Swapping a small block Chevy into my 62 Studebaker Lark. Now that everything is installed my rear end flange is angled up 2 1/2 degrees relative to the transmission. I can buy shims for the rear end in 2 degree or 4 degrees. Should I use 2 degrees and have the rear end be up 1/2 degree or use 4 degrees and have it angled 1 1/2 degrees down relative to the transmission? This is a street car. I can't move the tailshaft of the trans upward due to clearance for the shifter (car has a narrow trans tunnel). And I can't lower the trans due to the design of the trans mount I had to fabricate. Appreciate your thoughts. Thanks
i don't think 2 1/2° is gonna make alot of diff... but ck the tranny angle and put the rear nose up the same angle... u can put an angle finder on the trans pan..
Should be angled down a degree or two relative to the transmission/engine angle. When power is applied the rear axle will try to rotate the pinion nose up, so you have to allow for that. High powered cars with leaf springs will sometimes be angled as much as 5-7° pinion down relative to the trans to allow for how much it will twist up.
delawarebill is correct. Angle the pinion the same as the trans output shaft except in the opposite direction plus or minus 1 degree. ericnova72's recommendations will work well for a car that spends most of its time on the drag strip, but for street driving you want the angles within a degree of parallel.
Swapping a small block Chevy into my 62 Studebaker Lark. Now that everything is installed my rear end flange is angled up 2 1/2 degrees relative to the transmission. I can buy shims for the rear end in 2 degree or 4 degrees. Should I use 2 degrees and have the rear end be up 1/2 degree or use 4 degrees and have it angled 1 1/2 degrees down relative to the transmission? This is a street car. I can't move the tailshaft of the trans upward due to clearance for the shifter (car has a narrow trans tunnel). And I can't lower the trans due to the design of the trans mount I had to fabricate. Appreciate your thoughts. Thanks
2 degree shims and a pinion snubber set to just touch the casting as far towards the transmission as you can (better mechanical advantage to resist the normal tendency for the pinion to climb the ring gear under acceleration) is one way to do it. I would use more 'pinion down' if it was a dedicated drag car.
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