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Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior> First time spraying PPG DP50 and Featherfill G2. Advice needed.
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Thread: First time spraying PPG DP50 and Featherfill G2. Advice needed. Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-24-2012 08:02 PM
Dave C. I'm pretty sure the Ospho must be the same as the Rustmort by SEM, I had been using for years. Over the past couple years I have been using a few different products yeilding the same to very simular results. I find that the most effective products like the rustmort are approximately 75% phosphoric acid. Recently I've used some stuff at my local tractor supply store as well as POR's metal ready, all with the same results. I have even used concrete etcher with simular results. Now I just try to find the most cost effective product as most the items I am working on are/were rusty. I also like to wipe off pieces that I have welded with something to help neutralize the oxidation left from welding. Plus areas that are welded contain more iron than the mild steel pieces usually welded, therefore more susceptible to corroding faster. Many cars that have been brought to my shop usually are rustier where they were previously repaired!
02-24-2012 02:33 PM
deadbodyman Hey Dave, what do you use straight phosphric acid or is that the main ingredient in the product you my Ospho I love so much....
02-24-2012 06:28 AM
Dave C. Don't worry, If you look at the spec sheets and MSDS for most DTM primer/sealers, they use phosophuric acid to assist in etching to the metal. I just prefer the extra preperation steps to ensure the rust has been stopped.
02-23-2012 01:12 PM
diety motorsports

as long as there is no rust left. and was dry and covered with a dtm epoxy. the rust cannot come back. if sealed properly. I would not worry about it at this time.
02-23-2012 09:36 AM
Riot Racing
Originally Posted by Dave C.
IMO, After looking at those wheels, I would wash them with phosphoric acid, scuff them, then spray your epoxy. I have a bunch of parts that were sandblasted and then powder coated which are spider webbing all over. I don't believe that sandblasting removes the rust, it only removes the loose material. Oxidation is a chemical reaction to the iron. Pitting reveals the problem as an embedded problem to the steel piece.
Well ****! I wish I had this post before I sprayed the primer on the wheels
02-23-2012 07:53 AM
Dave C. IMO, After looking at those wheels, I would wash them with phosphoric acid, scuff them, then spray your epoxy. I have a bunch of parts that were sandblasted and then powder coated which are spider webbing all over. I don't believe that sandblasting removes the rust, it only removes the loose material. Oxidation is a chemical reaction to the iron. Pitting reveals the problem as an embedded problem to the steel piece.
02-22-2012 09:04 PM
diety motorsports

imo. as far as difficulty. I would not use any rust converter at all. sandblasting will take care of all the rust. clean em well with wax and grease remover, and put your 2k dtm epoxy on em. Per spec sheet when the epoxy is ready, shoot just a hi-build 2k primer. a few coats max. Let dry at least 24 hours to allow for shrikage. lightly sand with approx. 400, since your not going for full on body panel type perfection. should be plenty smooth and shoot your color. you don't need sealer on top of 2k primer. I think you will be happy with the results. If you rub through the primer, rescuff the entire wheel again, with 180 clean again and shoot a few more coats on. bottom line is you want a nice even finish throughout to put your top coat on. All sanding will be done by hand of course, and again, make em nice, but you won't be able to get your standard, blocks etc in there, wear gloves to prevent hand oils etc getting in any step of your paint and prep work.
02-19-2012 10:57 PM
Formulajim Also there is a air adjustment ,more air hardly any paint at first until you get the hang of it.
02-19-2012 10:54 PM
Formulajim If you turn the gun down so the trigger barely moves and not much paint comes out,almost none it's easy to get into all the cracks and hard to reach spots first and carefully once you get the whole thing covered you turn the gun up and put a nice wet coat on you won,t get runs. Also turn the fan closed so it hits small spot at first,then widen for wet coat to about six inces. If you need to fill the pits with the filler primer just turn down the amount again and carefully fill where you need it. Don,t be in a hurry and learn to adjust your gun and it is easy,and won,t get out of hand and cause extra work.
02-19-2012 08:27 PM
deadbodyman Jasco....Thats the good stuff ,just a tad better than aircraft stripper...I heard that Lowes and Home dept now sell Ospho and of coarse aircraft stripper and Jasco stripper
02-19-2012 07:40 PM
DanielC I have been trying to find the Ospho around here. At Ace hardware, correct? The closest store, does not carry it, but would be happy to order it, if I wanted to buy a whole case (12 bottles) of the stuff.

On another note, I bought this paint stripper.

and did a little messing around with removing paint off a hood for a Datsun pickup.
02-19-2012 03:20 PM
deadbodyman Just epoxy wont stop them from rusting again fairly quickly...What I would do is first wire wheel some Ospho in there ,theres still quite a bit of rust in those pits the Ospho will remove most of whats left and convert any remnents there might be,Then use the SPI epoxy ,it will build but it'll take mabee 5-6 coats...give it a good sanding and shoot it with 2 more coats ..that should do it ...
02-18-2012 08:57 AM
MARTINSR As DBM said, sanding those wheels "surfacing" them is a MUTHA big time. If you must, and yours are pretty badly pitted then the polyester primer (it is an "undercoat" as "Top coat" is something you leave it in) is the way to go. But don't spray it everywhere, epoxy it and just spray the polyester where you NEED it. Sand it out and then epoxy the whole thing again and spray your paint (top coat) right over the epoxy, as no sanding is needed. (if you follow the manufacturers recommendations for "recoat window")

OH MY GOD does this bring back a horror story in my career. One time many years ago I did a set of Model A wires that were badly pitted. Polyster primed all four, spokes and all, inside and out and surfaced them! HOLY CRAP my figures were raw by the time I finished those damn wheels! I had no finger prints! LOL

You may want to "surface" the metal first with a roloc "surface conditioning disc", I know I would. Get the coarsest one, I forget the name of the color, it's a beige looking one, on an angle grinder and smooth out the metal before priming.

I have never used SPI but I understand it will fill and sand well (Shine may speak up, he uses it a lot) and after surfacing it with the Roloc disc the SPI epoxy primer may be enough. I would do anything personally before I broke out the polyester primer. It is bad ars stuff, a real life saver when you MUST use it, but if you don't, don't, it adds a LOT of work to surfacing.

02-18-2012 08:02 AM
skip99 I just did a set of ralley's and used epoxy, then primer, mine were as rough as yours...or worse... I think the feather fill will be too thick..and for rallys, all that needs to be really nice is the front and really not under the center cap as much, which means, on the front lip and center area that can lay a couple coats of primer ..either epoxy or 2k..and those areas will be easy to sand....
02-17-2012 11:42 AM
DanielC You can hang stuff to paint it, but if still leaves a "shadow" where the wire was.

Your wheels do have some pretty bad pitting from rust. Are the wheels anything special, or would it be easier to just get some new wheels?

One advantage of laying the wheels flat is you can more easily get a uniform coat around the wheel. Another possible solution is to thin the DP epoxy (2 parts DPLF, 1 part DP402LF. 1/2 part DT reducer), and spray wet, almost to the point you get "visible flow out indicators"

Some people call "visible flow out indicators" runs.

Painting the wheels can be tricky. It is hard to get paint into the narrow slots between the hub, and the wheel, without getting too much paint on to adjacent areas. the spoked wheel were even more troublesome, because I had to paint the edges of the spokes first, and then the flat more visible areas of the spokes, and finally the rim of the wheel.

Maybe some of the professional painters on this board can do a wheel like that quickly, but I resorted to adjusting the fan width, and paint flow down to a small fan. to do some areas, and opening up the controls on the gun to do other areas.
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