|07-04-2012 08:58 AM|
Normally I'd say spray some water on it to get it to shine,but when we started using feather fill years ago,we wet sanded it and it soaked up water like a sponge and caused many problems ,I'm not sure about the slick sand but its basiclly the same product as far as I know...if it CAN be wet sanded you can wet it down to get a view of what it'll look like before you actually paint it...
I always do this with my urathane primers and epoxies...and if you were to wet sand it up to 800 it'll start to shine also....
since it needs a sealer anyway mabee it would be safer to go ahead and seal it with a few coats epoxy first then wet sand the epoxy up to 400-600-800.I'd hate to see you have any problems at this stage of the game and all you went through to get here...
|07-03-2012 11:41 PM|
|tech69||you're good to go then. The guide coat thing has gotten all of us at one time or another til we eat humble pie and realize it all needs to sand out evenly at the same time. So many noobs don't understand that.|
|07-03-2012 11:34 PM|
|Lizer||I never only guide coat it once. Usually three times unless I can't go down anymore, in which case I shoot more primer or if necessary, spot fill with putty. Generally by the third time it will all sand away at the same rate.|
|07-03-2012 11:29 PM|
|tech69||not trying to discourage you but when the guide coat in the low finally disappears it's still there. You'll usually have to re-guide coat it a few times to get it out to where you can't notice any distortions in reflections. If you re-guide coat it you'll probably notice it re-appear but not so defined. The more you guidecoat it the less it stands out til you finally guide coat it and all the guidecoat sands out evenly at the SAME TIME. THAT is when you know it's gone. Just trying to give you a heads up cause if you have all primer on it with no filler or metal poking out it's something I'd consider doing if I were you.|
|07-03-2012 10:48 PM|
an update on this too. I essentially now have the hood blocked and how I like it. I blocked and blocked the skim coating until much of it was starting to sand away. Worked on some of the high spots, then went to the Slick Sand and let it do it's job. Suffice to say, the Slick Sand fill is amazing, blocks nice if you start with 120 first, and really helped to transition the hood from a disaster zone to a piece that now feels nice under the hand with all the guide coat sanded away. It's not 100% perfect, and I know you guys could probably get it better, but in the end it came out really nice. While getting the hood perfect was important to me, being able to actually drive this car in my lifetime was also important to me.
Now I need to get something wet on it so I can see how it looks with a shiny surface for the real test.
|05-01-2012 12:38 AM|
|tech69||shu, want to grab a bodyman's attention out here you might have to light up something illegal.|
|04-29-2012 07:04 AM|
|deadbodyman||ILMAO, You too John...|
|04-28-2012 05:26 PM|
Funny you brought that up. I went through four years of the Navy as Long John. Now my friends just call me 40 Grit. Seems I am slightly abrasive.
|04-28-2012 05:16 PM|
I was actually thinking the same thing a few days ago John. I was actually thinking 'he's That old neighbor who comes over and helps you do everything.'
For that matter I wish I was closer to a lot of people on this forum.
You know what else had occurred to me? Everything is always asking you to list last name first, first name last. Which would make you Long John.
|04-28-2012 05:00 PM|
You are my kind of Deadbodyman. Wish I was closer to Josh. Free beer is wonderful. Drinking it in a buddy's shop is just plain great.
|04-28-2012 03:24 PM|
A 12 pac of beer is only about 10.00 it shouldnt be to much trouble to find a bodyman to befriend ,just get within 50 of a shop around lunch time and pop a few, make sure the breeze is blowing towards the shop....You remember Popeyes friend Whimpie that loved hamburgers???
Same thing...I do love an ice cold coors light after a rough day..
|04-28-2012 10:01 AM|
As a side note, I do take all your contributions to heart; I don't necessarily respond to each one to make the thread even longer than it is, but when I'm working these comments and posts are ALWAYS going my head. Sometimes I'll be thinking, 'now Tech69 was saying something about the sound when tapping it and this and that..' (it's like he had heard my mind because he came back to this thread and reposted that info in the same thread again). Then I have to come back and reread everything several times.
I think the entire body working process is going to be more painful for me having relocated to Michigan from Iowa and losing all my contacts. Back in Iowa I had my former body instructor of whom we were good friends and he'd swing by to look at an issue or help me with something, and I was good friends with another body guy in town who would also help me, loan me tools, and was even going to let me use his booth. And then on top of it we had a wonderful supply store who gave me the same discount my instructor got. Out here I now know nobody, and I called the one supply store I could find, and they didn't know what Slicksand was (they carry evercoat products).
Couple those frustrations with the fact that we just bough an acreage with 11 acres and enjoying all the costs and issues that go with owning one and making the desired improvements, all the while wanting to continue saving as much money as possible for a rainy day. Kind of puts buying the things I want to for this car at a lower priority and I've been well disciplined with it so far. Still sucks because it just draws the process out even longer. And it doesn't help that this Hook-it II sandpaper is $1.49 a strip!
|04-28-2012 12:30 AM|
I'll be looking for it, sounds like a great tip, thanks.
|04-28-2012 12:27 AM|
What's the secret/trick to skim coating
The nickname for a black rubber like material that comes in a rope (in a box) is called 'Ford Welding Rod', sorry I don't remember the brand name, but any good supply house like Whitney's will know what you talking about. We use it to quiet and firm up Jaguar aluminum hoods (bonnets). Some hoods we have worked on a felt like material that has rotted away or had to be removed. Ford Welding Rod came to the rescue. It takes years for it to dry out. Once you have removed the glob of stuff you are concerned with and knock down your high spot. Try a piece of 'Ford Welding Rod and push into the areas that need support. As mentioned you have to stabilize the metal otherwise you will have problems later on.
|04-27-2012 05:55 PM|
|deadbodyman||My brain always hits a dead zone when I try to remember the name of that stuff but when your asking about it at the supply store make double sure it wont expand OR contract as it drys also...|
|This thread has more than 15 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|