|01-23-2013 07:06 PM|
VR1 10-30 good zinc oil at your local parts store!
ive had great luck with Valvoline VR1 racing synthetic and eveyone else ive talked to that uses this oil also has never had a problem. Good zinc oils are out there but there pricey. additives are good too. just dont skimp. Plus you broke in the motor without a tach and if you tell comp that they wont help you.
Its a bummer things happened the way they did but take it as a learning experience and make the necessary changes for this next time. 383 in an awd s10? sounds like a lot of fun! Changing to a roller set up isnt a bad idea but very good motors are built everyday with flat tappet cams. The cams these days are incredible and you should have no problem hitting the rpm your motor is built for with a flat tappet cam, solid or hydroulic.
I hope things work out for you and im sure many others will be glad to help you through this. This site is filled with knowledge worth paying for!
|01-23-2013 06:51 PM|
Flattened Comp cam, am I SOL?
While we are on the subject of camshaft failure, you think it is another way to make more money? Comp has the Pro Plasma Nitriding Process maybe this is what they would like to sell everyone buying a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft. I read that the addition of nitriding may require a cam core upgrade so this would be more money! It is something to think about.
|01-23-2013 11:47 AM|
Best advice I can offer is use a retro roller kit in anything but a stock truck engine rebuild. Second best advice is if you just gotta have one of these fast ramp flat tappet cams along with it, put in the thrust snubber button used for old fashion roller cams in these early blocks, these at least relieve the lobe/lifter interface (and the distributor gear) of having to keep a preload on the timing gear to block thrust faces. A little less for the lobe and lifter to do and it positively reduces and lateral excursions of the cam to .005 inch or a bit less so there isn't any (much) side to side rubbing of the lifter face against the lobe allowing it to spin in its bore without being dragged or pushed side to side at the same time.
|01-22-2013 10:16 PM|
Before you say anything, I know this post is a months old. I have had numerous failures with Compcams camshafts in the last 10 years, I no longer use them. They always have some excuse not to warranty anything. I have had real good luck with Isky and Howards brand cams. I do not believe the ZDDP excuse. If this was true, small four stoke engine camshafts (Briggs& Stratton, Honda, Yamaha, Etc) would also be having record number of failures, but this is not the case. Yes, there is the arguement that these small engines do not have high valve spring pressures but neither do most mild SBC and BBC rebuilds. You be the judge, I know what my verdict is, I will never use Compcams products again.
|05-14-2012 08:17 PM|
|Mojo56||NEVER EVER use any oil rated SM with any flat tappet cam... the detergent additives in the oil will remove the built up phosphorus on the engine parts and will kill the cam.|
|05-10-2012 06:54 AM|
|CNC BLOCKS NE||Another big problem is cam companies sometimes are not using good cam cores. On alll my HYD and solid lifter cams I have always used the P-55 cam core. Its a harder cam core then the standard cam cores!!|
|05-09-2012 07:10 PM|
Well, not only did it ruin all my bearings, turns out my crank is not saveable. So, I'm out the cost of a new one of those, plus balancing. Crap.
At least I managed to find a fresh stock 350 for $300. Gonna go ahead and stick that in my truck while I debate whether or not I am suited to building complete performance engines.
Oh, and it occurred to me after the fact to plug the bypass. Next time, if there is one.
Thanks for the info on the oil though, I'll make sure to get a roller cam engine next time.
And Comp offered me a discount on a new cam and lifters, which I probably won't be taking.
|05-09-2012 11:28 AM|
The Howards 110041 recommended by F-bird'88 is available in the new Max Certified line by Howards, cam/lifter kits guaranteed for 5 years even if you screw up, something to consider.
Howards MC110041 cam/lifter kit $179.95 at Summit
|05-09-2012 09:15 AM|
|CNC BLOCKS NE||
S-3 15/40 CENPECO oil has 1582 PPM of zinc.
There 20/50 has 2300 PPM of zinc.
|05-09-2012 09:00 AM|
|ap72||If I was comp id say you're sol but offer you a discount on a new cam. Its more than likely not their fault and racing is a hobby where the consumer assumes the risk. Offering a discount would be good customer service though.|
|05-09-2012 08:45 AM|
As a side note here. Uncle Sam mandated that over the road diesel trucks run catalytic converters a few years ago. Hence, all the diesel oils thought to be high in ZDDP are not anymore. I believe this a very serious issue and think that even people who have flat tappet cams that are broken in need to seriously consider a quality ZDDP additive.
|05-09-2012 06:06 AM|
another example of a xtreme cam going flat. Voodoos are the same.
Just use an old school 260H or 268H (high energy compcam) and it will live a long happy life. Maybe not make as much power as the XE at first, but XE's don't make much power with a few flat lobes and chewed up engine bearings.
This is the reason I always recommend starting out with a complete 96 to 2000 350 vortec engine with factory roller cam and vortec heads.
Make sure to check the lifter bore clearance. I had a BBC that ate cams and it was from extra tight lifter bores. Roller lifters require even more clearance than a regular flat tappet lifter. 0.001 to 0.0015" for a flat tappet and 0.0015 to a 0.002" for a roller lifter.
|05-09-2012 06:02 AM|
|CNC BLOCKS NE||
|05-08-2012 09:52 PM|
|Catfish11||dont think you have a warranty case since you did not use the whole kit with the recommended springs. I went through 2 cams before I got it to work with the whole kit.|
|05-08-2012 09:41 PM|
I admire your positive attitude. Still don't envy you though.
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