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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-24-2015 04:23 PM
Originally Posted by waynep712 View Post

in fact.. will a moderator remove all of my replies please..

thank you .. bye.

Your information is Good and quite valid.
You have been able to articulate a bit better for the OP than I have.
Your info is good....It stays.
Thanks Wayne.... for lending a hand

10-23-2015 08:23 PM
austinv hello, and guys, Thank you for all that. I must inform tho, I am still in a mess.

here's the skinny, I rebuilt entire engine, replaced crank and cam, rings, all bearings, re manufactured heads, new time gears sprockets chain. I am so crazy frustrated i don't know how to explain.

As far as the timing goes. I'm sure the time chain is correctly mounted. The number one cylinder tdc on the compression stroke has number six cylinder at top also. both valves are closed. achieving the compression stroke is when you hit tdc both 1 and 6, then turn the engine one revolution and there both up again and valves are closed for number 1 cylinder. that and i lined up the dots 12 and 6 on chain install, this means i matched the dots rite next to each other.

OK, test results, cam sensor, when volt meter is hooked up, key on, hand turn engine, I achieve intermittent 12 volts each full revolution of turning the crank. i tested crank sensor power to it was there, however, the crank sensor did not give a signal when hand turning the crank, so i bought a new crank sensor, same problem, no fix. I am not getting spark however there is power to the coil wires.

As you can imagine. I am frustrated. Anyone please study this post and give me a clue.
Oh, the distributor has no rotor, its the oil pump drive and cam sensor type only with a stamped number 8 on the shell under cap where a rotor would typically go. so there's only one way it sinks down and it is while #1 tdc on compression stroke and the number * is a the 4-5 o'clock position. it wont sink any other way. PLEASE, ANYONE INCLUDING WHO HAS ALREADY HELPED> INFORM ME THE ERRORS OF MY WAYS
10-23-2015 10:21 AM
Hogg Thanks for the clarification, I just didn't know what "the cap does i take it come off that..." meant

10-22-2015 07:57 PM
Originally Posted by Hogg View Post
Pardon me? What did you mean here?


there are 2 screws, the exact same ones that hold the distributor cap down , that are holding the cover on the top of that version of the vortec distributor..

even though there is NOT a proper distributor cap... that cover still has to come off... a rotor installed... to allow proper alignment of that housing to get the shaft in phase..

the rotor is removed and the odd cover reinstalled to finish the installation..

its exactly the same as putting in the ford 3.0 oil pump drives with the cam sensor on the top.. except those you have to have one of the 4 special tools to allow you to get it in and turn the housing to make it align..

i don't have one of those distributors to pull the cover off.

in fact.. will a moderator remove all of my replies please..

thank you .. bye.
10-22-2015 06:39 PM
Originally Posted by waynep712 View Post
the cap does i take it come off that...

Pardon me? What did you mean here?

10-22-2015 03:42 PM
69612 the cap does come off ,remove it and under the cap is a conventional Vortec shaped distributor shaft..
10-22-2015 12:12 PM
Hogg Picture of the Vortec 454 L21 camshaft position sensor holder. Pretty much a normal Vortec 454 distributer assembly with a different cap on it.

ACDELCO p/n 213350 or GM p/n 1104068

10-22-2015 08:07 AM
Hogg To help any people working on the Vortec L21 BBC in the future, this is Austin's original post before this 3 year old post was dug up.

10-21-2015 08:33 PM
69612 for this topkick motor.. you need a VORTEC rotor to align the shaft when installing the distributor.. . it can be an old one.. it can be a new one..

if you look carefully.. there are 2 screws holding a cover on the top of the housing.. where the distributor cap would normally be.. under that is a conventional Vortec distributor shaft.. its probably drilled and tapped for a conventional vortec rotor..

you may now proceed as a normal vortec distributor installation.. getting the rotor to point at the \8/ in the inside of the lip of the housing..

warning... if with the crank at TDC with compression at #1.. if you cannot get the shaft to align perfectly.. DO NOT MODIFY the hold down clamp..

remove the distributor.. mark the gear on the same side as the rotor tip is installed on the top of the shaft... drive the roll pin out.. do not remove the gear.. rotate it 1/2 turn and install the roll pin.. the mark you made on the distributor gear should now be pointing the other direction..

when you install it this time.. once you get the distributor to engage the oil pump shaft and the rotor pointing in the proper direction. you should have the tip pointing directly at the \8/ on V8 models or the \6/ on V6 models..

if you have NO compression.. something else may be wrong.

if you have NO spark... something else may be wrong..

the crank sensor sends the PCM crank position signal..

the cam sensor sends the pcm cam signal to allow it to figure out which of the coils to fire... also which of the injectors to fire..

a question.. did all the ground wires get hooked up to the engine.. there are usually some along the back of the cylinder heads... those are the PCM Negative connections.. no hook up there. the PCM won't get any electrons to operate the computer.
10-21-2015 06:29 PM
LATECH Compression is only 45 PSI. It will never run.
You must have the cam/crank timing off, or the valves are to tight.
If the cam/crank timing is off, you cannot successfully time the distributor on this engine to make it run. It simply wont fire the ignition because it (The ECM)knows the crank timing is wrong.
Get to the bottom of the compression problem first, then go back to the timing sequence as outlined.
The distributor housing willonly allow the holdown to hold the dizzy when the housing is in one spot, so getting the rotor to aim at the correct place (that little number 8 on the housing with crank at TDC number 1 cylinder compression stroke) will be key.
If you have had the bottom gear off the dizzy and don't have it on correctly (180 out) it will also not run and can cause engine damage.
10-21-2015 05:48 PM
austinv its a 1999 gmc C6500 top kick fresh rebuild, no spark, and I meant to say, (on the compression stroke in my previous forum script. Man, anyone help me get spark?
10-19-2015 06:26 PM
454 big block timing cap confusion continue

yes, its a 1999 gmc topkick total nightmare. i've just finished a complete removal and rebuild, its all back in, and i'm having trouble even getting spark, compression is only 45 lbs. everything has been torqued to specs and new bearings, rings, gaskets throughout and rebuilt heads. I did it rite, Now I am going to freak out unless this thing comes alive. help
10-19-2015 05:18 PM
LATECH what year make and model do you have. It must be newer than the OPs .
More info needed
10-18-2015 08:48 PM
454 dizzy number 8 ???

guys, There is no rotor on this distributor. how the hell can you put or point an invisible, non existent rotor at anything? There's no contacts on these. its electronic. This is an incomplete forum.
SO, the real question is, after the number 1 piston is on the exhaust stroke, backed up to 14 degrees btdc, Where does the number 8 on the dizzy, (metal top of distributor), go, or point to? before i put the flat plastic top cap on. there are no wires to this, This engine has coils on each cylinder.
Please inform me im sure its stupid obvious. Thanks
10-18-2015 08:04 PM

yes, I would like to know the answer to that question also.
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