|02-02-2012 10:27 PM|
|stich626||next time.. take an air hammer and let it pound on the head of the bolt a little, this breaks the bond.. and out zee comes|
|02-02-2012 10:19 PM|
I have had a set I got from snap-on for years and years
I think they have worked twice,
I almost always have to use the ez-outs still
(but maybe they are loosing it up for the ez-outs)
|02-02-2012 05:30 PM|
I'd guess what caused the bolt to seize was it had no thread sealant on it when assembled and the threads go into the water jacket. I've had them snap off nearly flush, but they don't take much to get out once the head is off.
I keep a set of lefthand drill bits just for these scenarios. Drilling the broken remaining bolt progressively larger with a LH bit does a good job, and when the hole is large enough the bit usually catches it and turns it right out without an easyout.
|02-02-2012 04:22 PM|
Stuck Head bolts
I use BLASTER for all my stuck metal and it works great. MUCH better than WD-40 or others. Like any good "medicine", it looks bad and smells a bit too, but with a little PATIENCE and maybe 2-3-4 soakings, I get 'whatever' out. Been working on problems like this for over 50 years. Do this before grinding head off. Use NEW bolt set when replacing heads.
|02-01-2012 04:31 PM|
Longest Breaker Bar
was when I was in the heating business I used a 12 foot black pie over the handle of an Aircraft Aluminium Pipe wrench on a 2 inch pipe on a steam boiler it finally came lose.
|01-28-2012 08:26 PM|
|Blazin72||There you go. Our suggestions pissed you off enough to get the job done. That means we accomplished something!|
|01-28-2012 08:00 PM|
|01-28-2012 07:45 PM|
glad you got it
stuff like that really sucks
|01-28-2012 07:36 PM|
All this talk of drilling out the bolt and stuff, I got kinda pissed at the prospect of all that work for one bolt. So I went to Advance Auto and bought a 3 1/5 foot breaker bar, and these awesome sockets that remove stripped bolts. Having a little fire under you does wonders, it jerked right out. On a forum I read, it says that this came from the seal failing, and coolant getting in the grooves. Then mineral deposits formed that "cemented" it in. When I pulled it, I can see why, there was more mineral deposit than thread. I tried to get a pic, but they all turned out bad. Anyways, thanks all for the help!
|01-28-2012 05:44 PM|
|FmrStrtracer||Use impact sockets and a big breaker bar, not thinwall chrome. Try to tighten the bolt a bit first, then remove. If no luck, drill the head as mentioned above, and break the top off, then remove the remnants with a big pipe wrench.|
|01-28-2012 02:36 PM|
Are you using six point sockets?
If all else fails try center punching the head of the bolt and drill it just enough to get the bolt head off.
|01-28-2012 02:03 PM|
|JMSTOY||It's the bolts between the spring and lifter. And the other one is the corner one that's recessed in the head.|
|01-28-2012 01:51 PM|
this same problem happend to me, i grinded the top of the bolt off then used a pipe wrench to take out the bottom half of the screw the smaller pipe wrench didnt do the job bigger one took it out with ease. good luck
|01-28-2012 01:42 PM|
|poncho62||Sounds like the threads are binding.....Might have to grind the head off the bolt, lift the head off and work from there.|
|01-28-2012 01:36 PM|
Impossible head bolt! HELP!
So I'm taking the heads off my 78 350. I have two top head bolts that are stuck TIGHT! I'm mean tight, I broke two sockets on them, and they are starting to get a little rounded, so I stopped. I also hit it with the impact, to no avail. And tried to carefully heat the block around them, but no dice either. I'm stuck, please help.