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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-10-2012 05:48 PM
59RAMBLERSUPERWAGON
Quote:
Originally Posted by boothboy View Post
I don't suppose you considered just turning the truck upside down and shaking the b'jesus out of it?
Just trying to help.
BB
See I learn something new every day, I thought it was called a spark plug shield, but its actually called a b'Jesus! Thanks boothboy!
09-10-2012 07:53 PM
Richiehd
Quote:
Originally Posted by abeidaho View Post
I do them and the best thing to do is run a really good fuel cleaner thru before and they come right out. Terra clean works the best.
Terra Clean, who makes that? never heard of it. I have SeaFoam available by me, same thing?
09-10-2012 08:31 AM
monster76 If you never want to have that problem again every 25-30k pull them out and re install, i have the extractor from snap on it works great but this little tip will work wonders for you in the long run
07-25-2012 09:07 PM
abeidaho
ford spark plugs

I do them and the best thing to do is run a really good fuel cleaner thru before and they come right out. Terra clean works the best.
05-20-2012 07:18 AM
kool kat
atf/acetone

Im mixing some up today!
I guessing you cant put it in a plastic container though...
05-20-2012 06:59 AM
GMCTRUCKS
Make up a batch of this.

Penetrating Oils Compared

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results!

*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.*

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ............. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench .. 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.*
05-20-2012 05:55 AM
Richiehd
Quote:
Originally Posted by boatbob2
My Buddy, just had the plugs changed in his Ford pickup,had to jack up cab,the bill was $1600.00,had to heli-coil every plug hole,fords better idea.
The butcher that did that would have done better to follow the proper removal procedure. ie: start with a cold motor
05-19-2012 08:28 PM
Formulajim Point well taken. Jim
05-19-2012 03:26 PM
Blazin72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Formulajim
And you can easily get to things on chev and dodges. Fords were designed to be quickly assembled on the line and are a nightmare to work on.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Formulajim
I've owned many fords. It's the new junk that isn't engineered to be accessible to work on.
Most vehicles have these problems in one area or another. GMs and Dodges have their pain in the rear, accessibility issues too. In order to change the heater core on a 99-07 Silverado you have to remove the entire dash from the firewall.

Ever change a power steering pressure line on a Honda Prelude? It's about six feet long and wraps (the long way) around the engine and down to the power steering rack that is behind and below the engine.

Replace the battery on a PT Cruiser? It's underneath the intake manifold plenum. If it needs to be jumped all you get are two little posts peeking up from underneath.

I can just imagine old timers in the 1950s complaining about the "complexity" of the (then) new 12v electric systems...

Maybe old timers from the turn of the 1900s complaining about them new fangled horseless carriages...
05-19-2012 02:24 PM
Formulajim I've owned many fords. It's the new junk that isn't engineered to be accessible to work on.
05-14-2012 12:36 PM
Mojo56 I guess all the Chevy guys are clinging to their Vegas, Corvairs and Olds diesels... GM has never made and crap have they?
05-10-2012 04:01 AM
chucksgarage
fastest fix on ford plugs

sell it an buy a chevy
or like the old saying goes... its a quart low on water in the intake.
you can try this first an all these know it alls will say dont do it, but it works.
remove top of air cleaner, start engine then hold throttle from carb or throttle body at about 3500 rpm or more but not wound tight.
very very slowly poor water into intake just enough to bog engine but not stall it.
this instantly removes all carbon buildup from combustion chamber, valves,plugs, etc. also can help with cheap gas ping.
ps: on injected engines, the overly oxygenated exhaust will cause o2 sensor to enrichen engine for a short time ensuring no burnt valves. on carbs just poor a capfull of marvel oil down intake after to coat valves.
05-09-2012 07:31 PM
Formulajim I can and have changed the plugs in my 04 Chevy SS in about 20 mins. They looked as good as the new ones only a little brown. And you can easily get to things on chev and dodges. Fords were designed to be quickly assembled on the line and are a nightmare to work on. I know this as I work for a boss who is a ford guy and all our trucks are fords. ( fleet mechanic). This week a clutch, an automatic trans fail. A coil and a computer water temp sender failure. Job security those fords. The planetary sets in the 99 v-10 had alum pins and I replaced all parts with aftermarket beefy stuff. Planetarys with six gears instead of four and steel pins not alum. Titanium sun shells better everything. The factory stuff is poor and the fact that the overdrive tranys revert to overdrive every time you start the truck. The tranys would last a lot longer if overdrive was only used on the freeway. Also non loaded trucks do a lot better. If you load them heavy like we do at work they can't take it.
05-08-2012 06:36 PM
ogre my neighbor just paid $800 to change his plugs on his f150 3 valve
tell your neighbor to save his receipt there is currently a class action suit on this he may be able to recoup his money.
ford really messed up on that long electrode plug and a 90k plug replacement policy.
now that the 3v mod motors are getting 100k miles on them this has reared it's ugly head.
anyone out there with 50k miles on a mod motor would be wise to change the plugs now.

the correct method is cold motor, loosen 1/2 turn, spray a little carb cleaner, next day loosen 1/2 turn, bit o carb cleaner and remove
careful with the carb cleaner, takes 8 oz to hydrolock a 3v motor
05-08-2012 12:35 PM
Blazin72
Quote:
Originally Posted by Formulajim
Ford builds the cheapest junk with the cheapest parts money can buy!
Please elaborate. GM and Chrysler do the same thing.

Quote:
The coils go out every other week.
Interesting. I've had modular Fords for several years now without any issues. Again, please elaborate.
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