|01-09-2012 12:51 PM|
|bentwings||I think you are right. I'm trying to get there with this machine. It's a new process and it takes a while to get really comfortable with it. I can take 3 different TIG welders and make the same weld with left or right hand and there will be no difference..... It only took 40 years to do that. I don't think I have that much time left. haha|
|01-09-2012 12:20 PM|
|DanTwoLakes||No, you don't have to run your sewing machine really fast, I don't run mine super fast either, unless I need to. It's not about how fast you run the machine, it's the results you get. That being said,..........the less you have to worry about the machine itself, the more you can concentrate on the job at hand, and the better your finished product will be.|
|01-09-2012 11:53 AM|
Dan has already noted the "training wheels" when I first got this machine. I know I have to run it at speed and part of the reason I haven't got the servo is that I'd like to use this as designed. I struggle a bit sometimes but I have figured out how to "bump" it and slip the clutch when necessary otherwise I'm pretty comfortable with the speed it runs at now. This isn't a full time job for me so I never will get up to the "pro" level. I just ask for a little technique help on occasion to cut the learning curve.
This was actually fun and I was amazed at how nice the binding looked compared to the "pro" jobs that were done on two of my cruize buddies A Bone and 35 Ford. These just have the binding rolled over the carpet edge and sewed. While it is ok the stiches aren't especially straight and even and don't give a finished look to their high end stuff. JMHO.
My ride and any other I get will be fiberglass cars and they are considerably more difficult to deal with on the interior and other places. Probably why you don't see many of them with lots of miles on them nor even finished. I already have 18k in 2 years on mine and I drove it a couple days ago in light snow. It's not a show car and was never intended to be one.
Anyway I always appreciate the help and a pat on the back for trying hard is always nice too.
|01-09-2012 10:34 AM|
Guys that do this once in awhile can't be expected to be experts. There's not enough time in the day/life. Gotta cut them some slack and give them kudos for trying . To be a a little dangerous sometimes is good...for me, hire an expert to do it so the work is impeccable. That's always been my mindset, but i'm also USELESS with my hands.
|01-09-2012 09:56 AM|
|DanTwoLakes||NC, you don't understand. Most of these guys want the sewing machine to creep along as slow as is possible. I understand a beginner wanting to slow down a machine that goes 3500 stitches per minute, and you are absolutely right, just putting a smaller pulley on the motor will do that. I also think that at some point, they should want to learn to use the machine the way it was intended, and get away from using training wheels.|
|01-09-2012 06:36 AM|
Great job getting the job done. Hopefully the advice comes in handy. The servo motors are great, but if the purpose of buying a servo motor is just to slow down your machine...simply buy a a smaller motor pulleys. This way you don't go out of pocket on a big expense. Ok hope that helps and good luck
|01-07-2012 11:25 PM|
I ripped off a couple of the messed up 90 deg corners. I used the 2 piece method and it looks ok for this go around. i learned a good bit here.
The gas pedal opening I trimmed it round and sewed a piece of vinyl upside down as shown in the sticky. Then I added contact cement and carefully folded the edges over and lightly cut the edges for a bit more stretch. Then I went back and sewed "in the ditch". Wow,, probably the best part of the whole project.
I know pictures are best but I'm not quite finished so I'll try and take some when I'm done with this temporary install.
Man this machine is fast and powerful. I really need a servo motor but I keep getting budget setbacks. I did use the smaller pulley which helped a lot. Too bad there isn't a miniature "Crowerglide clutch" for these. That I would understand and be able to use. haha
|01-03-2012 10:55 AM|
|DanTwoLakes||You can post all the advise you want, you just can't put your business phone number in your posts.|
|01-03-2012 09:39 AM|
not sure if this post will be allowed but here goes: When you get to corners make a make bisecting cut on the angle. Will free up the carpet for more manueverability...when you sew get in a touch deeper. Don't be afraid to get in deeper. Again if all else fails, hand sew. I'm a sewing machine guy saying that but sometimes when frustrated hand sew! Good luck pal.
|01-03-2012 09:28 AM|
|bentwings||I rounded out the corner for the gas pedal. I'll try putting the binding on it tonight. It's still pretty tight radius. I have one small right angle on the right side carpet behind the seat so it doesn't show. I'll give the multi piece thing a try there. Thanks for the help.|
|01-03-2012 08:26 AM|
Sorry Mal, you can't post your business phone number in the tech forums.
Here is the forum guideline:
"Don't advertise your business. If you are affiliated with an automotive business, you may not post contact information for that business on public board posts, in your custom user title, or in your avatar. Business contact information includes, but is not limited to: physical addresses, phone numbers, email addresses, and URLs. Stating the name of your business is allowed, as long as the name of your business is not identical to any business contact information........."
|01-03-2012 07:55 AM|
Guys that do this for a living have a hard time...so don't worry about it. You're doing great. Advice? Take a hand sewing needle and do the inside rectangle. Will make life easier on you. Hope it works out and if you have any questions give me a ring
Mal @ NC
|01-02-2012 10:26 PM|
You will always have trouble trying to make 90 degree corners, especially inside corners. Everybody has trouble with those type of corners. Round off the ends of the gas pedal slot and you will have a much easier time. OR, you could cut the binding of the four corners on 45 degree angles. Your binding would be in four pieces, and have a seam in all four corners.
It is much easier to sew windlace with a large welt foot than with a zipper foot, (3/4" welt foot for 1/2" sponge rod, 5/8" welt foot for 3/8" sponge rod) but you have to invest about $35 apiece on the welt feet.
Any kind of a welt foot or presser foot will work to sew in the ditch. The thicker the carpet, the harder it is to sew.
|01-02-2012 01:20 PM|
Carpet binding ..need help
I'm just starting my first carpet project. I got the material cut to fit. I read over the carpet tutorial. My first sewing attempt went ok for what it was. The material is a temporary cheap stuff so I get a feel for doing it before the real stuff.
Just for reference I have a Consew 225R that you have already helped me get running. It is smooth and fast.
There is a driver side and a passenger side, both must be removable easily for access to the trans tunnel. This is also removable but the carpet will be glued to it. I have this cut and fitted. There won't be any binding on the hump pieces. The other 2 pieces overlap this so the edges need to have binding on them.
I managed to get the straight section and the gentle curve over the side of the trans hump done including "sewing In the ditch" Easier said than done. It looks like I could have used the welt foot I used to make the windlace to hold it in better alignment. I have a smaller one too...1/4 in I think.
The problem comes when I do the cut out for the gas pedal. This piece of carpet must be removable to get the trans tunnel out. There is a cut out 3" wide by 6 inches long that I really would like to put binding around. It is "U" shaped and open at the top. My first attempt resulted in a folded up mess. haha I just couldn't get the vinyl to go around the 90 deg corner. The binding is probably not optimal as it is fairly heavy vinyl. I could live with making a rounded bottom to this if necessary as it is directly under the gas pedal.
I use aluminum plates with gaskets to cover the steering column and brake pedal openings so those will not be a problem. Also the door opening will have an aluminum angle covering it so I really just needs the edges against the tunnel done.