|04-15-2014 12:19 PM|
|04-15-2014 06:53 AM|
goog looking wagon.
over the years we have had a 48 Jeepster, acturally still have it, a jeep wagon, a jeep pickup, a jeep 3/4 ton pug nose FC, The jeepster has gone thru a lot of swapsm changes, is now presently on a full size blazer chassis and that was a lot of work. I cut out the radiator mounting box like you did when I put in a Buick Nail head back in the mid 60's and had some cracks start to show up in the front -grille headlight panel, so I added some square tube, formed a bit across the top. a straight piece of 1/2 across the bottom.
Jeepster rear fenders molded on the rear look good and clear big tires but you have already painted the body.
|04-14-2014 06:18 PM|
She's coming along nicely.
|04-14-2014 05:36 PM|
"The thread that won't die!"
I'm baaack! Got a ton of work done on the Willys. A few pics:
|07-06-2013 09:42 AM|
|07-06-2013 08:31 AM|
Coming along nicely. Are you gonna get some fatter tires for the back?
They look like they're recessed quite far in.
|07-05-2013 07:35 PM|
Welcome back Old Thread... Willys is slowly coming along. The S-10 chassis fit surprisingly well. Did measurements and called AFCO--had a alum radiator and 3000 cfm e-fan that fit perfectly. Next up is an Ididit tilt column and custom gas tank then headers. Already did 2" front drop spindles and blocks for the rear. Everything on the suspension gone through and rebuilt/replaced... a few pics:
|04-11-2013 07:45 AM|
steering problems with S-10 swaps
I started a S-10 frame swap with a '39 Ford fordor body years ago. Just gets worked on intermittanley. I made a plywood template to match the stock frame and laid it on the S-10 frame and cut it to match the top profile. Channelled the body over it for a better stance.Located the motor mounts to put my 2007 5.3 with 1802 miles on it so it was close to the firewall. Looks good but the steering is driving me nuts.Tried moving the box over 2 1/4" and tilted it just a little. That, even with the center link lengthed in the proper spot, caused too many issues with the way the steering moves. Now I am working on installing a center-steer rack and when I figure out how to turn the hydraulic control part for better hose placement, hopefull I can continue at a much faster pace since I retired two months ago. Martinsr, I agree with 90% of your posts. At the time I was a single dad with my son in a private school. It was S-10 or nothing. Now I am much better financially and wish I still had my stock frame.I am above average at fabrication and have many resources available so I hope I can make this work. Thanks to everyone for all the comments on this. Steve
|04-05-2013 10:48 PM|
Hey Guys! I'm back... had a pretty bad car wreck last March. Kid pulled out in front of me when I was driving 50 mph with no warning--didn't even get my foot on the brake before BOOM! Anyway, a busted up right wrist and two subsequent surgeries, a cast for 3 months and 2 months of missed work and income (self employed with 2 kids in college) put the brakes on the Willys project. Finally got started again last month.
To update: the S-10 frame is easily adjustable, just cut out a couple welds and the frame slides to the needed length, the re-weld. Had to fabricate new body mounts to match the Willys body mount points. Cleaned, blasted and painted the frame. Replaced all bushings and had to do surprisingly little cutting on the body to get it to set down properly. It is now a complete rolling assembly. All focus recently has been on fabbing and replacing floor pans, fabbing a new trans tunnel to fit the tranny (used a section of the Old's hood and bent it to shape--worked perfect) and fitting welding in patch panels for the rear quarters that were rusted out.
Still have a TON of work to do... wiring, brake lines, instruments, A/C, interior, paint, etc, etc. But it is coming along! Hardest decision so far has been chosing a color. My wife wanted '67 Corvette Sunfire Yellow... I chose late model GM Torch Red and will paint the top above the drip rail something like Wimbledon White. Tan interior (re-upolstered Porsche Recaro buckets) should really look good. Can't wait!
|04-05-2013 09:37 PM|
i found on my willys wagon that a s10 needed motor moved to clear radiator,,,plus w.b. adj. and firewall mod.
so i found a 2001 taco in boneyard with same 104 inch w.b. for 225 bucks
willys fit perfect except for 1 ft. in back floor needed notched 3 inches for frame rails. i moved rad forward to clear fan on my hiperf. ford 2.3 1985 with c4 auto. headers...23mpg 65mph, power rack on taco is located behind xmember so u cant see it. nice stk. a-arms too.
no more s10 swaps for me,,,toyota tacoma better fit,,,straight frame,,,power r/p steering
|02-12-2012 03:04 PM|
Great stuff!!! Gives me lots to think about. I picked up the S10 yesterday--very straight '95 roller for $300... my stock frame is "quite used". Butchered somewhat for a V-8 swap in the '50's, too many rough off-road excursions to count, several rust-through areas that will need repair/patching, holes cut through with a cutting torch for exhaust--you get the picture. Planning on pulling the S10 body this week and taking a lot of measurements before any work procedes. If the fit is not good enough or the 'extra mods' are too onerous--I will repair the stock frame and add the MII-style front susp/brakes.
I live in west Texas... no such thing as a short drive by most standards out here. Will be driving to shows/rod runs in Dallas, Austin, Lubbock, etc. 3-400 mile round trips at 70 mph will be the norm. I have driven in several restored Willys with the orig suspension/brakes. No thanks. Even if I do end up keeping the orig frame I will be definitely going with IFS/discs.
|02-12-2012 01:34 PM|
Aftermarket IFS vs S10 chassis
Looks means a lot to everyone especially the guy driving (me). I hate to see those swaps where the tires are sticking out from under the front fenders. I always say to myself, there is a Camero, Monte Carlo, Malibu or etc swap where the guy didn't measure well and can not afford to buy offset wheels or doesn't know how to narrow the front end.
Almost everyone advised me to put disc brakes on my dropped axle '29 roadster. I didn't like the look. I wanted the "old" 50's Hot Rod look but I wanted something better than the old "juice" brakes. So I put '53 F100 backing plates, radiased the inside bearings and used '66 F100 shoes and hardware. I have the look I wanted and I have self adjusting drum brakes on the front as well as the back. And it stops well enough for me. The disc brakes would have been about the same price.
I drive the '29 maybe 100 miles a month even in good weather. I put 250K miles on my 94 Jimmy and never minded the ride. So on my '48 two door I opted for an S10 front clip because I want to drive it long distances, it was in my price range and capabilities. I opted to put my money into the swap rather than into repairing the '48 suspension. But that's just me, someone else may want to go another way. And that OK.
|02-12-2012 12:55 PM|
|02-12-2012 12:50 PM|
This is one of the biggest issues, What does the builder REALLY want? As far as the ride and drive, what is the builders expectations and uses of the car? Is he going to be pulling a trailer? Is he going to be a race car? Or are we just talking about a driver? A car that will be cruising to work once in a while or to a local show?
Do you need to change everything to do that?
I drive a stock brake and suspension 50 year old car every day. It stops just fine, but handles like crap. I get into my wife's Caravan and it feels like a Z06 Vette compared to my car. But I am fine with that, I drive down simple surface streets, I don't need anything more. But this is me, what does the guy building the car REALLY need?
Is it to drive like I do everyday with only an occasional long trip? Why build the car for that occasional long trip when 99% of its road time will be in such a way that the stock or near stock suspension will be fine?
Is it's "Function" all that matters? Or is the looks also important to them? Do they need to tell people all the great things they did? (I am not knocking this, just being realistic.)
I recently bought this Caravan and I bought something a little less than I had been planning on buying. I had a larger mini van, it had rear a/c, and I wanted at the very minimum that rear a/c. But I also had planned on "stow and go" seating (seats that fold down under the floor creating a loading area) I had been thinking about getting a new van for quite some time and this was a MUST have, why not? It was the best of both worlds and I wanted that. Well, we went looking and found this real nice Caravan, SUPER nice low mileage car. It had no rear a/c and no stow and go seats.
But I also learned that I would have to have the longer wheel base "Grand Caravan" to have that a/c and stow and go seats. I got to thinking, how often do I use the rear a/c in my current van, not often. But more important, how often do I REALLY need it? Well, a few times on road trips out in Arizona or something, why worry about the a/c when I use it so little of the time the van is used? Then I thought about the stow and go, I have a friggin utility trailer, do I REALLY need this storage in the van? When have a REALLY missed it? ONCE, one time I remember picking up an antique desk after a very long drive and wishing I had the room for another piece he had. So REALLY, do I need the stow and go? This van is used about 99% of the time driving kids to school and local outings. The little shorter van will make THIS use easier. So why buy the one that makes the 1% of it's use easier? That made no sense to me and I immediately after realizing this made the decision very easy. I bought the shorter van and we love it. My wife has commented on how much easier it is go maneuver thru parking lots and such, it was a MUCH better choice.
That is what we have to think about, do we REALLY need that modern front clip or frame?
I can't help but think of that co-worker with the super nice driving I beam axled Chevy AD who changed it all because someone talked him into him "needing" to make it "easier" to work on because they couldn't figure out an oil leak in the 235 six. He has had nothing but trouble since with brake problems, cooling problems, etc. All this means of course is the guy who couldn't figure out the oil leak in the old motor hasn't the skills to do the swaps either. double rolling eyes smilie But he is damn sorry he swapped it all, and I am doing my best to get the dropped axle and 55 Chevy rear end he pulled out for MY truck!
|02-12-2012 12:28 PM|
One also has to weigh in appearance and ascetics when he is done and the finished project is being driven on the road and taken to events if that is the plan. That is on reason I am more inclined to want to go with and aftermarket crossmember kit rather than a bulky chassis and front crossmember or subframe.
I did run a Camaro subframe under the front of my 48 for a number of years and it drove like a slot car on a good track but I didn't like the clunky look of it nor the hassle with the front sheet metal.
I'm not totally anti S-10 as I have a spare AD truck cab and pieces that may go on one in the future but the price of S-10 doners in this area has skyrocketed to the point where there isn't much of a saving if you have a good frame under your rig to begin with.
But if the Jeep's original frame is hacked up due to crude engine swaps in the past and many Jeeps had extremely crude engine swaps in the 60's then the S-10 swap would be a lot more practical.
I think what MartinSr and I are both trying to say is that it may be more practical in the long run to use a "good solid" stock frame and run a crossmember kit and rear end swap in most rigs than buy into the S-10 swap thing.
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