Hot Rod Forum banner

never seen this before

35K views 36 replies 25 participants last post by  59RAMBLERSUPERWAGON 
#1 ·
I guess being a "wrench" is kinda like being a doctor. When at a party, and someone finds out that you do what you do for a living...

Anyway, a neighbor came to me with this; He has an '07 ford pickup, with the triton V-8 5.4l. It developed a misfire, so he elected to change the spark plugs. Now these are not your ordinary plugs. these things look more like an igniter for a stove, or a "torpedo" heater. Anyway, he found the culprit, and went to extract it, all came out except the part marked in the pic. it's still in the head, with the ceramic, and electrode still in it.

It's like it just snapped off at the base of the tapered part. (probably the reason it quit firing)

The picture is of one of the other plugs that he replaced @~$13 ea.

The part between the lines is all that's stuck in the head.

I've been delegated to come up with a method of extracting it, without removing the head, or ruining the rest of the engine.

I've gotten pretty good at removing the threaded parts of broken/seized plugs, but this is a new one on me.
 

Attachments

See less See more
1
#3 ·
There were a few years where the 3v modulars had issues with spark plugs seizing in the heads. There have even been cases of spark plugs blowing out. It's not an uncommon issue.

Here is a TSB addressing the issue. It addresses removal of the broken plugs. When you get the plug out and install new ones you absolutely MUST use antiseize on the new plugs.

http://www.saac-mcr.com/main/2008_TSB-Mod_Motor_Spark_Plugs.pdf

A friend of mine has a 2005 F-150 with over 110,000 miles that needs plugs. I know I'm going to end up doing it. Not looking forward to it.
 
#4 ·
There are several tools available for this from either Lisle or Snap on. Google it online. This is an ongoing problem with these engines and is why we get $500 + for a tune up. Plugs should be removed when engine is cold after sitting overnight. Soak plug holes with carb clean, or perhaps Kroil. After you break at least 2 out of the eight plugs. Reach in and remove the electode if you can. The tool is a special easy out that works really wellconsidering the circumstances. You first must crush the porcelin then the easy out part pulls the leftover part out. Be prepared to spend a good portion of your day working on this. Good luck my friend!
 
#6 ·
These are a b1tch. Without the extractor, this job can take days, and more headache than you can imagine. MAC makes a really good tool for this, when I was with Ford, Rotunda only supplied one tool to the shop, and often we had 6 or 8 of these in for service. So most of us techs bought our own tool from MAC, as it is superior to the Rotunda tool. Costs about $100 CAD off the truck, P/N PE391FC

 
#11 ·
The problem with these plugs is that they have a shield that extends down almost to the electrode, and that shield is the "2nd piece." On high mileage plugs it often adheres to the outside of the spark plug hole so that when you turn the plug to remove it the shield breaks loose and all you remove is the plug itself. The shield is still stuck in there around the outside.

Ford has also come out with an improved version of the 2 piece plug that is supposed to hold up better and not let the shield break loose. Always use anti-seize on the outside of the shield when you install the plug.

On Mustangs (4.6L engine) they recommend spraying PB blaster or something similar around the plug base before removal (cold engine). Then carefully turn the plug a little bit, and spray the PB blaster again. Follow this process several times and little by little let the PB blaster get between the shield and the head so that it breaks the bond.

Bruce
 
#12 ·
There are multiple Ford tech bulletins on the procedure. I like to start with a hot engine and spray each plug with Sili-Kroil and let it soak until the engine is just warm to the touch. Then, loosen the plug slightly and spray again. Then repeat until the plug has turned 1 revolution.
 
#13 ·
lmsport said:
There are multiple Ford tech bulletins on the procedure. I like to start with a hot engine and spray each plug with Sili-Kroil and let it soak until the engine is just warm to the touch. Then, loosen the plug slightly and spray again. Then repeat until the plug has turned 1 revolution.
I hate to contradict you, but the latest Ford TSB have changed some of this info.

Here is the latest TSB (I hope - and what I'm using to do my V10 plugs)

Dave W
 
#14 ·
I have seen that carb cleaner recommendation but still prefer my method and have alot of faith in Sili-Kroil. The local Ford dealer techs now use electric cordless impacts to remove the plugs and have much better results than when using hand tools. I am not brave enough to try that.

I would take anything Ford says with a grain of salt as they built the the things with a know defect for years.
 
#17 ·
not everyone is sick....

Can't advise you on this specific problem, but it seems like you've already been given some great info. Your party metaphor just reminded me of something one of my instructors told me when I was taking my auto tech classes years ago "being a mechanic is worse than being a doctor as far as friends always wanting you to help them with some problem or another because not everyone is sick, but everyone has a car"
 
#18 ·
The earlier (91 to 05) Triton engines had trouble pulling spark plug threads as well.

Dorman has come out with a repair kit of sorts for these, which uses that newer style extended tip plug in a different way.


Dorman #42025

Also available from NAPA
Balkamp # 600-3248

 
#21 ·
Ford builds the cheapest junk with the cheapest parts money can buy! The coils go out every other week. They sell new heads real cheep you might need a couple of new ones. It's a riot to put in ford spark plugs in your browser. Always good for a laugh. If you want to work on the motor just pull off the cab the ford manual says.
 
#24 ·
my neighbor just paid $800 to change his plugs on his f150 3 valve
tell your neighbor to save his receipt there is currently a class action suit on this he may be able to recoup his money.
ford really messed up on that long electrode plug and a 90k plug replacement policy.
now that the 3v mod motors are getting 100k miles on them this has reared it's ugly head.
anyone out there with 50k miles on a mod motor would be wise to change the plugs now.

the correct method is cold motor, loosen 1/2 turn, spray a little carb cleaner, next day loosen 1/2 turn, bit o carb cleaner and remove
careful with the carb cleaner, takes 8 oz to hydrolock a 3v motor
 
#25 ·
I can and have changed the plugs in my 04 Chevy SS in about 20 mins. They looked as good as the new ones only a little brown. And you can easily get to things on chev and dodges. Fords were designed to be quickly assembled on the line and are a nightmare to work on. I know this as I work for a boss who is a ford guy and all our trucks are fords. ( fleet mechanic). This week a clutch, an automatic trans fail. A coil and a computer water temp sender failure. Job security those fords. The planetary sets in the 99 v-10 had alum pins and I replaced all parts with aftermarket beefy stuff. Planetarys with six gears instead of four and steel pins not alum. Titanium sun shells better everything. The factory stuff is poor and the fact that the overdrive tranys revert to overdrive every time you start the truck. The tranys would last a lot longer if overdrive was only used on the freeway. Also non loaded trucks do a lot better. If you load them heavy like we do at work they can't take it.
 
#26 ·
fastest fix on ford plugs

sell it an buy a chevy :D :D
or like the old saying goes... its a quart low on water in the intake.
you can try this first an all these know it alls will say dont do it, but it works.
remove top of air cleaner, start engine then hold throttle from carb or throttle body at about 3500 rpm or more but not wound tight.
very very slowly poor water into intake just enough to bog engine but not stall it.
this instantly removes all carbon buildup from combustion chamber, valves,plugs, etc. also can help with cheap gas ping.
ps: on injected engines, the overly oxygenated exhaust will cause o2 sensor to enrichen engine for a short time ensuring no burnt valves. on carbs just poor a capfull of marvel oil down intake after to coat valves.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top