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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-06-2016 05:11 PM
frodin1 Just an UPDATE: I checked the Cooling system pressure and it won't hold anything right now. Caps bad and opens at 11psi, not 16lbs. And the heater core started spewing, so both are on order. Even with that, I was losing pressure pretty quick so I have a feeling that I have either 1 or a few valves leaking. Which wouldn't surprise me. There's a good chance these guys never did anything to the heads I took them. QUESTION: If there's a crack in one of my heads, just assuming here.... Would I be better off purchasing brand spanking new heads, or should I lean towards heads that have been actually rebuilt, pressure tested, 3A valve job, resurfaced, etc? Like I said before I have the head refresher kit from competition so I would buy the heads bare and do the install of valves and springs myself. Cost wise the price is almost the same either fully built or bare. What's your thoughts???? I've heard of people getting brand new heads and intakes before that were bad right off the shelf. I don't want to do this again. Let me know what you'd do? Thanks
05-30-2016 02:07 PM
frodin1 I did the shot of oil into that cylinder trick, and its up to 120 now. So maybe I have a ring that's not fully seated? I've run the engine quite a bit, but it hasn't been really driven. Definitely not 100+ miles worth.
05-30-2016 01:51 PM
frodin1 OK, I got the compression tester and checked the drivers side, starting from front to back, I got 100, 120, 120, &115. I did it twice to make sure. This was done on a cold motor because I actually have to pull the header off to reach the back 2 plugs. Its still 100 degrees out, but whatever. I'm still waiting on the coolant pressure tester to show up, but its looking like somethings wrong with that front cylinder? I've read a few different threads on this, but do I need to re torque the head gasket bolts after break in? Some say yes, some say no?
05-26-2016 09:34 AM
frodin1 I have really no idea,.I got kinda pussed though because I bought the highflow kit off ebay and they ended up putting stock stuff back in. I have all new stainless valves, howard springs new comp locks, and they didnt use it. Its odd too, the hotter it gets the more steam or smoke im seeing. I ordered a new rad pressure test kit and a compression tester. I dont personally know what they did, if anything to the heads? Thats whats got me worried. I did buy them used.
05-26-2016 06:08 AM
jokerZ71 What all was done to the heads during the rework? If the press in studs were replaced with screwin studs,were they properly sealed up?
05-26-2016 04:07 AM
64nailhead There's no water in oil or oil in water because of where the leak is. Either of those things could be occurring with a leaking head or head gasket, but neither of them could be occurring as well, it's all a matter of where and what is leaking.
05-25-2016 04:59 PM
frodin1 Hey thanks for your reply, at least I have a direction to go now. I'll check it out and let you know whats happening
I just found it weird that theres no water in the oil on the cap or radiator? But will check it out. Thanks
05-25-2016 04:37 PM
64nailhead The water pump bypass isn't your issue. Is it building pressure in the colling system? If no, then I'd lean towards the intake gasket causing the issue. Or possbily some silliness going on with the intake itself. Have you pressure checked the cooling system when hot? Have you looked at the plugs? Is one spic and span clean? If yes, then that cylinder is the issue and the head is a very probable issue.
05-19-2016 09:28 PM
frodin1 Trouble and need some foresight,
Im still getting smoke, its most definitly water. No water in the dino oil with break in additive, plugs look ok, they supposedly went through the heads but who know anymore. I could use something to shoot for..... the drivers side smokes pretty bad where as the passenger barely smokes and thats only when reving up. I heard to check my intake gasket since theyre finiky, and possibly valve guides or head cracks? Any thoughs on this issue? Im assuming I have the bypass backward *** cooling is hooked up correctly. So? Im not sure where to start, Im half tempted to just pull the motor and put it back on the stand since its a 3/4 ton and sitting on new 35's. Tall! NEED HELP!!! PLEASE.
04-02-2016 06:34 PM
jokerZ71 Fixing to do this swap as well in my sons truck, but, mine will be a little more complicated as it'a 93 GMC.I'm putting vortecs on an 89 tbi motor converted to roller cam & will be using EFI & the current 4L60e in the truck now.Glad to hear about the power steering pump.Still trying figure out what all I need to about the instrument cluster.
04-02-2016 06:23 PM
frodin1 Yea that's whats on it, as well as a reverse flex fan. I went with a flex fan because the stock clutch fan setup wasn't really inside the shroud, so I extended it and put the flex fan on. I'm just wondering if the by bass system is screwing me up? One thing for sure something isn't right. I figured if it was a head gasket I'd have water in my oil and or the plugs looking bad which everything looks normal. So I'm utterly confused. I guess I'm going to have to pull it back apart. It sucks because it runs perfect. I had the heads done at a local shop, so I'm wondering if I'm having a seat issue. I purchased a rebuild kit off flea bay with all stainless hardware and top notch parts, but they used stock components. I think I'll have a look and see whats going on.
04-02-2016 04:33 PM
Originally Posted by frodin1 View Post
Its been sometime now as I kind of gave up on this project. I'm having a cooling issue, as well as smoke when under high acceleration. Here's my question, since Im using an older block with the newer serpentine setup with vortec heads, should I be using a reverse rotation pump? I read that only some of the serpentine setups used a reverse rotation setup?
This is kinda common sense. Put the belt on the engine. If the water pump turns in the same direction as the crank, you need a conventional pump. If it turns opposite, you need a reverse rotation pump. From your photo (the belt isn't in place), it appears that you need a reverse rotation pump.
04-02-2016 03:09 PM
Need help with this build

Its been sometime now as I kind of gave up on this project. I'm having a cooling issue, as well as smoke when under high acceleration. Here's my question, since Im using an older block with the newer serpentine setup with vortec heads, should I be using a reverse rotation pump? I read that only some of the serpentine setups used a reverse rotation setup? Plus with the reverse setup, I have that funky water pump bypass setup that hooks into the intake manifold. When running , the radiator doesn't seem to have any flow, where as the normal water pumps you can see it moving. I'm trying to think of anything before I start ripping into this thing to see if there's a gasket issue. It runs fine, NO water in the oil, no milk anywhere in the system. If anyone has a clue as where to start, please let me know...... I'm lost. I'm going to pull the numbers off the block later just to see what i'm dealing with. Smoke is'nt oil more of a water vapor. Need someone experienced with this setup. HELP
11-27-2011 05:50 AM
TroyBoy Engine looks nice and you cant go wrong with a Qjet IMO.
11-26-2011 05:30 PM
frodin1 yup, bolted right up to the TH400 I had rebuilt. I've run into a couple snags here and there, but nothing that can't be taken care of.
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