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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-05-2012 07:45 PM
Cape Cod Bob I believe Dantwolakes, the upolstery guru on here would suggest this.http://www.perfectfit.com/24783/1483...ray-Grade.html
04-04-2012 07:21 PM
nine4gmc thats about right with price, labor is expensive. even though it is kind of straight forward job, it is labor intense on some cars. plus, you get what you pay for when you don't know how to do something yourself. oh, as mentioned, six hands DO help!

that being said, the glue prices seem a little steep. Lowes carries 3M gallons for about $35-40 here. while it may not take a gallon, it will take more than 1 quart, so imo you would come out cheaper buying from lowes/home depot, possibly walmart(they used to carry it).
04-04-2012 05:49 PM
ClarkDart70 Thanks for the responses guys! I got some good news today from two local upholestry shops that install vinyl tops. Both will sell out the cements that they use by the quart. The closet shop uses 3M contact cement for EVERYTHING they do (They do marine applications as well) and swear by the 3M stuff ($15 a qt.) The other shop is alittle further away and will sell the DAP Landau contact cement for $20 a qt. Both shops say these products have been both brushed and sprayed on different jobs.
The funny part is, both shops say putting a vinyl top on is pretty easy and straight forward if you take your time and think ahead on your steps.... but both charge $350-$400 just for labor to install a top. Vinyl top price is in addition to the labor. Unreal.

Thanks again. I'll be tackling this job May week 1, after I paint it April week 3.


Clark
04-04-2012 04:57 PM
BOBCRMAN@aol.com I installed over fifty of them back in the sixties/seventies..

I only used brush on setup if I was at a body shop type on site location doing partial/repairs etc. Because of the consistancy. Brush on is diffucult to spread evenly. Gets lots of "boogers" in it. Your work area has to be somewhat warm to stretch and form the vinyl.

The best way is to use a sprayable cement. I had two favorites that are no longer around. Kind of a green-yellow color. Came in 5-gal containers. Used a LARGE nozzle in a JGA gun with a pressure pot. Cob webbing can be a problem in hot working areas. I would shoot the seams first. let it set up, then carefully fold seam under pressure. The full length. Then shoot top. Shoot roof. wait till dry, then lay out glazed butcher paper on 1/2 the roof. Lay and stretch out out the other side. Then carefully slide the paper out as stretching the next side.. Really takes about six hands..
04-04-2012 08:06 AM
Old Fool You can roll Contact Cement on, just do a strip down the middle, adhere that portion , then work out one side a roller width at a time.
Cover the roller and pan with plastic wrap as soon as you roll a strip and it will not thicken up nearly as fast.
More in the pan is better too.

Put a number of them on that way back in the 70's never had a problem.
Spray would be faster, but I don't know about better.
04-04-2012 01:30 AM
ClarkDart70 Good deal. Thanks again!
04-04-2012 01:26 AM
nine4gmc sorry, I must not have been clear. Never use aerosol glue on any part that will be in direct sunlight, or high heat areas, it will FAIL. it may look good when you first do it and it stays inside, but after a few days/weeks in the weather, it will fail.

I have only used aerosol glue to tack vinyl to pad before sewing. ANY other gluing and I use the compressor and spray gun with either 3M Contact Cement or the Landau Top & Trim Adhesive in gallons/5 gallons.

I do not reccomend aerosol for any job that won't be sewn, stapled or some how secured around the edges other than glue.
04-04-2012 12:35 AM
ClarkDart70 Thanks for the response. I plan to install this in my garage which is out of light and is temp. controlled. Because it would go on after the paint job... it will also have the chance to sit indoors for a days maybe even a week or two to fully setup before actually being in the sun while I put everything else back together as well. How did the aerosol super adehesive work for you? Any issues?
04-04-2012 12:32 AM
nine4gmc I have used both Landau Top and Trim Adhesive, and 3M Contact Cement in the gallon containers with an old paint sprayer and compressor. A brush and 3M may work as well, I have always had a spray gun for glue so idk how the brush method would come out. As for aerosol can glue, NEVER use it in high heat, direct sunlight areas or you will hate yourself.
04-04-2012 12:04 AM
ClarkDart70
Vinyl Top Glue

Ok, so I have been reading thread after thread about which type of vinyl top glues to use (and avoid) and all that I come across is conflicting info.
I read an online article in Mopar Muscle (I think) and they used a brush on contact cement, but didn't specify what kind. I have also read that 3M Super Trim Adhesive 08090 has very good and then another guy says to avoid aerosol cans of anything. Another guy says that formica countertop contact adhesive will hold it in place extremely well.
I don't have the $400 to pay the local shop to glue this on for me. I do have the skill set to be able to do it myself, but want to use the correct, quality products to make sure it stays on and in place. I bought the correct vinyl top from Yearone and plan to do it in a few weeks after I spray my car.
Anyone have ACTUAL experience with the 3M Super trim experience or using a brush on contact cement they can share with me??


Thanks everyone,
Clark

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