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Topic Review (Newest First)
Yesterday 10:35 PM
MARTINSR Well damn it, I had a hard night last night, I have been beat all day long and was about to fall asleep on the couch when I forced myself up and out to the garage to put in my five minutes. I was able to finish off the rest of the wheel opening moulding I started the other night, whoo hooo!

I found one set of these mouldings on Ebay that had "general dings" over them for a "driver" on sale for $469 so I am thinking I should easily be able to get the money to rebuild my torch regulators so I can get back to work on the truck! I may even end up getting larger tanks for the it too.

Brian
Yesterday 05:13 PM
Too Many Projects
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Belgian View Post
that's why i need the wiring diagram so I can figure out the right color of wire and it's correct function. just to sure where to connect the nex wires. been using google a while now and only can seem to find a 58 diagram. not sure if it's the right one though
'58 and '59 are pretty much the same vehicle. I would reference the '58 diagram and see if the colors are the same as yours.
Yesterday 04:58 PM
John long I put my plasma cutter to good use today. I cut some verticle plates to go inside the frame rails to help stiffen them up. I don't know if it really needed them but it certainly won't hurt them to be there.
John

Yesterday 04:20 PM
waynep712
Quote:
Originally Posted by Custom10 View Post
If you haven't already,,, Try posting your issue in the engine thread, perhaps under the modern engine category.

My news,,,Friend and I went in and just bought this 73 Challenger Rallye 340 4 speed car. Parked for 16 years. We are just starting to dig deep into what we have, we know the original 340 is gone and it has a 70 335HP 383. Big bonus we just discovered the broad cast sheet in the back seat (is that what you call it?), something tells me this is a good thing we are both bow-tie blooded Chevy guys, and first Mopar ever for me. We are redoing rear shackles, bushings and spring hangers this week.

Plan is to get it running nice, take care of any issues and sell it. The more I work on it the more I like it, the styling kind of grows on you. Needed a serious interior clean up before anything, sure has an odd Dodge odor to it we cant seem to scrub that out! lol.
a friend just turned down 60K for a similar slightly earlier big block cuda that was not nearly as nice as that.. i had a 70 challenger with the pistol grip 4 speed like that.. i had my 66 GTO and even with the crazy loud exhaust i almost never got pulled over. (i did get pulled over by 8 lapd motorcycle officers at one time. they did a beautiful parade turn to get me.) . with a lemon yellow 70 challenger.. i could not go more than a few days without getting pulled over. i don't even recall what i got for it.

there are tricks to replacing the front lower control arm bushings if they need to be done.. do ask.

edit.. by the way.. depending on rear end gearing.. that thing might be able to go well over 140 with a 383.. don't try that without oil pickup visual inspection for any sludge blockage.
Yesterday 04:11 PM
waynep712
Quote:
Originally Posted by harposrepair View Post
I've been pretty busy working on my '90 Buick P/A w/3.8 and have changed the ignition module (5X), crank sensor, and PCM and it still dies after anytime between 5 minutes to 2 hours. The check engine light doesn't even come on while it's running so I can't get any codes to come up. This time I felt of the PCM and it's getting hot while it's running. Have any of you guys ran into a problem like this and found the cause? I've spent around $300 on this and still can't even take it across town or just to go to the store.
yes...

throw an amp meter across the fuel pump circuit.. monitor the fuel pump amp draw.. i had one online that helped chase for weeks.. the fuel pump power circuit was shared with the crank and cam sensor circuit..

when i finally got the owner to put one of the harborfreight amp meters into the fuse box and take a ride.. it would start at 7 amps.. by the time he had gone 15 miles.. it was up to 15 amps. at 17 amps the engine would die and set either a cam or crank sensor code.. it was a 94 olds cutlass ciera 3.8 . the fuel pump fuse was in the glove box..

never pointing toward the fuel pump causing a voltage drop.. here i am testing fuel pump amp draw on a 90 S10.
https://youtu.be/vEiZ5QRu9Mw that pump had worn bushings and the armature laminations were actually rubbing on the magnet shells.. the shaft looked like this when i pealed the pump apart. look closely.. you might see the wear marks on the laminations.





with 3.8 motors.. there have also been pink wires under or beside the coil pack that are shorted to ground.

you may want to print this diagram.. or copy it to your phone



you will find a connector under the dashboard like that. its usually above the brake pedal.. it will have more wires than this image as the turn signal and wiper switch connectors are missing from that.

testing the wires with a test light is really easy.. done as somebody slowly turns the ignition key from the locked position thru cranking and back to locked. can you fold back the wires and get a good image of your connector where the wires are.. they should be wired in the same positions as the image above..

the white wire in C1 should have power in the unlock, run, cranking, run and unlock position..

the pink wire in C5 should have power in the Run, Cranking and RUN position..

the orange and the brown wires in C6 and D6 should have power in the RUN position. one may have it in the acc position also.
Yesterday 03:32 PM
Custom10 If you haven't already,,, Try posting your issue in the engine thread, perhaps under the modern engine category.

My news,,,Friend and I went in and just bought this 73 Challenger Rallye 340 4 speed car. Parked for 16 years. We are just starting to dig deep into what we have, we know the original 340 is gone and it has a 70 335HP 383. Big bonus we just discovered the broad cast sheet in the back seat (is that what you call it?), something tells me this is a good thing we are both bow-tie blooded Chevy guys, and first Mopar ever for me. We are redoing rear shackles, bushings and spring hangers this week.

Plan is to get it running nice, take care of any issues and sell it. The more I work on it the more I like it, the styling kind of grows on you. Needed a serious interior clean up before anything, sure has an odd Dodge odor to it we cant seem to scrub that out! lol.
Yesterday 12:52 PM
harposrepair I've been pretty busy working on my '90 Buick P/A w/3.8 and have changed the ignition module (5X), crank sensor, and PCM and it still dies after anytime between 5 minutes to 2 hours. The check engine light doesn't even come on while it's running so I can't get any codes to come up. This time I felt of the PCM and it's getting hot while it's running. Have any of you guys ran into a problem like this and found the cause? I've spent around $300 on this and still can't even take it across town or just to go to the store.
Yesterday 06:15 AM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
Good news. I have the sub tacked back in tonight. For some reason the normal factory holes are just not symmetricle on this thing. We clamped a piece of square tubing accross the front frame horns and confirmed the actual center......all down hill from there.

John
Give your brain a couple days to cool off.
07-21-2016 11:51 PM
The Belgian
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
I left out the part about the turn signal switch to avoid overwhelming you. Sounds like you're already at that crossroads. The signal switch and brake light inter-function is still a mystery to me as to how that actually works.
that's why i need the wiring diagram so i can figure out the right color of wire and it's correct function. just to sure where to connect the nex wires. been using google a while now and only can seem to find a 58 diagram. not sure if it's the right one though
07-21-2016 08:44 PM
cozwurth
Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
I was always leery of tightening a steel bolt into the soft threads and left them a little loose more often than not.

So now I'm using a stainless stud now instead of bolts.
I can crank it good and tight without fear of stripping the threads in the battery.
Yeah, I am too. I ended up with a stud on the positive terminal on my truck. It has two cables with a spacer between them. It was always coming loose before I installed a stud, but it never completely cut out like this Camaro did. I may have to switch the Camaro over to studs, too, if it happens again.

Dave
07-21-2016 05:00 PM
Too Many Projects
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
Good news. I have the sub tacked back in tonight. For some reason the normal factory holes are just not symmetricle on this thing. We clamped a piece of square tubing accross the front frame horns and confirmed the actual center......all down hill from there.

John
Yeah, you're just saying that....no proof...

Glad you got it figured out and moving forward again.
07-21-2016 04:46 PM
John long Good news. I have the sub tacked back in tonight. For some reason the normal factory holes are just not symmetricle on this thing. We clamped a piece of square tubing accross the front frame horns and confirmed the actual center......all down hill from there.

John
07-21-2016 03:50 PM
Too Many Projects
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Belgian View Post
thx guys!

and yes those are my last two options. i've got an industrial switch ready for use. the ground seems to be in good condition, allready have extra ground wires from bed and body to chassis and to battery. battery connections are good and not corroded. just need to find the right wiring diagram for the brake light switch and turn signal switch, they have something to do with each other working on it this weekend
I left out the part about the turn signal switch to avoid overwhelming you. Sounds like you're already at that crossroads. The signal switch and brake light inter-function is still a mystery to me as to how that actually works.
07-21-2016 02:53 PM
The Belgian
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
X2...

Light issues on old GM's seem to come from 2 common sources...dirty/rusted grounds and the headlight switch.
GM was fond of using the tail/brake light sockets to ground to the body, which needs to be well grounded to the frame and the frame back to the battery. It would've been so much easier to use a dedicated ground wire and circuit, but I guess they saved a few dollars on each vehicle by using the body instead.

Power to the headlights runs thru the switch and they can get corroded internally with age and not make contact.

thx guys!

and yes those are my last two options. i've got an industrial switch ready for use. the ground seems to be in good condition, allready have extra ground wires from bed and body to chassis and to battery. battery connections are good and not corroded. just need to find the right wiring diagram for the brake light switch and turn signal switch, they have something to do with each other working on it this weekend
07-21-2016 12:06 PM
harposrepair
Quote:
Originally Posted by John long View Post
It would not be the shims. I ignored everything but the lower ball joint. It, of course, does swing in an arc when it moves but is un-effected by the shims. A bad lower control arm bushing could throw it off.

At this point I just need to figure out what is causing the decrepancy. Then I can determine how to move forward. I do appreciate the input from you guys.

john

I have seen where someone has changed one control arm from other GM models that look similar, but are different lengths from bushings to ball joint. This method of replacement is ok if it's done in pairs, but throws things off when switching just one.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 123pugsy View Post
I was always leery of tightening a steel bolt into the soft threads and left them a little loose more often than not.

So now I'm using a stainless stud now instead of bolts.
I can crank it good and tight without fear of stripping the threads in the battery.

I've always had a problem keeping those side post battery cables tight until I started switching out the bolts to studs. There is a nut inside those posts, but it's still pulling on the lead it's molded into and those bolts have soft threads as well.

Maybe that's also why after market aluminum manifolds recommend using studs to mount carbs with instead of bolts.
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