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What is the strongest glue or epoxy that you have used?

5K views 2 replies 3 participants last post by  mitmaks 
#1 ·
I've found many glue or epoxy products do not hold on moldings or trims as well as they should. I know most shops use 3m double sided tape to re-install body side moldings but they are never as strong as the factory new moldings double sided tape. I've seen some moldings come loose over time with shops using this method.

My experiences with the 3M molding/trim glue have been horrible. Its a squeeze tube glue that looks straight forward but it tends to lose its bind in very hot weather and/or eventually fall off. One of the worst glue products i've used tbh.

I've also seen people use windshield sealer, super glue, Q-bond, JB weld, gorrilla glue for quick adhesive fixes over the above. I know there are 3M 2 part epoxies or glues that i haven't really used much.

I just haven't found a method i completely trust 100% to hold trims, moldings, etc. on to vehicles long term. The double sided tape method which seems to be the most utilized seems very flawed for long term binding. Anyone have anything they can recommend?
 
#2 ·
poodle said:
I've found many glue or epoxy products do not hold on moldings or trims as well as they should. I know most shops use 3m double sided tape to re-install body side moldings but they are never as strong as the factory new moldings double sided tape. I've seen some moldings come loose over time with shops using this method.

My experiences with the 3M molding/trim glue have been horrible. Its a squeeze tube glue that looks straight forward but it tends to lose its bind in very hot weather and/or eventually fall off. One of the worst glue products i've used tbh.

I've also seen people use windshield sealer, super glue, Q-bond, JB weld, gorrilla glue for quick adhesive fixes over the above. I know there are 3M 2 part epoxies or glues that i haven't really used much.

I just haven't found a method i completely trust 100% to hold trims, moldings, etc. on to vehicles long term. The double sided tape method which seems to be the most utilized seems very flawed for long term binding. Anyone have anything they can recommend?
I have to tell you, if you use the two sided tape properly, it will NEVER come off and perform the same as the original one did. Of course doing it PROPERLY is the key.

1. Use the white 3M (or equivalent) tape.
2. Clean off the old glue! You MUST have a smooth surface to apply the tape.
3. Use the 3M (or equivalent) Adhesion promotor.
4. Clean the surface it will be sticking to ESPECIALLY if the paint has been cut and buffed! I will see guys go out and stick the moulding on a car that has just been detailed without cleaning the surface!
5. Be sure the surface isn't cold, warm it up if you have to.

Funny you should bring this up I just had a customer pull back in front of the office yesterday and come in to tell me the moulding was falling off the car that he just picked up the day before. I pulled the moulding off the rest of the way, (it was only held on by a small piece of tape) to see the tech had not cleaned off the old tape, not even close! The tape sure stuck well to the nice new paint though.

I have another tip that I have used for years, put a little daub of urethane (window setting urethane) at the end of the moulding before you stick it on.

One of the biggest tips I have is to know when you can re-tape a moulding and when it needs to be tossed and replaced with new. If it is a metal backed one for instance, like Ford and GM have used, toss it and replace.

Brian
 
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