaning to mention this very problem since I have recommended the HF saw several times here in the past, but no more! FWIW, the Clarke brand saw at Northern Tool appears to be identical to the old saws from HF and they are priced about the same, they may be the same saw but I can only say they look to be the same. In any case I have to do a 180 on the HF saw and take back everything good I said about them, the saw they sell now is not the same saw they had 10 years ago when I bought mine.
11-25-2011 06:20 PM
rsfyj
just change the lube dont tamper with the shafts etc

Change the blade learn how to adjust the rollers and guides etc,, TIP I always use the slowest cutting speed blades last a long time if you don't get in a hurry. try to always use blades that have 14 teeth per inch they last longer. Blades with ten teeth per inch need a wider cutting surface to last as long. I use strictly 14 teeth per inch blades. The same for saws all, and saber saws for metal. They outlast the others by a wide margin. You will break a few blades until you learn what you need. Have a great time very useful tool
11-25-2011 06:07 PM
tcoop
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsfyj
Don't damage the gasket on the cover if you do use a good gasket sealant Pulsating blade could be adjustments on the wheels etc or look to see if a bunch of teeth are missing on the blade. Hmm i use wheel bearing grease on my saw gear box and have never had a problem the worm travels slower than a wheel on a car using the same lube.
I was able to save the gasket for the cover. Is there a seal that goes around the shaft that the pully connects too? I know the shaft goes through the gear box so I assume there is a seal. The oil that is in the box now is the same consistancy as wheel bearing grease but far more sticky. As I mentioned earlier, this stuff is as sticky or even worse than molasses.
11-25-2011 05:30 PM
rsfyj
Clean it out

Don't damage the gasket on the cover if you do use a good gasket sealant Pulsating blade could be adjustments on the wheels etc or look to see if a bunch of teeth are missing on the blade. Hmm i use wheel bearing grease on my saw gear box and have never had a problem the worm travels slower than a wheel on a car using the same lube.
11-25-2011 05:06 PM
tcoop
horizonal/vertical metal cutting saw

I have a Central Machinery Horizonal/Vertical Metal Cutting Saw, model 93762. It was originally purchased from Harbor Freight, and I picked it up used from someone needing some money. I noticed the pully with the worm gear and gear shaft seemed a little hard to turn by hand. I also noticed the blade seemed to pulsate as it was cutting.

After I pulled the cover off of the worm gear I noticed the gear oil was so think it was almost like putty. It was also very sticky like molasses. It says to replace it with 140 weight gear oil.

My question is about getting the old oil out. Can I use brake fluid or kerosene to clean it out? I don't see where it would be a problem, but I am concerned about any seals that the cleaners might destroy.
Has anyone ever dealt with this before? I could just clean it and hope for the best, but I thought would ask here before cleaning this tomorrow.

Thanks for the advice,
Tom

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