|05-07-2012 09:59 AM|
Ah well, stuff happens! Glad it's ok now.
|05-06-2012 05:06 PM|
|1971BB427||Glad you got it fixed! Been there too where I just didn't want to believe it was something simple, and troubleshot it until I finally found something simple.|
|05-06-2012 04:37 PM|
I put the new master cylinder on and bled the brakes and lo and behold, I have brakes. I must have gotten a ****ty master and it threw me off right from the start. I appreciate everyone that helped me out here, I have learnt a lot about brakes and troubleshooting them now. I just need to get the motor running now but that's getting close as well.
|04-27-2012 12:12 PM|
I'll check my booster and make sure I'm getting that much travel from it first ..
|04-27-2012 12:01 AM|
|enjenjo||Most master cylinders have 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" total travel.|
|04-26-2012 10:09 PM|
It's more beer for me if I don't have to share with her ...haha
|04-26-2012 03:52 PM|
|1971BB427||If your wife reacts the same as mine when I ask her to help bleed brakes, the pneumatic setup will be a real blessing! That's the main reason I got mine, but it's way easier than getting help too!|
|04-26-2012 03:40 PM|
Here's What I'm Doing
I did some research and figured my master to be a knockoff of the early to mid 70's corvettes. Went to NAPA and they are bringing one in from Edmonton, it should be here next Tuesday. It will cost me about $50, .....I've been *(&^ing around with the old one for eternity for $50....sheeesh. As well , I've ordered that pneumatic bleeder so I don't have to ask my wife to come out and help me do it again. I also like the idea that I can have a few PBR's while I'm doing it as well...Thanks guys, I'll keep you posted ..
|04-26-2012 08:35 AM|
I think you're right! I see that master and the smaller Corvette booster on a lot of cars!
I have this HF vacuum bleeder, and I like it because it's simple. The pneumatic looks like it would be even easier using a air compressor to pull fluid through!
|04-26-2012 01:48 AM|
|JeffB||This is the most commonly used master cylinder sold with most aftermarket booster combos,check out the picture http://www.ebay.com/itm/Master-Cylin...#ht_2118wt_948 For cars that are a pain to bleed this is a real lifesaver http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-f...der-92924.html This unit works so good when I did a complete brake job and dual master upgrade on my '54 Ford it was over 100+ outside and since I had a few PBR's to quench my thirst I forgot to bench bleed the master,so I hooked it up anyway and within 10 minutes total the system was all bled out and working great.|
|04-25-2012 08:56 PM|
Now that I know that , I should be able to find something that will work, man these resto's keep you thinking all the time, thinking and spending money but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel so I'm starting to get excited about getting it completed.
|04-25-2012 03:08 PM|
The differences aren't enough to not work. I'm running a '96 Subaru Legacy master that's operating GM metric discs and drums. I'm sure the Subaru brake are quite different, but it works great. I did add a proportioning valve at the rear brakes.
Just find a master and booster that is readily available and whichever you prefer, Ford or Chevy. You may want to take your's to a wrecking yard and compare the physical size to master/boosters until you find one that looks close, then go get a new setup at the parts store once you know a make, model, and year. That's how I ended up with the Subaru setup, but I took it off the car along with pedal assembly, and got master, booster, and pedal assembly for $50 total.
|04-25-2012 02:43 PM|
I appreciate the help, I took the master off and took it to NAPA to see if I could match it up and get a replacement but it appears to be an aftermarket master which doesn`t seem to match other GM or Ford masters. Is there a real difference in how much fluid different masters put out or am I going to be okay if I can find a master that matches up physically.
|04-25-2012 08:27 AM|
Normal travel varies from one master to another. How far your's travels is probably different than others. Most don't travel very far once the brake are bled, but may have 1" or a bit more travel when bench bled or before the system is firmed up.
When you bench bled the master did you get flow from the front and rear ports? If you did then the master is good.
If the master bled out good, then I'd question the proportional valve, and whether it is creating a bleeding issue. Sometimes you have to bleed the fronts first because the master is a dual and may be stopping the travel once the rear is bled and firm. I had the same issue with the master on my Austin gasser. It would allow me to bleed the rears, but then the master was firm and would not travel to allow front bleeding.
I ended up putting a vacuum pump on each wheel and vacuum bled all 4 wheels, then the system was fine.
|04-24-2012 09:08 PM|
Can anyone tell me how far the rod in the booster should travel when the brake peadl is pressed?
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