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Powerhouse 305 build

18K views 48 replies 18 participants last post by  ericnova72 
#1 ·
Ok, before i get started, let me ensure everyone who reads this, I fully understand that i could do more with a Gen 1 SBC, an LTX or an LSX. I also know that i will probably receive several negative comments about the 305, and how it is best suited to be a boat anchor, coffee table, etc... I am, however, determined to prove that the 305 is not the junk motor that most people think it is. I have done some research, and stumbled across an article from the January 2007 issue of Popular Hotrodding on a 305 build they did (here is the link for anyone who wants to read it, http://www.popularho...ks/viewall.html ). I have based my build plans on the same basic setup they were using, with some adjustments. In the article, their final result was a 372 horsepower 305, and that was using off-the-shelf aftermarket parts.

The motor, after it is finished and dyno tested, will be going into my 1984 Recaro Edition Trans Am, backed by a Tremec T56 manual transmission.


-What I'm proposing: A 500-525 horsepower fully built Carb'ed 305. (insert snickering, laughing, and 305 bashing comments here)

-My Plan: It consists of the following parts (subject to change assuming i can find parts better suited to the end goal)

-Block: completely stock 305 iron block from my 92 Camaro.


-Rotating Assembly: New 3.48" stroke crankshaft, new 5.700" connecting rods, new flat-top pistons, all standard size, no overbore, and no upstroke.


-Heads: 185cc intake runner Vortec Heads. Heads will be milled down by approximately .030" to reduce combustion chamber size to 58cc and in conjunction to the pistons, i should be running 10.2:1 compression (roughly). They will be running 1.95" intake valves and 1.5" exhaust valves, Comp Cams Elite Race dual springs.
A word on the heads, the Vortec heads from GM have an intake flow of roughly 233 cfm, this is, proportionately speaking, the equivalent of running a set of 290+ cfm intake flow heads on a 383 small block. running the 1.95/1.5 inch valves will keep shrouding to a minimum, but still allow enough flow into the cylinders for decent power.


-Camshaft: I am going to be running a custom grind cam. 276/282 total duration, 232/238 duration at .050" lift, .492"/.492" valve lift (with 1.6:1 rocker arms the valve lift would jump to .525"/.525") I will be running Hydraulic roller lifters, and 1.5:1 full roller rocker arms.


-Intake Manifold: I will probably run either a Victor Jr. or Super Victor single plane Intake Manifold for the top end power, I have looked into both dual and single plane, and the single plane seems a better fit for the build. I am still torn on this, as I have been looking at both the Victor's and the RPM Air Gap units...


-Carburetor: Holley 770CFM Ultra Street Avenger Carb (with black anodized metering blocks of course... since its going in a black car)... Electric choke, vacuum secondaries.

now, i have a few questions of my own...I have been running scenarios through desktop dyno 2003, and I have a question about BMEP numbers... what is the BMEP range for pump gas... i have a friend who was telling me that if the BMEP was too high, the motor would grenade itself.

If anyone has any questions, comments, or any input at all, please feel free to comment!
 
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#2 ·
hey i think what u ur thinking is a decent set up but need some minor changes depending on if this is for a street car or for a race car first thing get a 650 cfm carb with a bigger throttle plate the 770cfm is just to much for it also if you plan on turning high rpms use the single plane and change the rocker studs to screw in instead of the stock press in kind also are you planning on doing this all motor or are you adding nitrous or super charger or turbo to it personally if its a street car i would go to a dual plane weiland intake port match it to the heads also to reach your goal you should think about some aluminum heads or port and polishing the vortec heads if you can get it done cheap enough get larger valves screw in rocker studs and add the bottle it is going to be hard and really expensive to get 550 out of a 305 with stock bore and stroke i have a couple ideas of how to get the power you want just asked if you want to know hope this helps some
 
#3 ·
I'm trying to hit the 500 horse mark on all motor, but if I cant get that to work, I will turn to a supercharger. I refuse to bottle feed anything... never did like NOS, my little brother just cracked his intake manifold because his motor backfired when he hit the nos yesterday...

I have a friend in NC who has built 2 remote Supercharger setups, one using an Eaton M90 and the other using an Eaton m122. If i have to got supercharged, I will probably build a setup very similar to his, though i would prefer not to since i really dont want to mount an Intercooler on the 84 Recaro T/A...

I am open to suggestions as to what i would need to get it to 500+ horse, I have already gotten a couple emails back from Comp Cams on a custom grind cam.
 
#4 ·
one way would be get you a 334 stroker kit from summit with ur vortec heads port and polish job that kit wit just the vortecs and a mild cam will put you around 400 ftlbs of torque so get a good cam port match everything and you will get some power out of it also remember if you decide to run a super charger you need to lower you compression try using so dish pistons instead in my opinion those heads a good cam with that stroker kit would be a fun street engine that would impress but would be a lot my fun with a supercharger set up ontop of it it would be a real torque monster that would be beating up alot of 350s out there
 
#5 ·
Dude you are not even close, the set up you have described would get you about 360hp out of a 305. Vortecs flow around 230 @ .500" with a 4.000 350 bore but with a smaller bore it creates less flow due to reduction in the size of the "vaccum". Those same vortex heads on a 305 with a 3.736" bore would only flow about 215 cfm @ .500". And this by no means converts to a 383 with 290 cfm heads, it doesn't work like that. A general rule of thumb to follow when looking at how much power a set of heads can produce on a perfect motor is to take its peak flow and multiply it by 2. Since on a 305 vortexes would put out about 215 cfm then about the maximum that you could expect to get from that motor is around 430hp and that would be on a perfect build.

Pretty much to get a 305 to hit 500 hp you will need to go forced induction or be able to spin it upwards of 8000 rpm and be running 13:1 compression and the combination you have there would only spin up to around 6000-6200 rpm.

I'm sorry bud but you are WAY off
 
#6 ·
the stroker kit is a possibility, but I really wanted to keep is as close to stock bore and stroke as possible... i will probably have to bore the block to make sure the cylinder walls are good (ie no gouges, not too far out of round, etc).

Assuming a .030" overbore, I'd be running it as a 309.9, which wouldnt really upset me too much. I am aiming for roughly 10.2:1 compression with the vortec heads, the 62-64cc combustion chamber in conjunction with a .039" gasket, 0cc flat top pistons and having the block zero-decked would get me close.

If I decide that i have to go supercharged, I will most likely drop compression to 8.5:1 or maybe a touch less.
I would be using an Eaton M90 from a 3800 series 2 or 3 supercharged v6, and running it through an intercooler. With the stock 3.8" supercharger pulley and the stock harmonic balancer, it would give me an approximate belt ratio of 2.1:1, so it would be running at about 14-16 PSI. (on the 3800 the 3.8" pulley runs a 1.58:1 ratio and is set at the factory for about 8 PSI.). I should be able to make well over 575 horse and 500 torque at 6000 rpm with the right cam.
 
#8 · (Edited)
my87Z said:
Dude you are not even close, the set up you have described would get you about 360hp out of a 305. Vortecs flow around 230 @ .500" with a 4.000 350 bore but with a smaller bore it creates less flow due to reduction in the size of the "vaccum". Those same vortex heads on a 305 with a 3.736" bore would only flow about 215 cfm @ .500". And this by no means converts to a 383 with 290 cfm heads, it doesn't work like that. A general rule of thumb to follow when looking at how much power a set of heads can produce on a perfect motor is to take its peak flow and multiply it by 2. Since on a 305 vortexes would put out about 215 cfm then about the maximum that you could expect to get from that motor is around 430hp and that would be on a perfect build.

Pretty much to get a 305 to hit 500 hp you will need to go forced induction or be able to spin it upwards of 8000 rpm and be running 13:1 compression and the combination you have there would only spin up to around 6000-6200 rpm.

I'm sorry bud but you are WAY off
what i had said about the heads flowing the same on a 305 as a set of 290cfm heads would flow on a 383 was pulled directly from the Popular Hotrodding article i linked to, I am going off their information... and I plugged their build into my dyno program, and it was almost dead on, and started making my changes from there.
EDIT: didnt realize the link was jacked up... http://www.popularhotrodding.com/en...667_phrs_305_chevy_engine_blocks/viewall.html
 
#9 ·
WOW!

I have never seen a 0cc flat top piston, they all pretty much have valve reliefs in them ranging from 4cc to 7cc

575hp and 500tq @ 6000 rpm with a 305!!!

I'm sorry but based on the things you have mentioned, you are no where near where you need to be knowledge wise to take on a project like this, cause everything you have mentioned is something a "magazine reader" would say.

Lower your expectations to say 350hp, and you may be successful with a lot of help from people on here.
 
#10 ·
A dyno sim program is exactly what it is, a computer making guesstimates. My dyno sim program has my motor making over 670hp, on a true engine dyno it pulled 100 less hp. And the comment on the heads between a 383 and a 305 makes no sense, maybe I would have to read the article to better understand what they are trying to say but the way you put it makes no sense.

Put it like this, my old set up on my 385 had 292 cfm @ .550", a 240 @ .050 cam and 10.4:1 compression, it was professionally dyno tested and tuned and it came out with 512hp @ 5900 rpm. You are expecting similar numbers from far less flowing heads, 80 less cubes, one of the smallest cylinder bore SBC motors ever, and to do it all at the same rpm
 
#11 ·
You are going to fall way short of your goals with those heads and that camshaft trying to feed a small amount of cubes. An engine is an air pump, nothing more. In goes the air with a corresponding amount of fuel, and it goes boom. To get 305 cubic inches up near the 500-525hp mark those heads will need to flow around 300cfm, and the cam will need to be generous. Something around a 250/260 @.050" minimum. The only problem is that there are no cylinder heads capable of flowing that kind of air with a small bore 3.8" which is what you have. Even if you got a heavily ported set of heads to flow near that number, you'd need a camshaft that would peak well over 7000rpm. To run that kind of rpm, you'll need a solid roller cam, strong lifters, big pushrods, shaft rockers, good springs, etc, etc. That stuff adds up real quick. You'd have yourself a nice $10,000 305, that makes as much power as a $6000 383 but about 100ft/lbs less torque.

I'm not knocking your 305 idea, but 500hp isn't going to happen unless you go forced induction or n2o. You can still build it stout and make 400hp.
 
#12 ·
my87Z said:
WOW!

I have never seen a 0cc flat top piston, they all pretty much have valve reliefs in them ranging from 4cc to 7cc

575hp and 500tq @ 6000 rpm with a 305!!!

I'm sorry but based on the things you have mentioned, you are no where near where you need to be knowledge wise to take on a project like this, cause everything you have mentioned is something a "magazine reader" would say.

Lower your expectations to say 350hp, and you may be successful with a lot of help from people on here.
http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/pist...ypereutectic-flat-top-pistons-3-736-bore.html
that there is a 305 sbc 0cc flat top piston from keith black.

I have been basing all my numbers off my desktop dyno 2003 program, (i have questioned the accuracy before, but for chevy small blocks it seems to be very close to an actual dyno, as i have used friends build specs on actual dyno'd motors) all numbers that i have quoted have been at the crank.
The 575hp and 500tq @ 6000 rpm was based off a supercharged setup running 14PSI into an intercooler at 50% efficiency, that again, dyno 2003 spit out.
 
#13 ·
It sure enough is, and you want to know why people don't see those type pistons very often, it's because at a moderate lift and high rpm were you run into valve float you are going to smack the pistons and bend the valves. Even a forced induction 305 will need to run up past 7000 rpm to hit 575, and a NA 305 would have to spin upwards of 8000 to hit 500hp.

I'm not knocking your idea of building a stout 305, I have one in my spare Iroc that I built last year that I would say produces around 340hp. My current motor set up I have over 8,000 into it, it's the same 385 but with machined heads producing 319cfm at .650" (flow tested in front of me), I have a A cam that is 255 @ .050 .640" 11.2:1 compression i shift at 6600-6700 rpm and it makes 570hp/530tq.

In a smaller cube motor you have to turn more rpm to make higher hp (rpm=hp)

I'm sorry but you are just not close, what you have described is only a 350ish hp motor
 
#14 ·
Consider forced induction. I just finished putting the long block together for a twin turbo 305 this weekend. I'm going for 400-450hp at 12 -15 psi. It may come apart but hey its a 305. No one wants them and I only have maybe $300 into it. Listen to what everyone else is saying. Theres a reason why very few build these for performance. Your not gonna prove anyone wrong and come up with some amazing secret. Any thing you can do on a 305 can be done on a 350 and make more power.
 
#16 ·
i think we have scrared the little fella of, i guess he though he could come on here and BS his way into knowlege.

to the OP dont be afraid to ask questions, i'm sure we will be happy to help you, but my suggestion would be that you do some reading on some real boxs not magazines.

check these out, you will learn a lot.

http://www.amazon.com/David-Vizards...=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1333375587&sr=1-1

http://www.amazon.com/David-Vizards-Build-Horsepower-Design/dp/1934709174/ref=pd_sim_b_2

http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Blueprinting-Practical-Rebuilding-S/dp/1884089267/ref=pd_sim_b_5

http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Blueprinting-Practical-Rebuilding-S/dp/1884089267/ref=pd_sim_b_5

http://www.amazon.com/Chevrolet-Sma...r_1_10?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1333375701&sr=1-10

http://www.amazon.com/Chevrolet-Sma...r_1_13?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1333375769&sr=1-13

http://www.amazon.com/How-Build-Hor...=sr_1_8?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1333375816&sr=1-8

buy these books, read them. afterwards you will have a much better understanding of how things work, how they go together, and how to spot a novice.
 
#19 ·
would you prefer this:

get a set of domed pistons say 5cc (forged), forged rods, forged crank.
buy a set of 180cc aluminum heads with 64cc chambers, make sure they have a very thick hard deck (cause they cost less to machine) with 1.94 intake valves, send them to a very reputable head shop and have them put 2.00 int valves (larger valves would be a big help but they wont fit in the 3.766 .030 over bore with enough clearance) in and have them mill them down about .090" to get you to about 50-52cc chambers ( :( ) you will need to send them your single plane intake as well so that they mill it down to match the heads, also have them go in and CNC the heads to about 205-210cc and able to flow around 300cfm @ .600". buy a solid roller cam with around 250° @ .050 and around .600" lift. blueprint the bottom end to reduce everybit of friction you can (= free hp) and also have the bottom end balanced to very tight tolerances, use a good ATI damper (i would call them) have a Holley 750cfm DP carb worked with dual 50cc pumps, butterflies shaved...i would go with a thicker quench say .050" and do some serious mock up to make sure that the valves have plenty of clearnance at TDC. after all this i would take the motor to a reputable dyno shop and have them completely test and tune it. $$$$ you will likely have everybit of 8000-9000 into all this

with all this you should have a motor that will turn a 305 up to around 7800-8200 and if i had to guess it would be the low 500hp range.
 
#20 ·
my87Z said:
would you prefer this:

get a set of domed pistons say 5cc (forged), forged rods, forged crank.
buy a set of 180cc aluminum heads with 64cc chambers, make sure they have a very thick hard deck (cause they cost less to machine) with 1.94 intake valves, send them to a very reputable head shop and have them put 2.00 int valves (larger valves would be a big help but they wont fit in the 3.766 .030 over bore with enough clearance) in and have them mill them down about .090" to get you to about 50-52cc chambers ( :( ) you will need to send them your single plane intake as well so that they mill it down to match the heads, also have them go in and CNC the heads to about 205-210cc and able to flow around 300cfm @ .600". buy a solid roller cam with around 250° @ .050 and around .600" lift. blueprint the bottom end to reduce everybit of friction you can (= free hp) and also have the bottom end balanced to very tight tolerances, use a good ATI damper (i would call them) have a Holley 750cfm DP carb worked with dual 50cc pumps, butterflies shaved...i would go with a thicker quench say .050" and do some serious mock up to make sure that the valves have plenty of clearnance at TDC. after all this i would take the motor to a reputable dyno shop and have them completely test and tune it. $$$$ you will likely have everybit of 8000-9000 into all this

with all this you should have a motor that will turn a 305 up to around 7800-8200 and if i had to guess it would be the low 500hp range.
Looks like someone else has been reading magazines too... :pain:

If you're really after a 500hp 305 then clean up the ports and chambers in the heads, swap in a little bigger cam, and turbo it. Its the cheapest, most reliable, and easiest way to reach those goals. If you have a good running 305 you could do it all for about a grand and a half.
 
#21 ·
my87Z said:
i think we have scrared the little fella of, i guess he though he could come on here and BS his way into knowlege.

to the OP dont be afraid to ask questions, i'm sure we will be happy to help you, but my suggestion would be that you do some reading on some real boxs not magazines.

check these out, you will learn a lot.

http://www.amazon.com/David-Vizards...=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1333375587&sr=1-1

http://www.amazon.com/David-Vizards-Build-Horsepower-Design/dp/1934709174/ref=pd_sim_b_2

http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Blueprinting-Practical-Rebuilding-S/dp/1884089267/ref=pd_sim_b_5

http://www.amazon.com/Engine-Blueprinting-Practical-Rebuilding-S/dp/1884089267/ref=pd_sim_b_5

http://www.amazon.com/Chevrolet-Sma...r_1_10?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1333375701&sr=1-10

http://www.amazon.com/Chevrolet-Sma...r_1_13?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1333375769&sr=1-13

http://www.amazon.com/How-Build-Hor...=sr_1_8?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1333375816&sr=1-8

buy these books, read them. afterwards you will have a much better understanding of how things work, how they go together, and how to spot a novice.
nope, didnt scare me away, just had to get to bed... army life, LOL.
I appreciate the links, I'll be sure to read them, and I apollogize for being a bit hostile yesterday, I am going to rework a few different part combinations, and see what people think.

THANK YOU to all who have posted so far, and i hope to get more feedback!
-Rob
 
#22 ·
To AP, I was posting on about what I thought it would take to make a 305 turn pretty high rpm to make 500hp NA. I've never tried to build a 305 with that kind of power so I was doing some guessing but I think what I posted would be pretty accurate. I have very minimal knowledge on forced induction because I don't care for it what so ever, I guess I'm a little old school like that.
 
#24 ·
Okay on a serious note im gonna be finishing up my 305 build here in a couple weeks hopefully. Its a ..... lets call it a very budget friendly twin turbo junk yard project lol. I will post what kind of numbers my s10 runs with it and such. I only have maybe $750 into it between the two turbos, gaskets fresh rings and bearing.

They are some stock heads that I did a new valve job and lapped the valves. Rings gaps have been widened up enough to allow for expansion so they don't butt and crank the ring lands.

Has a $125 cam and lifter set from howards.

Im hoping for around 12-15psi and maybe 400hp. It will be a fun project and experiment and hey if it doesn't work out oh well. im having fun and learning as I go.

When you deal with engines that have smaller bores making power NA becomes harder due to valve shrouding and limited selection of cylinder heads and many other factors.... hence why im going with forced induction. You would be better off starting with a SBC 302 to prove something about displacement with its 4" bore but hey anyways good luck with what you decide and keep learning from everyone's .02.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Raith87 said:
Ok, before i get started, let me ensure everyone who reads this, I fully understand that i could do more with a Gen 1 SBC, an LTX or an LSX. I also know that i will probably receive several negative comments about the 305, and how it is best suited to be a boat anchor, coffee table, etc... I am, however, determined to prove that the 305 is not the junk motor that most people think it is. I have done some research, and stumbled across an article from the January 2007 issue of Popular Hotrodding on a 305 build they did (here is the link for anyone who wants to read it, http://www.popularho...ks/viewall.html ). I have based my build plans on the same basic setup they were using, with some adjustments. In the article, their final result was a 372 horsepower 305, and that was using off-the-shelf aftermarket parts.

The motor, after it is finished and dyno tested, will be going into my 1984 Recaro Edition Trans Am, backed by a Tremec T56 manual transmission.


-What I'm proposing: A 500-525 horsepower fully built Carb'ed 305. (insert snickering, laughing, and 305 bashing comments here)

-My Plan: It consists of the following parts (subject to change assuming i can find parts better suited to the end goal)

-Block: completely stock 305 iron block from my 92 Camaro.


-Rotating Assembly: New 3.48" stroke crankshaft, new 5.700" connecting rods, new flat-top pistons, all standard size, no overbore, and no upstroke.


-Heads: 185cc intake runner Vortec Heads. Heads will be milled down by approximately .030" to reduce combustion chamber size to 58cc and in conjunction to the pistons, i should be running 10.2:1 compression (roughly). They will be running 1.95" intake valves and 1.5" exhaust valves, Comp Cams Elite Race dual springs.
A word on the heads, the Vortec heads from GM have an intake flow of roughly 233 cfm, this is, proportionately speaking, the equivalent of running a set of 290+ cfm intake flow heads on a 383 small block. running the 1.95/1.5 inch valves will keep shrouding to a minimum, but still allow enough flow into the cylinders for decent power.


-Camshaft: I am going to be running a custom grind cam. 276/282 total duration, 232/238 duration at .050" lift, .492"/.492" valve lift (with 1.6:1 rocker arms the valve lift would jump to .525"/.525") I will be running Hydraulic roller lifters, and 1.5:1 full roller rocker arms.


-Intake Manifold: I will probably run either a Victor Jr. or Super Victor single plane Intake Manifold for the top end power, I have looked into both dual and single plane, and the single plane seems a better fit for the build. I am still torn on this, as I have been looking at both the Victor's and the RPM Air Gap units...


-Carburetor: Holley 770CFM Ultra Street Avenger Carb (with black anodized metering blocks of course... since its going in a black car)... Electric choke, vacuum secondaries.

now, i have a few questions of my own...I have been running scenarios through desktop dyno 2003, and I have a question about BMEP numbers... what is the BMEP range for pump gas... i have a friend who was telling me that if the BMEP was too high, the motor would grenade itself.

If anyone has any questions, comments, or any input at all, please feel free to comment!
Not without a blower or nitrous. BMEP has nothing to do with grenading the motor, it's basically a pressure efficiency measure, gas street engines run in the zone of about 8.5 to 10.5 BAR. A bar is about 14.5 psi (not 14.7) at standard temperature which doesn't exist in a running engine. It's thought of as the average cylinder pressure over the length of the stroke. Again in the real world there isn't any such thing. The pressure on the piston is a massive blast of heat and force in about the first 90 to 110 degrees of crank rotation on the power stroke, what remains of the 720 degrees in the cycle is coasting from that blast.

The problem with the 305 is that it has all the disadvantages of a long stroke, small bore engine. It has high piston speeds, high centrifugal loading at the rod to crank attachments combined with the poor breathing of a small bore diameter. At least a 350 does away with the breathing problems. A high flowing head tested on a 4 inch bore will not flow the same on a 3.73 inch bore even with the same valve sizes, not even close so forget the port volume to displacement comparisons to the 383 it's meaningless because the physics of the small bore work against the simple solution. A small displacement engine has to substitute high RPM horsepower for lower end torque. The problems of a 305 as to getting into high RPMs are a lot more difficult than the 4 inch bore 302. So if you want a small motor that goes fast; the venerable 302 with its 4 inch bore and 3 inch stroke is the way to go. Otherwise just build a 350, that at least will end up having the power of your dreams instead of becoming a technical nightmare.

Yes you can build a 500 horsepower 305 but the BMEP equations you're playing with will take you into the arena of serious power output engines like NASCAR Cup motors with BMEP's up in the range of 12 to 15 bar. This moves you out of factory 2 bolt main blocks, cast iron cranks, factory rods or even cheap 4340 rods, and certainly no hypereutectic cast pistons. This is moving into the area of Callies cranks, Dyers rods, and Mahle pistons. This quickly converts a 3000 dollar street performance build into a 30,000 race engine to get at the kind of power with some length of life you're dreaming of. You can get that kind of power out of a 350, or better yet a 383, for a lot less money as they are so much more efficient at turning gasoline into power than a 305. A 350 that delivers 400 horses is an absolute no brainer and 500 is not too much more difficult or expensive, it's almost taking a 350 with Vortec heads and a comp XE272 cam and trading the heads for some RHS's or AFRs or Darts and jazzing the cam to an XE282 with some tweaking to the compression and valve train then standing back and smiling; OK, s**t eating grinning. Most of this is in that extra quarter inch of bore, it's a world of difference. Ford has the same experience with the 289 and 302 Windsor (4 inch bore short stroke). A lesson about bore diameter to stroke ratios that Chrysler with the LA block didn't learn till the 340. There's something magic that just happens at 4 inches of bore and beyond with an inline valve wedge engine. The backside advantage is an engine that just makes lots of power and doesn't cost an arm and leg from your first born to get it.

"...I have done some research, and stumbled across an article from the January 2007 issue of Popular Hotrodding on a 305 build they did (here is the link for anyone who wants to read it, http://www.popularho...ks/viewall.html ). I have based my build plans on the same basic setup they were using, with some adjustments. In the article, their final result was a 372 horsepower 305, and that was using off-the-shelf aftermarket parts."

I have to wonder how these guys get the power numbers they toss around in these magazine articles. Kind of like back in the age of dinosaurs I was at the San Diego County Fair where this ambulance company had a booth with a Caddy 390 powered ambulance that they claimed delivered 500 horsepower. They did it with an OEM 4 barrel Rochester carb, stock Caddy cam, factory exhaust manifolds and dual exhaust into a Hyda-Matic 4 speed transmission (iron box automatic not today’s stuff). I was campaigning a 390 Ford FE at the time and with all the rocket science of the day it couldn't get to 500 horses. So I have my lingering suspicions about magazine articles and ambulance companies that pick out numbers from thin air. Add to that it appears the spell checker isn't working, Mr. Moderator are you behind the curtain. I saw no errors when first running the spell checking. I'm a professional engineer so I know it's not possible for me to compose this much without spelling errors so I dumped this into Word and got more of what I expected, as I know I ain't gonna win no spelling bee.

Bogie
 
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