|03-08-2012 06:47 PM|
Thanks alot for the links and the help its muchly appreciated thats for sure. If i didnt have all the guys on here that have helped me in the last 5 or so years I wouldnt know what I know today about what I know. Any kind of help is appreciated I know sometimes people on here can ask the most basic questions about the most simpilest things but there is always someone that can answer it wether its complicated or easy as changing a spark plug.
So thanks to everyone for all the help like I said it is appreciated
|03-08-2012 05:32 PM|
|03-08-2012 04:08 PM|
|BigEd36||F-BIRD'88, do you use the Molyslip E instead of the GM EOS or ZDDP additive, or in addtion to the EOS/ZDDP additive?|
|03-08-2012 09:32 AM|
|400smb_s10||Sorry dont mean to pus hthe envelope but I would like to know what kinda of break in would be good for the cam I am ready to drop the motor in and i dont want to screw up the cam any help will be appreciated|
|03-07-2012 09:40 PM|
OK so I got the heads ported and polished cam is in and the double roller timing set is installed. 4 bbl intake and Qjet card is installed (was a 2 bbl) New high volt distributor is installed (was the old points style) Now I got 2 questions.
#1) What kind of breakin should be applied for the cam and which oil should I use for break in.
#2) Should I gain a suggnificant amount of horses changing from 2 bbl to 4 bbl and changing out the distirbutor from points to HEI, and from the ram horn manifolds to 1 3/4" shorty headers?
|03-03-2012 12:04 PM|
|03-03-2012 08:39 AM|
1996-1999 Chevrolet/GMC C/K full-size trucks
1996-1999 Chevrolet Suburban/GMC Suburban full-size long-wheelbase SUVs
1996-1999 Chevrolet Tahoe/GMC Yukon full-size short-wheelbase SUVs
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
The motor should have 5700 Vortec badging and was built under Regular Production Order L31.
F-BIRD'88 made a good point the other day, that the heads found in boneyards are more likely to be cracked than a new set of heads from Summit or another source. That's why the motor is in a boneyard in the first place.
Here's a good price from Pace Performance on a bone-stock head....
There are many other sources, including Scoggin-Dickey Chevrolet....
|03-02-2012 07:37 PM|
Ok thanks everyone for all opinions they are very much so appreciated. Its been a well needed learning curve talking with everyone about this so im thankful for that to.
One more question. The vortec heads what year of motor do they come off of? Oh and the stock heads I have are getting ported as we speak so hopfully they will be a little better then stock.
Thanks again for all the help
|03-02-2012 04:12 PM|
Shorty headers will work better than stock cast iron manifolds, but will be short on power when compared to long-tube, tuned headers.
With 9.00:1 SCR, this motor will not be a world beater. It will make good power with a stock converter, but if you want to "get up and scram", you're building the wrong motor.
|03-02-2012 02:34 PM|
TI has run the DCR for you and deemed it to be OK, so all that is left is to get it installed and broken in. THIS Wiki page has a few articles that could be of some use to you, like:
• Adjust valves
• Camshaft install tips and tricks
• Valve train points to check
|03-02-2012 02:04 PM|
Ok so I should swap out all the springs to 1.6? or just the intake and intake rockers?
I also ment to mention that the exhaust is 1 3/4" shorty headers into 3' exhaust no cats and glass packs
I want this engine to work well for me. maybe take it to the track on a saturday night but I mostly want it to have a little more ummph then stock. I would like it to be a nice cruizer motor but when i want to get up and scram I will be able to do so.
|03-02-2012 12:19 PM|
If your static compression ratio is truly 9.00:1, then the dynamic compression ratio with this cam will be 8.09:1. (intake valve closes at 32 degrees ABDC).When I read your first post, I thought the motor would be a typical low compression boat anchor (around 8:1).
That cam will work fine on pump gas and yield decent power. If you want more low end, use a cam that's a little bit smaller, to raise the DCR some. Maybe a cam with 5-7 degrees less at 0.050".
Are you paying attention to the squish?
|03-02-2012 11:47 AM|
Good. The manufacturer is Camshaft Machine in Illinois (they may have relocated). it is a "generi-grind" sold by several vendors, including Melling, Elgin, Edelbrock, Mahle, Wolverine, etc. (all marketers, none are cam grinders). Currently, CMC "soes" most of the flat-tappet hydraulic V8 grinds for MOSTcam sellers including Comp and Crower. Of course, Comp, Crower, Lunati all supply their "own" masters and the grinds are propietery.
This is a mild performance grind. It should offer a pretty smooth idle and will be fine with a "stock" converter. For a little better top-end performance, use "Z/28" (or similar) valve springs. NO "rotators" on the exhaust valves!!! Stick with 1.5 rockers. If you do upgrade the springs, a 1.6 rocker on the exhaust "side" will pick you up some performance. Most modern grinds are "dual pattern". This one is a "single" pattern (both lobes "look" alike).
Comp's old 260H grind is CLOSE. It's 212 @ .050. It has an LSA of 110, though. The stated power range for the Comp cam is "1,200 - 5,200". I suspect this cam would bring the power "in" a tad sooner (the LSA) and not be quite so "peaky" as the Comp, "spreading" the power to the same upper limit. Important to note, differences in performance between the two would be minimal with a grind this "small".
For a 400, this would be a "torque" grind, probably running out of "breath" closer to 4,800 than 5,200. What exactly do you want it (the engine) to "do"?
|03-02-2012 09:49 AM|
Duration @ .050" 214 int 214 Exh
SAE duration 287 287
Lobe spread 105 115
Valve Lift ".444 ".444
Cam Lift ".296 ".296
The maker of the cam is MAHLE GROUP and the part number is 229-1987
Hope this give you all the info needed
Thanks for all the input so far
|03-02-2012 06:58 AM|
All cam grinders have a different method of measuring "advertised" duration. For a more "straight-forward" comparison, the @.050 numbers are more useful. Also, each cam grinder has a different "approach" to making power and the corresponding lobe designs or "shapes'. Not all cams are "equal", even if their "@.050" and lift/LSA numbers are the "same".
That being said, what is the brand name and part number? That's the best way to determine if this cam will suit your needs.
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