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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-08-2013 09:12 PM
sbchevfreak If it is plugged that bad, it would need to be removed, have the tanks off and rodded. Which would cost more than a replacement rad. Not worth it imho.
10-14-2013 06:07 PM
Aaron-71
Quote:
Originally Posted by LATECH View Post
Put a radiator in it. Its done.
New rad or could the old one be cleaned out and reused?


Dishing out another $100 for a new rad would suck... Spending an afternoon cleaning my old one out isn't so bad.
10-14-2013 06:01 PM
LATECH Put a radiator in it. Its done.
10-14-2013 05:14 PM
Aaron-71
Quote:
Originally Posted by LATECH View Post
If the heater blows good hot air , then the water pump is circulating water.
Hot top hose and cold bottom hose means nocirculation of coolant through the radiator
SO...that leaves the thermostat not opening or a plugged radiator. My bet is the radiator, but I would still re check the t stat before spending any cha ching on a radiator.
Radiator is probably plugged with block sealer from someone trying to fix the head gaskets with a mechanic in a can.
Well I think I might be confirming a blocked radiator since my last post... Got some new info.

I let my car run for a bit longer than I normally like to (needle touching the red on the temp gauge), and all of the sudden my driver side fan kicked in.

So I thought, well what the heck... So I tried to turn the A/C on to see if the other fan would turn on. Sure enough, the passenger side fan came on.

So I let the car keep running to see if the temp would go down. It didn't, just kept slowly slowly slowly climbing.

I went to the rad, touched the top of it without taking my fingers off with the fan, ice cold. Touched the bottom between the fans, ice cold. Touched the upper rad hose that connects to the thermostat housing, red hot.

Opened the bleeder valve on the driver side... Instant antifreeze flying out at high pressure.

Touched the bottom rad hose below the water pump, red hot.

Touched the radiator a couple more times to reconfirm that I wasn't crazy... And it's still ice cold.


So I figure I've got to go down one of the following roads:
1) the rad is blocked and won't allow full circulation of the antifreeze

2) the coolant temp sensor isn't reading the antifreeze temp correctly, possibly because the voltage of dex-cool reads differently than the green coolant I've got in there (unlikely, but possible). This would make the fans not turn on at the correct voltage reading (temperature) via the coolant temp sensor.

3) The temp gauge is incorrect/not working properly.


I'm leaning to the fact that the rad is plugged and likely is... If the upper rad hose is hot, and there's pressure at the upper rad hose bleeder, then the thermostat MUST be working. I have confirmed that it indeed does work before installing by putting it in boiling water and watching it open before my eyes.

I'm also leaning towards the rad being plugged because the upper rad hose, upon second touch (after touching an ice-cold radiator with the fans blowing), was still red hot. This would mean that the upper rad hose never received any of the cooler antifreeze and it is thusly blocked.


Comments?
10-14-2013 04:47 PM
LATECH If the heater blows good hot air , then the water pump is circulating water.
Hot top hose and cold bottom hose means nocirculation of coolant through the radiator
SO...that leaves the thermostat not opening or a plugged radiator. My bet is the radiator, but I would still re check the t stat before spending any cha ching on a radiator.
Radiator is probably plugged with block sealer from someone trying to fix the head gaskets with a mechanic in a can.
10-14-2013 01:53 PM
Aaron-71 Couldn't edit my last post... Double post!

Started the car and checked the radiator after the car tried to overheat again and found that the bottom of the radiator is cool and the top is warmer (closer to the temp of everything else on the top end of the engine).

Blocked radiator?

I checked it with a garden hose and it had water coming out of it at all ends (still installed in the car test only).

I didn't mention in my last post that I have also changed out my water pump because it was bad/leaking.
10-14-2013 12:43 PM
Aaron-71 I don't normally like to bring up old threads, but I could really use some assistance with this one...

I've got a cooling issue with my 3.1L 1996 cutlass supreme.

Any opinions/comments are welcomed cause this one has me stumped.

Things I've checked/changed out:

1) NEW Coolant temp sensor
2) NEW Thermostat - I know it works cause I put it in boiling water and it opened
3) NEW Head gasket set installed + NEW Fel-pro Lower Intake Manifold Gasket (problem-solver stainless steel set) installed.
4) NEW oil pump drive shaft gasket + cleaned & rtv'ed around the top flange to help seal it
5) Checked fan relays, they all work
6) checked for radiator blockages by pouring water down rad with different ends undone each time - no blockages.
7) hot air blows hot.
8) A/C blows cold
**** 9) A/C fan will not turn on if A/C is turned on (passenger side fan)
**** 10) Driver-side fan will not kick in until the car hits the red zone on the temp gauge.

All of these things were done to try and solve my overheating (gauge pings to red zone) issues with my car. I've changed out the dex-cool coolant for green stuff and I'm still getting overheating issues. I've bled a lot of air out the system...

Anyone have any suggestions on things to check next? I've done a lot of work to the car, and put it all back together only to find out that the issue still remains...
05-21-2013 06:46 PM
LATECH Its all good .
05-21-2013 06:35 PM
mario1212 thank you latech and sorry for the capitol letters
I did not know that
thank you .
05-21-2013 06:03 PM
LATECH Yes , system is operating normally Mario.

BTW when you type in capitol letters it is the equivalent of yelling.
If you are Gilbert Godfried I understand LOL
Just sayin
05-21-2013 05:59 PM
mario1212 THANKS FOR ANSWERING MY QUESTION (( LATECH )))

1
Moving along at freeway speed, the temp gauge stays at 1/2 right?

¨¨YES IS CORRECT ¨¨

2 When you get off the freeway and are in city traffic , the gauge moves up to about 3/4 then back down ... correct?

¨¨YES IS CORRECT ¨¨


3 I STOP AND LOOK UNDER THE HOOD WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING
AND THE GAUGE WAS 3/4 I SEE THE FAN TURN ON AND THE GAUGE GO BACK DOW TO 1/2 IS THAT NORMAL ?
05-21-2013 04:45 PM
LATECH mario....first you need to slow down on your thinking and type more complete/coherent sentences so we can understand them.
I think I can decipher your post anyhow.
Moving along at freeway speed, the temp gauge stays at 1/2 right?
this is normal on your van.
When you get off the freeway and are in city traffic , the gauge moves up to about 3/4 then back down ... correct?
This is also normal. When your gauge is at 3/4 you should stop and look under the hood with the engine running and you should be able to see the fan running, which will cool the temp back to 1/2 gauge.
All normal
05-20-2013 11:59 PM
mario1212 i have 2004 oldsmobile silhouette my coolin fan turn on let if i driving on the city the cooling fan turn on 3/4 but if i driving on the freeway the temperatur stay on 1/2 i drive for 1 or 3 hour or more the tempreratur stay on 1/2 but wend i come of the freeway the temperatur go to 3/4 and back to 1/2 can you help me please
01-24-2012 07:29 PM
T-bucket23 If the A/C is on I think the fans should run. You could have a defective fan or relay. If they are not turning they can actually deter air flow. I would test the fan with a couple jumper leads or remove the fan relay and jump the 30 to the 87A terminal in the relay socket. This should force the fan on. As Latech said your radiator may be partially plugged as well.
I would test the function of the fan first and go from there.
01-24-2012 05:13 PM
LATECH Sounds like your radiator is really plugged up.Look in the end with the cap off. Check the tube openings inside,if they are covered with a white crusty looking crud, then it is plugged.
To confirm the pluggage, if the engine is good and warm,stop the car and open the hood, if the radiator feels cold at the bottom and kinda warmer toward the top , it is plugged,it should be pretty warm to the touch if the water is flowing through it well. No need to guess, just feel it to see.A cold radiator is a plugged radiator
BTW, if the AC was turned on, the fan may not kick on as it comes on according to head pressure, which will be real low on cold days.That is why it didnt come on.
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