|01-09-2012 05:07 PM|
amen to that man... lol
when i get back home ill try playing with the vacuum advance a little more and see if i can get the can set to where it needs to be. or maybe ill just put a stop in the vacuum because it would probably be alot easier to get my inital to 24 with that than mess with my distrubutor.
its not just a question of max power, im all for that, but i dont want the engine to turn into a grenade either
|01-09-2012 08:07 AM|
|speedbump||Nothing wrong with your timing compromise, IMO. Another thing you could try is a 1" 4 hole spacer on top of that manifold. It could clean up the low end/idle a little for cheap. It did on my tunnel ram, anyway. There have been many apples to apples tests that don't support all the hype about single plane manifolds being so terrible on the bottom end/mid range. Besides, for having your fun, it's an easy give away for how hard it pulls from about 3,500 to 6,500. And that's another reason to keep the total advance at 38 or so as, from my own experience, a couple of brews and some good dirt make the foot heavy and the ears deaf.|
|01-09-2012 05:52 AM|
Here is an example of a dome piston bbc with a set of stock heads requiring 42 degrees of timing for max power.
|01-08-2012 09:20 PM|
lol looking at other posts looks like this aint the first time you two haven't agreed on total timing in bbc's. i googled it and this seems to be a common debate.
i do agree though that i would like to run a little more advance at idle, i'm going to mess around with it a little more when i get back home , heading up north to go to work for a couple weeks.
i just reallly dont like the idea of messing around with the distributor, is there a kit to buy to shorten the curve or do i actually have to braze the slots in?
when i get home i plan to take it out in the woods for a little test drive, maybe i can get some more tuning done while im out there actually running it instead of these lousy driveway tests. lol
|01-08-2012 07:15 PM|
|Custom10||Truck & driver sound right at home in Sask , regardless you need more than 20 deg advance at idle IMO.|
|01-08-2012 06:17 PM|
if i want to get out for a romp on the trail and take er up the hills to my favourite fishing hole thats 40 miles back in the woods, i can.
if theres some trees in my way that need to be politely asked to clear the **** out, the pushbar takes care of that quite nicely
if i want to rip up some mud on the pipeline, she does a pretty good job of that too
and last but not least if i just feel like screwin around on the dirt road goin sideways around any corner i can find, well shes quite perfect for that too
i like to be able to do all this but still take it on the road for when we get those two foot snowfalls, or just feel like drivin my big *** truck through town. lol
i dont do mud drags or competition, the most competion it sees is our local mud runs through the woods once a year and thats just an excuse for us all to get together drink some beers and have some fun haha
ive tried setting it to 38 total and using my vacuum advance to make up the difference, yes i have to adjustable can, just couldnt quite get it working right. im currently not running any vacuum advance.
as 454c10 says i think ill try it with 20 base 40 total, it seems to be pretty good so far was just looking for a second opinion
|01-08-2012 05:32 PM|
|Custom10||yep 2 deg either way is no different|
|01-08-2012 05:24 PM|
|454C10||20 initial and 40 total will work just fine.|
|01-08-2012 05:18 PM|
Do you have a bogger you call a road truck or a road truck you call a bogger? You could lock the timing at 38 and do your WOT mud pulls and call it a day if its a competition truck.
If you have dual purpose truck then power time it to 38 Deg BTDC @ 4000RPM. Go to idle, adjust idle/carb mixture for max vacuum. Note the base timing, add vacuum advance to manifold vac, re adjust carb. How much vacuum advance?
If vacuum adv is adding more than 12 deg timing then limit it with the street fire vacuum adv limiter if you have that kit or get the crane limiter plate.
dont exceed 50 deg total timing advance
If you have 18 base timing and then add the 12 deg vacuum adv at idle you should be sitting pretty with 30 deg at a 900 idle as long as there is enough hg" vacuum to pull in the vacuum can. As the revs come up the mechanical adv will add advance as the vacuum adv drops out, I dont see many boggers idling at any less than 900 with a 4 spd so 1 stiff curve spring in there to avoid adding mech adv at idle, then change the other spring heavy/lite to get the curve right,,,all in by Xperimentation RPM
|01-08-2012 02:21 PM|
hey guys thanks for the advice , unfortunately changing intakes is out of the question right now. and i dont want to change my gears because its a road truck also. if i need more power i can always drop the transfer case to the low side which over cuts my ratios in half (1.00 high side , 2.61, low side)
in first gear on the trans ( not jumbo low , but first which is 16.32 : 1 ) i have absolutely zero trouble ripping the bark off the tires, so in theory i should be able to start off in 3rd or 4th gear in 4 lo , 3rd being a 20.2 : 1 ratio and 4th being 11.9 : 1 ) time will tell i guess. lol
i hit the engine with the vacuum guage and timing light today and it made the most vacuum at 24 degrees inital advance, only problem is my distrubutor ( MSD streetfire 8362 ) comes with 20 * mechanical advance, i tried to go for the happy medium and set it to 20 * initial which gives me 40 total, does anyone think this sounds a bit much? like i said i really cant tell if its detonating or not with the exhaust and all... it sounds alot more responsive though and seems to turn up alot better.
454c10 : it says on the receipt the exhaust valves are ferrea inconel 1.8 exhaust valves , and manley 2.19 intake valves
as always thanks for any advice in advance , my budgets pretty limited atm so just trying to tweak this as best i can with what ive got! lol
|01-08-2012 08:01 AM|
or will he need spacers?
|01-08-2012 07:23 AM|
Well, he built the engine and doesn't want to push it. When you dyno test an engine, you should keep advancing the timing until no more gains are measured.
The things that cause an engine to need more total ignition timing are the following:
1) big bore (long way for the flame to travel)
2) domes or dished pistons (makes the flame travel around uneven terrain)
3) inefficient combustion chambers (makes the flame travel slow)
A BBC with old style cylinder heads and domes will have all these issues. This is why BBC typically are less toleration to high compression as compared to SBC are most other engines.
I have seen dynos of old bbc requiring up to 42 degrees of total timing to make max power. My 454 runs best with 40.
I think your compression maybe lower than 10.5:1.
9cc head gasket (0.039" thick felpro)
4cc piston below deck
(899-29+120+9+4)/(-29+120+9+4)= (899+104)/104=9.64:1 cr
I'm assuming 120cc heads and some -deck height.
your exhaust valves should be 1.9's not 1.8's (I think, as 1.72 or 1.9 are the standard issues exhaust valves for bbc's)
Yes, not enough gear for 44's. You are running "an effective" 2.90 gear due the the extra tall tires. Like a 2.90 gear with 28 inch tire.
|01-07-2012 08:41 PM|
the only thing im worried about is if i put too much timing, would that hurt the engine any? i know not to let it detonate but he said he wouldnt run any more than 36 on it at the shop... maybe hes just a worry wart? lol
also, is there any easy way to tell if its detonating if you cant hear it? my exhuast is really loud and i do well to hear myself talk when its running lol
should i just hook my vacuum guage up and set the timing to where it has the most vacuum?
i did notice on the dyno that it picked up alot of power as we advanced the timing, i think something like 20 horse per every 2 degrees , we hit the 530 mark when we advanced it to 36 but he got worried about advancing it too far after that and didnt go any further, whats up with that? lol
its all forged internals with a good balance job and clevite main and rod bearings with durabond cam bearings , eagle h beam rods and the srp pistons are forged , as well as the gm forged crank that came in the TD...i thought it sounded pretty tough ? lol
i have the limiter set to 6500 RPM , does that sound a little high?
i really do apologize for all these questions im just totally new to all this aftermarket stuff and im looking for input, dont wanna blow a 10,000 dollar engine lol
thanks again for the replies everyone
|01-07-2012 08:18 PM|
yes, low timing.
I would run 25 initial timing at 1000 rpms, 38-40 total mechanical in by 4000 rpms.
and use the vacuum advance if you drive it on the street. Use an adjustable vacuum advance canister set to 10 degrees.
The vacuum advance will not have much vacuum to work with due to the big cam. Will need at least 9 inhg which most likely will not happen that often. Maybe while driving down the highway or revving it up in neutral.
|01-07-2012 06:20 PM|
|b00tz||thanks alot for the reply speedbump. im going to get a timing light and a vcauum gauge from my buddy tommorow and i will definitely try that, i thought it sounded a little low to me too but thats what he set it to on the dyno and i never touched it since|
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