|03-03-2012 04:21 PM|
|moparmusclecars||DP40 has always been good stuff, but the main thing i never liked about it is that it does not sand worth a crap! Yeah, I gotta try the epoxy primer that Barry has.|
|03-03-2012 06:05 AM|
|deadbodyman||Its been a while but DP-40 used to be my brand ,nothing wrong with it as far as protection goes but the SPI has a few distinct advantages over it.|
|02-27-2012 11:20 AM|
I have personally used the Omni epoxy primer after switching from regular PPG DP40 (at that time). While the Omni epoxy is suppose to be close to regular DP, it is not. We used it in the shop for about one and a half years, and actually at that time, had a few cars come back for peel due to the epoxy primer. I threw the rest in the garbage and went back to regular PPG DP. Never had another issue. After finding out about SPI's epoxy, I am going to call them and get me some of that stuff. I am sold on PPG DP, and we have done several tests using it over the past twenty years or so. One test was we sprayed some black iron, threw it outside the shop and left it. We would pick it up from time to time and check it out. Five years later that DP was still on the part protecting it from rust (corrosion). This was through harse winters too. DP reminds me of the product (Zinc Chromate Primer)we used when I was with the USAF as a Airframe repairman. Even smells the same. I would never use Omni epoxy again. I will be trying SPI's epoxy though.
|02-26-2012 10:23 AM|
LOL,If thats your reply ,heres an example and if you want I'll go back and copy and paste the responses including yours...
I asked about the wet sand paper grits like P400 and what its equivalent would have been before the new system came out, maybe a conversion chart.....
All the responses were about how to sand and how every member there sanded and what grits THEY used. One member with a well stroked ego even stated he had no need to block with 400 (I guess because he was SO good) the point is, everyone jumped in and explained the proper way to sand according to them ...no one answered the question (maybe because none of them with the exception of you ,were around when the system changed) I ended up getting the chart right here at HR.
They may be helpful to a newbie but its been my experience that theres ALWAYS several ways to do every job....thinking there is only one way to do a job....now thats absurd. I compare it to H.A.M.B and how they all think alike
|02-26-2012 09:27 AM|
hvac phil , i'm sure all the painters on the spi site will be glad to know how much you appreciated the help they gave you over the last year doing your mustang. right up til jan of this year you were still posting asking for help and getting it. nice to see your true colors cowboy .
mike, your post is so absurd there is no point in replying to it.
|02-26-2012 05:28 AM|
I'm a rookie, i've used the PPG and Omni epoxy. They suck compared to the SPI. Try sanding the PPG stuff after a MONTH, it will gum up just like you sprayed it 2hrs ago. No matter what you do, PPG will not lay smooth, even if you reduce it twice what it calls for, still peely. SPI, lays smooth, sands super easy.
As far as the SPI site that Deadbodyman refferred to, it is tough to post over there. I made one comment about how a "dealer painter" did a hack job on a friends car, they jumped all over me, PM'd me about it. All i was saying that if you don't take pride in your work, don't do it just to make a buck. Makes all the others in the business "seem" like hacks to others outside the business. It stereotypes "all" painters which, isn't true. Now if i have an SPI question, i just call Barry directly. He is always helpful and guides you thru the process.
|02-25-2012 12:54 PM|
Other than using the Ospho you pretty much did everything wrong and WILL have a problem later.....The "improper" use of acid products is THE #1 cause of paint failures......PM me and I'll run through the procedure...a tried and true procedure that's served me well for over 25 yrs. and thats an open invitation to anyone that wants to try it to remove rust or protect bare metal from surface rust.
For the most part the spi site is a bunch of PAINTERS playing follow the leader...just mention Ospho and every single one will jump on you and none of them have actually used it..... properly anyways....It is an SPI "USER" site
started by users...almost a religion.check it out.... with a grain of salt....
anyone that hasn't used Ospho (specifically) should probably give their fingers a rest...when they start saying how it has to be neutralized,it wont work with SPI epoxy or Bla bla bla,etc, I know for a fact they haven't used it..they just confuse the issue with misinformation....they do sound like they know what they're talking about and a few even have as much experiance as me (since 75)...so I understand all the confusion..a few even had me wondering if somehow I was wrong and I've just been lucky for 25yrs and hundreds of cars,so did all the tests everyone suggested and a few of my own ,It passed every one....As much as I love SPI epoxy and universal clear,they'll always be my second favorite product, I just cant do without the Ospho...SPI as a company however ,IS #1 there's simply none better in this business....I dont play politics I just call it like I see it...
|02-25-2012 11:52 AM|
|mitmaks||PPG paint is overpriced. You can get more for your money with other brands ie SPI, sherwin williams, etc.|
|02-25-2012 10:28 AM|
i would suggest you go and read this .
|02-25-2012 10:00 AM|
I read that thread and there seemed to be some conflicting statements and why I was getting a bit confused.
Nevertheless, I am taking that direction. I have applied OSPHO and will let it dry at least 24 hours-kept inside and will probably spray the primer next weekend. Will look into the SPI sounds like the way to go.
What do you mean there's a little more to it on the Ospho subject?
|02-25-2012 09:40 AM|
everything you need to know about ospho is in the "ospho solution" thread here at HR just do a search it'll pop right up.
SPI epoxy also works with every kind of paint we use in the auto industry..anything I've ever used anyway
|02-25-2012 09:27 AM|
Yes it is compatible with PPG colors.
The very best thing about SPI is Barry publishes his cell number so you can call and ask any question you have about his products and get the straight answer.
|02-25-2012 09:22 AM|
On the other hand I've called SPI mabee 50 times in the past 5yrs and every time the owner (Barry) answeard and shared his knowlage...
And I've seen his hands and trust me I dont think he even knows what a manicure is......My kind of guy and a great company....
|02-25-2012 09:21 AM|
SPI ships FREE to your doorstep if you do not have a local distributor.
A little mentioned product is their urethane reducers. They are made from virgin ingrediants and are superior to any other reducers I have used. The cost is far easier on my wallet too.
Check out their pricing @ http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/Pricing%20Info.htm.. And remember always compare pricing of paints as sprayable quanities as the mixing differences make it hard to compare otherwise.
|02-25-2012 09:20 AM|
Uh oh the Ospho word.
OK here we go- I sandblasted some front grille parts for the 1959 chevy truck I am starting. Brought them home and evenly sponged ospho on them. I then took one of the parts and rinsed it with water and dried it. Flash rust occured right away so I reapplied ospho.
Is this the correct way to use OSPHO i.e. put it on and leave on without rinsing? the directions on the container do not say anything about rinsing but they have a mild warning about testing use with epoxy products.
On the other hand the PPG DX520 cleaner which is a phosphoric acid states to rinse the item and prime the same day.
Is the SPI primer compatible with subsequent PPG colors?
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