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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 11:05 AM
wretched ratchet I've only cut one drive shaft off and actually a welder friend of mine did it and he ground the welds at the rear yoke, tapped it off, cut the shaft then checked it 360 with a T-square and welded it back on. It was on a '47 Dodge PU and we never had a minutes problem. Seems like there would be more need for accuracy in the middle of the shaft than at the ends? Kinda like a jump rope so to speak. Just a thought nothing else.
Today 09:20 AM
tech69 going over some old footage of a 55 Chevy quarter I did and plan to make a video of it and am recalling my boss complaining about the time it took. Man, that quarter had a million things wrong with it that were unacceptable but watching that video footage reminds me of what an IDIOT my boss was for just expecting things to magically get done in mitchell estimate time, which isn't even made for restorations or even accounts for the badly made quarters he always bought. It was beyond stupid when it came to cutting and buffing restoration jobs. He actually once mentioned the times given in Mitchell for a cut and buff. That right there just shows how clueless he was.

Anyhow, going to the gym and hopefully will start shaping some cardboard to get a side and over head shape of a tank and make the main pieces of a buck for my tank. This all hinges on whether or not my daughter will allow it. She might come back there to play and distract me but I don't mind.
Today 08:41 AM
cliff tate
470merc marine

cleane 2 heads and refaced valves and seats.(the heads are hp460 ford heads)
frend has a crew boat with 2 of these engines.huge valves no guide wear. the 4cyl short blocks are a bit scarey,alum block with cast sleeves that are cast into block,but they seem to work well in his aplication. I enjoy working on odball stuff. next asembling 292 yblock for ?? next project
Today 05:50 AM
496CHEVY3100
Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
Tuned this mopar 16 yrs ago, and was called to adjust the brakes, and emergency brake and replace the burned out bulbs, adjust the carb and install new plugs! It was a joy to see the old girl again! and even with 16 yrs on the tune up she was still running good!

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...99041408769904
\\

Looks like a 54-56 Imperial.???
Today 03:07 AM
BuzzLOL
Quote:
Originally Posted by painted jester View Post
Tuned this mopar 16 yrs ago, and was called to adjust the brakes, and emergency brake and replace the burned out bulbs, adjust the carb and install new plugs! It was a joy to see the old girl again! and even with 16 yrs on the tune up she was still running good!

. What does it say on that shift indicator? Looks like Forced Torque Drive...
Today 03:03 AM
BuzzLOL .
. New yokes are cheaper than paying someone to cut and machine off the old yoke, so local shops just use a new yoke...

. I would have cut the shaft near one end... by cutting in the middle, any slight unstraightness/tension at the weld is magnified at the far ends...
Yesterday 10:59 PM
painted jester Tuned this mopar 16 yrs ago, and was called to adjust the brakes, and emergency brake and replace the burned out bulbs, adjust the carb and install new plugs! It was a joy to see the old girl again! and even with 16 yrs on the tune up she was still running good!

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...99041408769904
Yesterday 08:57 PM
NEW INTERIORS
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
I know nostalgia is strong but I would paint it the same color you plan for YOUR truck. Then you can pull a F*rd around with your Chebby, mon...


What to do when the driveshaft is too long ?????

CUT IT.......

I have a '70 Buick 8.5 under the GTO and the driveshafts are too long for that combo. I cut 1 1/2" out of the shaft today. Before anyone gets all bent, I only want to be able to drive the car around the yard and self load on trailers. I don't expect it will be balanced anymore but it IS pretty d@mn straight...

I set it up with a level and tried to cut SLOOOOOOOW enough that the blade wouldn't deflect, but it still did a little.



I drew the line to keep it in phase.



Clamped it on 4 sides to hold it straight.





I welded around in small sections as far as I could to the alignment braces and then finished it off.



I went over the high areas with the 2" sander to blend it some and then shot it with Eastwood Spray Grey.

I'm not sure how many I made,, But only tryed your way once...Very hard to get it right that way,, I cut the yoke off close to the end then take off what I need, Turn down the yoke in my lathe, Slip it back in, Line it up, Weld it just like it came...never had to have one balance yet... Good luck,, Good job putting it back together..
Yesterday 07:42 PM
John long The engines, transmissions and rear end have gone to their new home.

I got back to work on my support at the B pillar today.

It is supposed to have a heat index of over 100 here tomorrow. I suspect by the time I get back from the Cleveland Cruise I am going to be too hot to want to go to the basement but i hope not. Glad to be back to work on it though.

John
Yesterday 04:27 PM
1971BB427
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
I know nostalgia is strong but I would paint it the same color you plan for YOUR truck. Then you can pull a F*rd around with your Chebby, mon...


What to do when the driveshaft is too long ?????

CUT IT.......

[/IMG][/URL]
Considering how much you had at the rear of the smaller diameter, it looks like plenty to work with. It's going to be pretty weak, and possibly fail with a joint weld in the middle. I use a chop saw also, but set it just in front of the weld, and cut through the outer tube. Then I rotate the driveline while it's cutting to just cut through the outer tube all around. Drive the yoke out, and cut the tube again, using the same rotating method to keep a straight cut. Then tap the yoke back in and leave 1/8" gap to get weld penetration.
I've made up many drivelines this way, and if I keep everything indexed, they stay in balance, and never break, even under tough launches at the drag strip. I've even had to drill spot welds out of weights to get enough room to shorten a driveshaft, and then weld them back in at the same indexed point afterwards, and they stayed in balance.
Yesterday 04:10 PM
496CHEVY3100
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
With the driveshaft tapering down at the rear, I didn't have a way to keep it aligned. I know welding it back on the yoke makes it much stronger but this was the easiest thing for me to do. The new owner will be fully informed of the "temporary" status of it...


Looks like you did a good job on the shaft ,I used a 73 chevy 454 long bed driveshoft ,that is why it is so big in diameter, ,it is what I had at the time,didnt want to go searching ,
Yesterday 03:47 PM
Too Many Projects
Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
Don't think I haveever saw one cut in the center.i know it is temporary ,

I have found it a LOT easier to cut the weld loose at the rear then slide the yoke out of driveshaft tube then cut off what I need then slide the flange of the yoke back in tube it will be straight this way ,,and by cutting the rear IF it were to break it want POGO you up in the air,

draw a straight line the length of driveshaft then you can correctly phase the Ujoints..
I know you already know this but some one might get some use out of this,

This test fit before paint ,I don't grind my welds .
With the driveshaft tapering down at the rear, I didn't have a way to keep it aligned. I know welding it back on the yoke makes it much stronger but this was the easiest thing for me to do. The new owner will be fully informed of the "temporary" status of it...
Yesterday 03:36 PM
MARTINSR So I got a spare for my trailer from a total at work. I had to get an adapter being my trailer runs 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern. I got this very cool spare out of a little SUV that will be perfect with 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. I ordered an adapter from the tire guy we deal with at the shop and walked over to get it today, thinking about where to mount this spare on the trailer, it hit me on the way that the bolt pattern of the same as the Caravan I will be towing it with! WTH was I thinking? I have the spare on the van for both trailer and van. Then I thought, damn, what if I want to tow it with the Rambler (I have been looking to put a hitch on it) and it hit me, IT'S the same bolt pattern 4.5" LOL.

A good walk will help clear your mind.

Brian
Yesterday 03:24 PM
496CHEVY3100 Don't think I haveever saw one cut in the center.i know it is temporary ,

I have found it a LOT eaiser to cut the weld loose at the rear then slide the yoke out of driveshaft tube then cut off what I need then slide the flange of the yoke back in tube it will be straight this way ,,and by cutting the rear IF it were to break it want POGO you up in the air,

draw a straight line the length of driveshakt then you can correctly phase the Ujoints..
I know you already know this but some one might get some use out of this,

This test fit before paint ,I don't grind my welds .
Yesterday 03:04 PM
Too Many Projects
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post

Every time I get near this trailer I am forced to think of another project that I REALLY want to get done! This was my dad's '55 F100 truck bed and frame and I want to do a quicky "restoration" on it but it doesn't happen. I want to make it the Mustang green it was when he painted the truck in '66.

I could knock it out in a few days, I really do need to get this done.

Brian
I know nostalgia is strong but I would paint it the same color you plan for YOUR truck. Then you can pull a F*rd around with your Chebby, mon...


What to do when the driveshaft is too long ?????

CUT IT.......

I have a '70 Buick 8.5 under the GTO and the driveshafts are too long for that combo. I cut 1 1/2" out of the shaft today. Before anyone gets all bent, I only want to be able to drive the car around the yard and self load on trailers. I don't expect it will be balanced anymore but it IS pretty d@mn straight...

I set it up with a level and tried to cut SLOOOOOOOW enough that the blade wouldn't deflect, but it still did a little.



I drew the line to keep it in phase.



Clamped it on 4 sides to hold it straight.





I welded around in small sections as far as I could to the alignment braces and then finished it off.



I went over the high areas with the 2" sander to blend it some and then shot it with Eastwood Spray Grey.

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