|05-30-2012 07:46 PM|
|tech69||I like the side of the palm of my hand sometimes. The area below my pinky. Works great for certain areas. I even spread filler sometime with my fingers, acid brushes, and even razor blades. Sometimes I'll sand with paint sticks, the cardboard center of da paper rolls, modified paint sticks, and modified dura blocks. Whatever it takes as long as it's not digging when sanding and not spreading my filler like crap.|
|05-30-2012 09:02 AM|
You guys should try the Soft-Sanders. They are excellent!! They come in different shapes that actually contour to what ever you are working on.
they also come in different lengths. They are soft which i didnt think would work but, I was wrong!!! They will flex either convex or concave while you are working with them and the paper dosnt come off You can make them stiffer by applying tape to the side you are not working with.
You can also use them when wet sanding and their superflex sandpaper actually stays stuck to the sander!! never had anything like that. Durablocks are great but these things in my opinnion puts them to shame!! Really cool stuff!! got mine at softsanders.com
with these you dont have to wasted alot of time making your own sanders of plexiglass and stuff.
|02-26-2012 06:35 AM|
I cant believe no one mentioned the old scuff pad trick...Fold a scuff pad in half, wrap a piece of DA paper around it. it works fantastic around flared wheel openings,any curve really....when it comes time for color sanding they cant be beat just wrap the wet sand paper around one .the density is just right and the scuff pad holds the water....
Try taking some heater hose lay it out straight and fill it with that expanding foam insulation ,you'll have a straight round block thats slightly flexable.very nice for sanding tightly curved bodylines like on an S-10
and for very tight lines you can stick some paper to the edge a bondo squeegie, good for places like the body line on a 32 ford ,
|02-26-2012 04:51 AM|
I have been using a 90 deg air grinder with small emery disks about 2" diameter great for tight spots and small contours. If you use emery disks instead of sanding disks you won't grind away any metal. The ones I use are the "S" type
|02-26-2012 01:08 AM|
|ReflectImage||Plexiglass, good idea - bends and stays flat . By the way, in a previous post I think someone mentioned wrapping paint sticks with sandpaper, we used this idea and it helps in certain situations. I was to the recent Sema Trade Show in Vegas and I see that 3m is getting smarter, they applied their Hookit facing material to paint sticks & put together a little detail kit - with paper cut to fit the paint stick......|
|02-25-2012 11:33 PM|
|mr4speed||There is a plastics business nearby that I get all the peices I need, they cut them to length right there. I think the last time I was there they cut up several shapes and thickness for around 15 bucks. I don't know where you are but if you look into any companies that specialize in plastics they should be able to help you out. I find the plexi works real well in various situations. I have one that is about 1/16 thick 2 3/4 wide by about 8 inches long and stays perfectly flat to whatever you bend it around to block something curved. Then for blocking round inside curves I use different sizes of pvc pipe.|
|02-25-2012 09:40 PM|
i have thought of plexi. But never could find any scraps. Its not cheap to buy outright. any ideas? Scrap wise?
|02-25-2012 05:28 PM|
|mr4speed||Have too agree with the homemade flat blocks as well. Make mine out of different thickness and lenghts of plexiglass. Will always make what you are sanding dead flat, because the blocks are dead flat. Try blocking a 52 caddy rear quarter with durablocks, just aint going to happen. Also use with the first cut of the clear to acheive the laquer like clarity.|
|02-23-2012 04:34 PM|
Your welcome. I have one of those, I use others, and a lot of homemade ones that fit what i'm doing.
|02-23-2012 04:33 PM|
|02-23-2012 02:55 PM|
this will get you in the right direction. Good stuff, not very long. Just fyi.
|02-23-2012 02:48 PM|
|66SSImp454||I have Googled the 3m closed cell foam pads and coming up empty. Can someone put a link up please?|
|02-23-2012 10:56 AM|
Blocks oh Blocks
Yes, using long hard board on clear coat is the quickest way you are going to cut orange peel down or level irregularities. It takes a little nerve, but once a person gets good at it they never go back. We also, liked using the powder guide coat. I agreed often self-made tools are the best answer - the last few years we were in business we specialized in XKE Jags and found a need to designed a adjustable long 'hard' board that we used on all our customer's restorations, one of the cars received 99.99 & Best Paint in a concourse show. We spent the money and got a patent on the idea. Now I am trying to find a way to get this concept on the market, I think a lot of guys would find it very useful, it just works.
|02-23-2012 02:00 AM|
Blocks Oh Blocks!
Blocks are only as good as the person thats using the tool. Yes, find yourself a nice flat piece of oak. and cut em in any size you want. This will give you the flattest surface possible in the beginning stages. As mentioned above. I have used all sorts of home made blocks and barely ever had to buy anyones Hi dollar piece of foam. This works very well also in the cutting process in wetsanding your clear. Use the longest board possible for the panel your using. Method as mentioned is important as well. Without a doubt, use guide coat, I prefer the dust powder guide coat over the spray can ones. You want a panel flat, the harder the better. Be creative. Psa long board sandpaper on a roll can fit just about anything.
|02-22-2012 09:14 PM|
New To Bodywork
Reply for 'New in Body Work': Soft Foam - Hard Foam - Flexiable tools might be handy for smoothing or getting into difficult areas; but that's it! I am a retired twenty year veteran of auto body finishing and found that in order to achieve flat straight and true reflections in the paint finish as well as hold to the original contour of the panels, is to use a long hard board especially in the initial leveling of the body fillers and in final stages of sanding out the sand scratches in the primers surfaces. Starting with a air board and moving onto a long hard board in a cross-hatch method this is the best way to level and stay with the original contours of the panels (even Fords from the forties). It takes a little time to learn the technique but worth it in the end. Don't worry - stop sanding when you see metal and it's also a good idea to use a guide coat so you can see lows that you can't see or feel.
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