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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-12-2012 07:36 AM
LARRY BOYD
Brake booster bracket

Call Bud Riser at Tuff Stuff 800-331 6562. He can furnish you with a direct bolt on setup,chrome or plain.He is a good friend and has helped me out more than once over the years.Use my name if you like.
07-10-2012 08:18 AM
david-b Wanted to give the update here.

After reading all this and doing more research, it seemed to me the booster was bad. I drove it around and was always needing way too much pressure in order to get it to stop. Even after talking with other rodders at shows, they said the smaller booster will be more difficult, but shouldn't be as bad as mine was.

Got in touch with the company I got the booster from and they said to send it back for an exchange. Finally got the new one and installed last night and it works great. Drove up the driveway and nearly went through the window. Stops on a dime! Takes very little pressure and the pedal feels like it should.

Thanks to everyone for their help and suggestions.
05-30-2012 09:42 PM
cobalt327 You can also check the booster by pumping the brake pedal a few times w/the engine off, then while holding moderate pressure on the brake pedal, start the engine. The pedal should drop some.
05-30-2012 09:19 PM
PatM Also, you should have a check valve in the booster vacuum line.
PatM
05-30-2012 06:20 PM
cobalt327
Quote:
Originally Posted by david-b
Question is, does the canister and the booster hold more vac than the motor makes? For example, if motor is putting out -10, the booster/canister won't be over -10?
If the vacuum canister you have is a reservoir (not a vacuum pump), it will hold whatever vacuum the engine makes. This can be somewhat more than what you generally see during steady state driving or idling, but not by a whole lot. For instance, if you were to decelerate while downshifting, the engine will make more vacuum than it will steady state. But that really cannot be depended on because you won't always have that "extra" vacuum available, like when driving in traffic, etc.
05-30-2012 02:27 PM
1971BB427 No, masters should be great right from the start, and not change as they age. If you only have 10" of vacuum that might be part of the issue. That's pretty minimal to run vacuum brake boosters.
05-30-2012 11:07 AM
david-b
Follow up

Just got a follow up to this. I've adjusted the position of the pedal numerous times, tried playing with the master, and even tried adding a little extension on the push rods going into the master. I've got it pretty good, but it still requires a lot of force for the car to really stop. I can't get the rod in any further into the booster off the pedal, and the pushrod is right up on the plate in the master without the brakes dragging. I still can't slam on the brakes without using both feet.

Last option I have to try is to hook up the extra vac canister. Question is, does the canister and the booster hold more vac than the motor makes? For example, if motor is putting out -10, the booster/canister won't be over -10?

And secondly, does it take time for the masters to "break-in"? Is it going to get "softer" with some miles? Only put about 4 miles on it so far, so still really new.

Thanks.
05-20-2012 09:26 PM
david-b
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427
I agree. Check the location of the operating rod on the brake pedal attachment. Make ure if there are two holes that it's closest to the pivot point. Also check your vacuum connection, and your vacuum with a gauge to ensure you've got no leaks and a good connnection.
Vacuum is 100% fine. Line is brand new coming off a new carb spacer and new PVC (the brake booster equivalent, not sure what the official name is) on the booster.

The booster came with a longer piston option, but seemed a little too long for the booster/cylinder setup. Thinking it over, it seems that the piston would already be putting a load on the master, which may make for quicker stopping. Or is that wrong?

I have a spare vac canister not in the car because with the larger cam, I was told I was going to need it. Never had too much of a problem with the stocker booster and vac unless the idle dropped really low. I've since changed out the torque converter and have had no issues with that.

I've got the brake pedal raised up some, because the rod going to the pedal was a little long. Have the 2 holes lined up and sitting on the pedal, and the shaft that the pedal sits on itself (connecting it to beneath the dash) is actually pushing the rod in to as you step on the brake. Thought that worked out well when installing.

I do appreciate the help and responses. Really hope I can get this back to normal before this coming weekend. Thanks everyone.
05-20-2012 04:34 PM
1971BB427 I agree. Check the location of the operating rod on the brake pedal attachment. Make ure if there are two holes that it's closest to the pivot point. Also check your vacuum connection, and your vacuum with a gauge to ensure you've got no leaks and a good connnection.
05-19-2012 07:14 PM
cobalt327 Air in the brake system causes a spongy pedal because air compresses where brake fluid doesn't. If the pedal is hard and takes a lot of effort, you might need more assist. Or the pedal ratio can be changed or use a smaller master cylinder bore. That will decrease effort but increase pedal travel. It's a balancing act.
05-19-2012 09:32 AM
david-b
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427
Should be fine after that. No reason to bench bleed it now that it's been in place on the car. Just be sure to bleed it enough to get any air pockets that are near the master all the way out the end of the system.
So yesterday we bled the brakes with really no problems. All new fluid in the lines, all nice and clear. Taking it for a drive, the brakes are there, but not where they were. I don't know if smaller booster is supposed to affect it this much. The car does stop, but really have to push super hard and even then it's not slamming on the brakes like it used to. Any ideas on this? And I'm 100% sure no bubbles in the lines. 3 big bottles of brake fluid and with a vac pump... was done right.
05-18-2012 01:00 PM
1971BB427 Should be fine after that. No reason to bench bleed it now that it's been in place on the car. Just be sure to bleed it enough to get any air pockets that are near the master all the way out the end of the system.
05-18-2012 11:12 AM
david-b Thanks for the link. Mine didn't come with any kind of bleeder kit. That would have been easier if it did.

My buddy has a vacuum bleeder and we're going to do them all tonight.
05-18-2012 10:30 AM
1971BB427 Here's a link I just Googled:
http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixit...ench-bleed.htm

You usually get the bench bleed fittings and hoses with a new master, but seems they've gone cheap now and don't provide them. Most any parts store will have them.
05-18-2012 09:28 AM
david-b
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1971BB427
Did you bench bleed the brake master before installing it? If you did, then you can often avoid bleeding the whole system, but if your brakes are "soft" then you need to not only bleed the calipers, but the whole system now.
I'm going to assume I didn't considering I have no idea what bench bleeding is. Damnit. For future reference, got a link to how to do that?
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