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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 10:08 AM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr View Post
There are ready made tools for that purpose. Used them many times installing windows in heavy equipment. I also used go-jo on the rubber seals to make everything slide easy and be able to clean up with just water afterwards. Good luck.
Thanks, Go-jo huh? cool, thanks.

I went out to the garage and finished up the tool, and made two others. When I went to get the ball bearing at the hardware store I picked up three and figured I would make three tools as one may work better than the other.

Brian
Today 06:32 AM
deadbodyman Yesterday I got the front suspension back in and the truck bak on its wheels, I thought I'd show a pic of the rods I made to hold the control arms while the springs were out.
The rockers need to be 7"off the ground and as it turns out 2 4x4"s are 7" so I used some I had laying around to hold up the cab while I get it all welded up. first thing I did was to center the floor over the frame then center the cab over the frame. Looks like I have a 4" body drop....
Today I'll start making the pieces needed to weld up the main support braces ...should be a full day...
Yesterday 08:47 PM
adantessr
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
All I have done worth while is started making a tool for installing rubber set windows as per Timothale's instruction. I will need to weld a ball bearing on the end now.

Brian

There are ready made tools for that purpose. Used them many times installing windows in heavy equipment. I also used go-jo on the rubber seals to make everything slide easy and be able to clean up with just water afterwards. Good luck.
Yesterday 08:41 PM
adantessr [quote=Too Many Projects;2972890]
Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr View Post

Are you referring to longer steering arms to slow the travel ??
Exactly . Getting old. Could think of steering knuckle but not steering arms. :embarassed:
Yesterday 01:02 PM
MARTINSR
Quote:
Originally Posted by harposrepair View Post
Is that one of those new left-handed screw drivers for tightening screws in blind spots around corners where you can only see it in your minds eye? If it is I definitely have to get me one of those to go with my valve guide straighteners.
Nope, but I have made a few of those for special projects.

Brian
Yesterday 01:00 AM
harposrepair
Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
All I have done worth while is started making a tool for installing rubber set windows as per Timothale's instruction. I will need to weld a ball bearing on the end now.

Brian

Is that one of those new left-handed screw drivers for tightening screws in blind spots around corners where you can only see it in your minds eye? If it is I definitely have to get me one of those to go with my valve guide straighteners.
02-24-2015 09:37 PM
matts37chev
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post

If it's a Ford rack, most likely, and a GM pump, you may need to install a pressure reducer in the pump. The GM pumps pressure is too high for the Ford rack and results in super quick/sensitive steering and leaks...

I put one in my '38 and it helped a lot and no leaks. I don't remember a part number, but I got it from Speedway Motors. Do a search on their website for it. If you can't find it, call them. They are pretty good with the street rod stuff and know exactly what it is.
its an aftermarket AGR rack
when i looked into it before for the 37, i found a rebuild kit that will also reduce the pressure the pump makes.
now i just need to find it again, i might have shared it in the 37/38 thread
(thats a lot of thread to go through)
02-24-2015 08:49 PM
1971BB427 Still working on my buddy's '68 Camaro convertible. Today we began doing the work to swap the grille and headlights to the RS hidden headlamps. Holy cow! I'm almost in shock at what all needs to be done to adapt a standard '68 to an RS hidden headlamp system! The inner and outer fenders are actually different on an RS, so had to cut all the mounting tabs off the fenders at the headlight openings, to allow the RS trim to go in place. Then had to carefully measure and drill a large hole in the inner fender front extensions for the pivot linkage to go through to connect to the vacuum motors! Lots of other holes to drill for mounting braces, actuators, vacuum canister, etc.
We spent 7 hrs. on it, and probably have another day before it's all done and functioning!
02-24-2015 08:28 PM
MARTINSR All I have done worth while is started making a tool for installing rubber set windows as per Timothale's instruction. I will need to weld a ball bearing on the end now.

Brian
02-24-2015 07:42 PM
deadbodyman
Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr View Post
I was just thinking about the whole core support and bed needing lowered as well.
The bed is pretty EZ, its getting a wood floor with the stainless strips, so that cuts out a lot of welding, no cutting to get the old floor out because its bolted together.
Lowering the radiator support will be done by cutting off the frame horns and welding them back on in a lower position so the bumper and all else fits.
I hope ....
02-24-2015 07:37 PM
Too Many Projects [quote=adantessr;2972850]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post

If somehow you can increase the distance from the ball joint center line to where the rack connects to the steering knuckle , it will help. Don't know if that is possible with your set up though.
Are you referring to longer steering arms to slow the travel ??
02-24-2015 07:28 PM
adantessr [quote=Too Many Projects;2972826]
Quote:
Originally Posted by matts37chev View Post
Today I started on the front end under the 38.
Ball joints first, then I am going to start fixing all the leaks in the P/S system and while I am at it.....
figure out why it's so quick steering.
It's got a 20:1 rack listed on the receipt from Art Morrison, but it drives more like a 15:1 ratio.

If it's a Ford rack, most likely, and a GM pump, you may need to install a pressure reducer in the pump. The GM pumps pressure is too high for the Ford rack and results in super quick/sensitive steering and leaks...

I put one in my '38 and it helped a lot and no leaks. I don't remember a part number, but I got it from Speedway Motors. Do a search on their website for it. If you can't find it, call them. They are pretty good with the street rod stuff and know exactly what it is.
If somehow you can increase the distance from the ball joint center line to where the rack connects to the steering knuckle , it will help. Don't know if that is possible with your set up though.
02-24-2015 07:24 PM
adantessr
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Not sure yet but the rocker will be 7" off the ground. It has 2" dropped spindles with the shorter springs, so altogether 10 " of drop maybe. Heres a pic of how it will sit at ride height.. I took the springs out and let it down to where the owner wanted it, then made up some solid rods, bolted them where the shocks go, to hold it in place then measured it from the floor to the rocker.
Now I'm putting the suspension all back in ,springs and all, setting it on the ground ,then lowering the cab until its at 7 " ... Whats nice about a body drop (or channeling) is you can lower it over a completely stock suspension height without touching the suspension at all and get a nice lowered look. and stock ride...it low cost for a D.I.Y. but very labor intensive though ,I'm into it 9 hrs and guesstimate 30-40 hrs altogether with the bed and nose.
I was just thinking about the whole core support and bed needing lowered as well.
02-24-2015 07:24 PM
Too Many Projects [quote=matts37chev;2972482]Today I started on the front end under the 38.
Ball joints first, then I am going to start fixing all the leaks in the P/S system and while I am at it.....
figure out why it's so quick steering.
It's got a 20:1 rack listed on the receipt from Art Morrison, but it drives more like a 15:1 ratio.

If it's a Ford rack, most likely, and a GM pump, you may need to install a pressure reducer in the pump. The GM pumps pressure is too high for the Ford rack and results in super quick/sensitive steering and leaks...

I put one in my '38 and it helped a lot and no leaks. I don't remember a part number, but I got it from Speedway Motors. Do a search on their website for it. If you can't find it, call them. They are pretty good with the street rod stuff and know exactly what it is.
02-24-2015 07:16 PM
John long
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
That's a nice cozy lookin spot to work...sittin around the fire place, a little hot chocolate ,a little grinding. maybe a favorite TV show going....No wonder your getting so much done.. beats the heck out of cold cement
LOL, I hate it when grown men let their envy show..............

John

I bring all the things I am proud of upstairs so the wife will brag on me. She is my number one supporter.
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