|11-30-2011 09:07 AM|
Tech is pretty darn sharp with this stuff, if you do as he says, please let us know how everything works out. He has been an inspector for NHRA for years and has seen it all.
Did you replace the temp sender? And did you get the right sender? Does the car show signs of overheating, other than the temp sender? I found out the hard wa that there are many many temp senders, all created differently. They work on ohms for the particular gauge they are designed for.
|11-30-2011 09:00 AM|
Sling the flex fan and the electric fan arrangement over the fence. Go to your favorite boneyard and purchase all the stock stuff from the water pump to the radiator from a V8 Nova. Go to Autozone and purchase a brand new fan clutch with thermostat.
Put 20 degrees initial spark timing in at the crank. Modify the advance curve in the distributor to yield a total initial and centrifugal timing of 36 degrees, all in by 2800. If you experience kick-back against the starter due to the initial advance at the crank, cut into the power wire to the coil and install a push-button, momentary-off, normally on switch. To crank the motor, hold the momentary switch down with one hand (cutting juice to the coil) while your other hand operates the start key. Once the motor is twisting up, release the momentary button and key switch and the motor will be running.
|11-29-2011 05:29 PM|
|poncho62||Bet you dont have a fan shroud....sounds like you need one|
|11-29-2011 04:20 PM|
350 chevy overheating
I have a 73 Nova that I built a .030 over 010 motor for. It has .125 dome trw pistons, World Products S/R 202 heads, Comp cam .515 lift-300 duration cam. I have tried a be cool rad., a stock hd rad., flex fan, puller electric fan,a 195 thermostat, and a 180 thermostat. It idles at 1150rpm, and will overheat sitting there with the fan on to 250 plus. I have not driven it yet due to this problem. Any suggestions? I have good circulation in the rad with a new stock H20 pump. Please help before I get out the sledgehammer!