Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board - Reply to Topic
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior> Has anyone used Xtreme Flat Finish?
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Thread: Has anyone used Xtreme Flat Finish? Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
04-10-2012 02:51 PM
piercetdg Oh so everything is now sanded and finished with 3000? I think you're right to be cautious about edges that come out. It's a good idea to hand compound those to be extra safe. I did a spot repair a few weeks ago and I burned through the 2 day old clear coat with a DA, which is a heck of a lot safer than a rotary buffer. But if you got to buff the entire panel then yeah it would make sense to tape the edges that stick out.
04-10-2012 02:42 PM
inkfreak1976
Quote:
Originally Posted by piercetdg
You should buy a piece of 1x2 foot welding metal and try shooting that. But the most important part is shaking for 2 minutes, not 10 seconds, not 30 and not 1 minute, but 2 minutes. It shouldn't be easy to do. Then spray it like you would anything else.

I'm not sure what you mean about you fixing the stripes. What I would of done is feather out the edge of the stripe, sand everything with 1000, spray base on the stripes, reclear the entire panel.
ok im sorry i might have been a bit confusing with my last post,
what i ment to say was that, i had origanaly sprayed the flat clear on just my grapics witch is a raceing stripe, ( black with flat clear) the flat clear came out heavily tiger striped and inconsistant texture some came out nice and smooth and then some with heavy orange peel. i sprayed 4 coats to try and smooth out the clear and make consistant with no luck. the person that im painting the car for was very unhappy with the result and decidid to go with the same clear on the stripes as the rest of the car.
the car after epoxy sealer was based then cleared with 2 coats of clear then wet sanded at 600 grit, grapixs applied then i sprayed the flat clear, with terrible results. i then wet sanded the grapixs down with 600 grit. i didnt break threw so i didnt have to reapplie the base, i then sprayed the whole car with 4 heavy coats of high solids clear. waited a week then wet sanded starting at 1500 then to 2000 then to 3000 grit. with nice smooth results.
the graphixs on the edges it can be felt almost as if i had placed a decal then cleared over it, i did sand all three grits over the the edges of the grapixs but only litely,
im now at the buffing stage and im unsure how to go about buffing over the graphixs with the slightly raised edge. do i tape the edges then hand compound the edges or should i just go about buffing and hope i dont tear into the base or lift the edge. i normaly dont do much buffing on my jobs, i have a guy that does it for me. but he is on vaction and wont be back before i have to delever the car. so i have to do the buffing my self, ive buffed before but mainly on solid color cars none with grapixs and im unsure how to procede with this stage.
04-10-2012 10:56 AM
piercetdg You should buy a piece of 1x2 foot welding metal and try shooting that. But the most important part is shaking for 2 minutes, not 10 seconds, not 30 and not 1 minute, but 2 minutes. It shouldn't be easy to do. Then spray it like you would anything else.

I'm not sure what you mean about you fixing the stripes. What I would of done is feather out the edge of the stripe, sand everything with 1000, spray base on the stripes, reclear the entire panel.
04-10-2012 01:52 AM
inkfreak1976
Quote:
Originally Posted by piercetdg
I did get it to work and lay down right but my customer prefers the slightly glossy flat look. But yeah it looks exactly like those flat black vinyl wrapped cars, it's like a painted molding, 100% no gloss.
The two secrets are that you need to shake the clear for an incredibly long time, if you're doing a whole car maybe get a friend to shake it for literally 2 minutes. Once done, it'll come out looking like lemonade, might even have a few bubbles. Now when you put it on the car, put it exactly like you would a wet clear and you will see orange peel and you will see foggy stripes. Turn the heat up really high and let it bake for an hour and you'll see that it totally changes. No more orange peel texture and absolutely no gloss and most importantly, no foggy stripes.
If you want to have the colour a little brighter like how some matt black paint jobs look grey, pull the gun back an inch or two.
im a garage painter i donet have a heat dryer, wish i did. but for me the final resault came out terrible ill never use it again. its just to hard to hope that you have the right results. with my job i ended up haveing to strip down the flat clear and re coat the color then i shot over with high solids clear. it looks better any ways in my opinion and my client loves the glossy look, bad thing is i was doing just a raceing stripe in the flat and i didnt strip all the way to the edge so when i cleared over it ive got a small edge. ive wet sanded over it with 15,2g and 3g grit, and now im getting ready to buff, do i need to tape off those lines or should i be ok.
04-05-2012 03:52 PM
piercetdg
Quote:
Originally Posted by inkfreak1976
i used this product and in my opioin it sucks, my job came out the same way after test panels thinking i dialed in my gun, and tech. the finish came out patchy, tiger striped, and glossy in other areas. unless you have a vast number of years painting and a sata jet, i wouldnt recomend spraying this, i ended up haveing to sand and reclear glossy this time. came out like glass.
you could try like a med solids clear to get the flat look, or i think they also have a satin style depending on the paint your useing. once i even used a med solids clear and basicly just gave it many tack coats. or dry spray. since your not wet sanding it or buffing it. even if you did with the pre mixed it would no longer be flat. the job looked really good and consistant better than the product that your asking about. do some research before spraying. its a real pain in the butt. good luck if you get it to work let me know how you got it to lay down right.
I did get it to work and lay down right but my customer prefers the slightly glossy flat look. But yeah it looks exactly like those flat black vinyl wrapped cars, it's like a painted molding, 100% no gloss.
The two secrets are that you need to shake the clear for an incredibly long time, if you're doing a whole car maybe get a friend to shake it for literally 2 minutes. Once done, it'll come out looking like lemonade, might even have a few bubbles. Now when you put it on the car, put it exactly like you would a wet clear and you will see orange peel and you will see foggy stripes. Turn the heat up really high and let it bake for an hour and you'll see that it totally changes. No more orange peel texture and absolutely no gloss and most importantly, no foggy stripes.
If you want to have the colour a little brighter like how some matt black paint jobs look grey, pull the gun back an inch or two.
04-04-2012 10:40 PM
inkfreak1976 i used this product and in my opioin it sucks, my job came out the same way after test panels thinking i dialed in my gun, and tech. the finish came out patchy, tiger striped, and glossy in other areas. unless you have a vast number of years painting and a sata jet, i wouldnt recomend spraying this, i ended up haveing to sand and reclear glossy this time. came out like glass.
you could try like a med solids clear to get the flat look, or i think they also have a satin style depending on the paint your useing. once i even used a med solids clear and basicly just gave it many tack coats. or dry spray. since your not wet sanding it or buffing it. even if you did with the pre mixed it would no longer be flat. the job looked really good and consistant better than the product that your asking about. do some research before spraying. its a real pain in the butt. good luck if you get it to work let me know how you got it to lay down right.
03-27-2012 03:18 PM
piercetdg
Has anyone used Xtreme Flat Finish?

The full name is Xtreme Original KlearKote Flat Finish 2.1 VOC
It's a clear coat that makes base coat, flat. I just sprayed it 4 hours ago on a 2 test panels. One I painted like I normally would and got a slightly blacker look then I'm used to. The other panel I did 50% overlap instead of 70 and raised my hand 2 inches. It looked really dry but the texture is too much, it was kind of flat though.

It seems like I'm using this wrong or does this go flatter over time?

Thank you.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:35 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.