|03-01-2012 11:11 AM|
cool your TIG torch
Just hook a solenoid to your torch and have it turn on when you start the arc. hook the inlet of the solenoid to your tap water and the outlet to your sink drain. It doesn't use that much water and it is always cool water going to the torch. Another advantage is no noise. I did it this way with my Miller Aircrafter (450 amp machine).
|02-11-2012 10:03 AM|
Before building the cooler I just had to stop every now and then to let it cool.
To properly let the torch cool as soon as I stopped I pulled the torch apart to help is cool.
|02-11-2012 09:42 AM|
Thick aluminum is a challenge and using Helium does make for quicker heating and increased penetration. When Lindie invented the Tig welding process they called it Heliarc welding because Helium was the primary shielding gas. Other gasses became more practical and Heliarc Became Tig, just be sure not to get Helium use to fill balloons. I use a hand held propane torch from the hardware when welding thick aluminum such as heads. All these tips are good to know and thanks for the post. There is no substitute for experience.
|02-11-2012 08:21 AM|
heavy metal welding
A couple of tricks I've used for thick aluminum when the machine just isn't big enough. Obviously, heating the part will help but sometimes isn't practical.
You can use helium as a shielding gas. It'll make a hotter weld pool. Bad thing is it's expensive, you have to use more of it and it's less stable. To fix that, I've run a mix with argon. You need 2 flow meters and a splitter. I'll run 5-10 CFH He & 10 CFH Ar. Helps with the above problems. There's also the trick of running 100% He and DCSP. Everything has to be cleaner than clean and absolute control is a must. Not for amatures.
|02-05-2012 03:27 PM|
Kool Hand Tig
I have used baby tigs many times for field work where access limits equipment with no overheating. Aluminum is totally different. For most shop work buy an ac/dc water cooled unit with high frequency. There are still older millers and lindie's out there that will give you all you need in a welder. From the projects you've shown there should not have been an overheating problem with a water cooled unit. This usually happens on thick aluminum. If the torch starts getting warm slow down and let the water circulate. Just remember to keep your project hot, it will melt easier and let your torch stay cooler. A good welder can be a costly item but will give a refund every time you use it.
|01-29-2012 08:22 AM|
Thanx for sharing your homemade rig.
I'm looking at building a cooler for my Miller also.
So, I looked up a ProCon pump on ebay. There's alot available from 500.00 to less than 50. Which one do you have??
|01-29-2012 07:27 AM|
When I built mine I used a transmission cooler, aluminum water tank, and a fountain pump that was medium size. It needs to be pushing the water after it is cooled not pulling heated water and the stream needs to be about 1/8 inch in diameter that shoots about 1 foot horizontally (farmer tech) for pressure. I used this a few years with no problems except the noise. The trans cooler didn't even need a fan unless I was welding heavy aluminum at 200 amps for a long time.
I'd still be using it if it wasn't so loud that I had trouble hearing the phone ring over it.
|01-28-2012 10:32 PM|
|SuthnCustoms||Subscribed to this thread...Buyin a brand new HTP Invertig 221 soon to have around for aluminum work and other TIG needs,i will also be interested in building my own cooler setup|
|01-28-2012 10:27 PM|
Water coolers are not built into machines,they are add-ons for the TIG torch to keep it cool
|01-25-2012 04:03 PM|
|01-25-2012 03:58 PM|
Here is a tig cooler I built and saved a bundle.
Buy a procon pump from ebay (new $50.)
I bought a 1/3hp motor and modified it to have a fan blade on the other end.
If you build one have make sure you only run it at 50 PSI or you can blow the torch lines.
|01-25-2012 02:38 PM|
The worst seems to be Aluminum for me. I get into the habit of welding a while then setting the torch down to cool. When I set the torch down to cool I always disassemble it to keep the heat saturation down.
The bummer is once I get the aluminum up to temp where it is welding well I have to let the torch cool.
Next thing that happens, I short out the torch on other projects where it melted.
Here are 2 things which pretty much tore up this torch:
|01-25-2012 02:22 PM|
Water cooled tig rig
I don't see how you guys are burning up tig rigs. I have been welding since 1973 and haven't seen a water cooled rig since 1978, in the field. I welded on stainless pipe all day, day in and day out. When it gets too hot to hold in your hand with a heiliarc glove just lay it down and let it cool off. I do use gloves, one reason is the heat, and the other is skin cancer. No tee shirt either. You couldn't use a water cooled rig in the field because of the problem with moving all over the place, up down and all around. Some of the new rigs are as small as a lunch box. Most are only as big as a suitcase and weight 40 to 60 pounds. All are air cooled.
|01-25-2012 05:32 AM|
After some research I got this one:
|01-25-2012 04:09 AM|
I have built a couple and finally gave up and bought a Miller coolmate 1 because it's fan was quieter. My shop built ones cooled well but after a few hours of the pump grinding away it would just make you mad. I figured the shop hours and the cost of the parts of my shop built tank just didn't save me much over the cost of the miller which ran about $500 when i bought it. If I had city water to my shop I would have hooked up a solenoid to the water line and used the city water which then can be recycled to the garden or just down the drain, and doesn't make any noise. The coolmate fits well under my Dynasty 200 and has been trouble free.
That being said your unit looks very well engineered and built- good job!
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